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Just bought a Grizzly G0691 based in part on a couple of reviews I saw here.

Just put it together. It's burning everything. Oak, maple, beech. It's even burning PLYWOOD AND MELAMINE with a Frued Fusion 40 tooth! The Frued is the only full kerf blade I have. But the blade doesn't matter. Even a 24 tooth thin kerf blade burns 3/4 oak a bit.

I tried a ripping piece of 8/4 oak and it was black, thought I was going to start a fire. The board was only a foot long. It it had been longer I would have stopped the cut. The arbor nut and washer were hot to the touch. I hope I didn't ruin the blade.

I've adjusted the fence to within an inch of it's life. Tried parallel - it burns. Tried opening the rear a couple of hundredths - it burned.

Tried it with and without the riving knife thinking alignment may be the problem. No difference. Tried in on two different 220 circuits. No difference. Tried tightening the belts, no difference.

All I've got a huge pile of burned wood.

One success. The 24 tooth thin kerf blade will cut plywood without burning.

The saw can't be that bad. Any ideas?
 

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run the saw without cutting anything ,
then see if things are still hot .
check if the blade is parallel with the miter slot ,
using the same tooth at front , then at back.
your table may be twisted slightly .
and the dumb question ,
are the teeth of your blade facing you on top ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm very close on the parallelism, no more than a hundredth off. Crosscuts with the miter gauge don't exhibit the same burning. I ran it for several minutes before I ever put a blade on. The motor seems to be running fine, it's not overheating or making any sort of unusual sound. There's a bit more vibration than I thought there would be on a saw of this weight. The nickle falls over on start up but if you stand a nickle after start up and make a cut and turn it off the nickle stays standing. It's on a mobile base so that could be aggravating the start up vibration. I haven't checked arbor runout but there can't be much. There's no chip out or tear out on anything. Melamine and plywood edges are fine both ripping and crosscutting The only problem is the excessive burning.
 

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there was a guy here the other day ,it turned out his blade was bent ,
check from fixed point and rotate blade completely .
another guy had a slightly bent shaft .
is the saw new , or used ?
if new you may have to get with manufacturing .
if used same thing , but their teck could help .
grizzly is good that way .
maybe you need a better blade , or to have yours sharpened .
 

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If you're not getting burning on crosscuts too, then it's likely the fence alignment. The Fusion has a dual side grind and very low side clearance for a highly polished edge, which can more easily lead to burning if something's off, but if a decent 24T blade is burning 3/4" material, it's likely that something is causing some pinching. Raising the blade a little can reduce burning but it sounds to me like you're issue is way beyond blade height. Check the whole alignment over again. Also be sure the fence is straight on the cut side, not just aligned. Many manufacturers suggest toeing the fence out by just a couple of thousandths to ensure that it's not toeing in. The splitter needs to be aligned well with the blade if installed. Be sure the blade is clean, and that your feed rate isn't too slow.
 

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Frank, when you said the parallelism was only .001 out, what were you referring to? You need the blade, miter slot, and fence to all be dead on parallel, or only .001 off. It your parallel to the slot then the miter gauge will work without burning, but it the fence is slightly off, then it will burn while ripping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The miter slot is pretty close to dead on to the blade and the fence is very close as well. I've worked the fence all the way through parallel from out in one direction through parallel to out in the other direction. Making small changes to the setting screw and it burns every time.

The deal is this saw is burning as badly or worse than my old Craftsman job site that I got for $200 25 years ago using the same blades. And you can see the blade wobble on that old 1hp saw. How "tuned" do you think a saw like that can be possibly be? Yet it cuts as well as this brand new 3 horse cabinet saw, and I use the term "cabinet saw" loosely I admit. At least that's what the literature called it. It doesn't seem to have much more power than a 1 horse, 25 year old Craftsman. I've been trying to convince myself that its me but from the shudder on startup to the burning it's looking more and more like the Chinamen were having a bad day.
 

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When aligning a saw's rip fence, you usually check the fence at the "front" of the saw and the "back of the saw. Maybe the fence isn't truly straight- bowed in the middle. If the fence bows towards the blade, it might cause this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The fence is not flat. It's at least a 64th out in the middle. from the ends. The arc of the very slight curve is such that I get the same distance reading at the front and back of the blade. That could explain the burning. It's going to be a bear to shim.

