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2,547 Posts
Sounds like you made a great score.
I would add, that vintage does not have a riving knife, though I believe there was a kit to add one depending on model. You can also make ZCIs with short splitters close to the slot. Personally, I will never use a table saw without a riving knife or at minimum, a splitter within an inch of the blade. Direct personal experience more than once. I am lucky to have escaped serious injury. They were mandated in 2007, so your saw is one version back.
You are correct you may want to get some decent V-belts. Chinese V belts are usually stiff, differ in length, and have bumpy splices. A set of Gates,( my first choice) Goodyear, Contenitial, or even Dayco run smoother. AX series help with the too small for spec arbor sheave all saws use and are the correct size and pitch, usually. Sometimes the size is a bit odd. Chinese tools seem to have odd size belts and they are not always as marked. D&D power has the odd sizes.
US made belts made a big difference on my Harvey TS, Ridgid jointer, and my old Delta drill press. My band saw uses a modern multi-rib belt which are superior in about every way. With new belts, you should feel even tension on all of them and when running visually the flutter willl be the same. If not, the length differs and at least the longer is not transmitting power. Do pay attention to the two different size methods. Outside vs "running" length. Metric vs Imperial measurement differ between running length and outer length. Not only does width differ, the V angle differs, so look at belt specs in detail. I was amazed how complicated it really is.
I would add, that vintage does not have a riving knife, though I believe there was a kit to add one depending on model. You can also make ZCIs with short splitters close to the slot. Personally, I will never use a table saw without a riving knife or at minimum, a splitter within an inch of the blade. Direct personal experience more than once. I am lucky to have escaped serious injury. They were mandated in 2007, so your saw is one version back.
You are correct you may want to get some decent V-belts. Chinese V belts are usually stiff, differ in length, and have bumpy splices. A set of Gates,( my first choice) Goodyear, Contenitial, or even Dayco run smoother. AX series help with the too small for spec arbor sheave all saws use and are the correct size and pitch, usually. Sometimes the size is a bit odd. Chinese tools seem to have odd size belts and they are not always as marked. D&D power has the odd sizes.
US made belts made a big difference on my Harvey TS, Ridgid jointer, and my old Delta drill press. My band saw uses a modern multi-rib belt which are superior in about every way. With new belts, you should feel even tension on all of them and when running visually the flutter willl be the same. If not, the length differs and at least the longer is not transmitting power. Do pay attention to the two different size methods. Outside vs "running" length. Metric vs Imperial measurement differ between running length and outer length. Not only does width differ, the V angle differs, so look at belt specs in detail. I was amazed how complicated it really is.