Also I found the source of the startup shudder. The sector and the worm gear for blade elevation have at least an 1/8" of an inch of play. When you push the start button the motor it bounces. You can grab the motor and move it about an 1/8th, maybe more. If you wiggle it the arbor will actually drop. The worm gear will spin. You can see the hand wheel turn. This is not play at the motor mount. That is tightened down. It's slop between worm and sector.

It seems weird to me. Is it normal to have that much slop? The same thing is evident on the tilt gears. The worm and sector are not even close to snug. Is that normal? My job site saw doesn't have anywhere near that much movement, almost none at all. It's like this saw is depending completely on the weight of the motor to keep the blade in place. Is that the way it is with cabinet saws?

Time to call tech support. I've heard they are very good a Grizzly. They'll fix me up.
 

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Frank - Don't the fence face just attach with screws? I'd think a little tape in a couple of strategic places would do the trick.

Dunno about the gearing and motor mount on that saw. Hopefully the Griz Kids will fix you up.
 

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Did you remove the shipping brace? Make sure you follow the direction of turn and put your blade on with the teeth facing the front of the saw…the side with the grizzly plaque and the height adjustment wheel.

You might want to check your voltage too - even if you tried different circuits, I would check both with an ampmeter…if the saw does not get enough amperage….it will not turn at the proper rpm's….I had a friend that found out his 220 circuit to the garage had a short and was not delivering proper amperage. They lost a couple driers from this….and when he tried to use it for a saw he got the blade stuck in the wood he was cutting….and of course the blade was ruined from the heat.

My new G0691 did fine when I first tried it….it cut through some very hard Higuerilla without a hitch…whereas my bandsaw was having a heck of a time going through that stuff (of course the piece on the bandsaw was much thicker).

I have to agree with you on the Grizzly folks…every question/problem I have had has been handled by them quickly and completely….I hope they can keep that up as they grow in popularity (and get busier)...for now I rate them as excellent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
reggiek,

Do you have slop between the worm and sector in the gears on your saw? Does the motor bounce when you turn it on?

Don't have an amp meter but the voltage is fine. I'll see if I can get hold of one. That would be an interesting test.
 

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FrankS, the motor starts up very smoothly on mine…..I could do the dime test on this one I think. The only slightest amount of vibration is the blade guard (and that is from the air moving around the blade). I opened the motor door and listened in there while I started it…and the same thing - no vibration at all (the only sound is the motor fan turbines whistling).

I went in and tightened every bolt when I unpacked it and prior to doing the set up…(its part of the problem of being a perfectionist). I would be suprised if anything is loose in there…although the gear mesh is not something I can control….

I just ripped a few 2X6's I needed to cut and the blade is only very slightly warm…so something wrong must be going on with that one you have? I think it is time to get the Grizzly folks involved.
 

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You said that parallism is no more than "a hundreth" off. "A hundreth" (0.01) is not good enough. With the types of blades you are using it needs to be within 5 thousands (0.005). Anythiing more will cause the type of burning you are experiencing.
 

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To get burning and the blade teeth are facing the correct way, it's the wood is getting pressed into the side of the blade.. If the crosscut is not doing that then that would show that the slot is parallel to the blade.

It comes down to the fence pressing the wood into the blade. I think you stated that you've adjusted the fence and the burning contuinues. If you tip the fence away from the blade at the back, you shold get burning on the left side of the blade. If the fence is tighter at the back then the burning should be on the right side of the blade.

Somewhere in between those two extremes should be a happy medium.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
reggiek,

Trade you saws. You'd have a lot of fun with this one. Not surprising that I'd get the lemon. Do me a favor. With the saw turned off, open the side door, grab the motor and try to push it toward the back of the saw. If there is any play between the worm gear and the teeth on the sector you will be able to move the motor. I can move mine quite a bit. Now with the door open turn on the saw and see if the motor moves at all. Mine bounces up and down and comes to rest. Because I have this slop in my trunnion gears belt tension on my saw is solely a matter of the weight of the motor.
 
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