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1,216 Posts
Calling all LJs,

For once I am asking for advise before plunging into something. I bought an older Craftsman 113 series TS. This series was made by Emerson Electric up to 1998 and near identical to Rigid TS2424 sold by HD right afterwards. Owners manuals of the two saws compare very closely and it is obvious that some of the graphics were reused.

It has the Craftsman upgraded fence, Align-a-rip. It is: left tilt, belt drive, 3,450 rpm, cast iron table, and cast iron wings. Wings are the lattice type.

I have never owned or used a TS this size before. I had a "hobby" direct drive crapsman up to this TS.

Some dimensions:
> Table is 20" wide by 27" deep.
> Wings are 12" wide by 27" deep.
> Arbor is 18" rearward with blade retracted and 18 1/2" at blade above table 1 3/4". Blade is 14 1/2" from front of table and 4 3/4" from rear of table.
> Motor hangs out the rear 8 1/2"
> Fence rails are 70" front, 60" rear and 54" of travel

My idea is to reconfigure the TS as follows;
> Move fence rails to the right so they are flush with left cast iron wing. That leaves me 21" of table to the left of blade at 90 degrees and 37" blade to fence on the right.
> Add a 20" router table to the right side of TS (it will be 27" wide)

I plan to build several crosscut sleds. Right now the arbor is rearward in the table and I want to have the same sled travel before the blade contact and after the blade contact. Current plan is to have 24 1/2" on each side of blade contact. So I am considering the following;
> Add semi-permanent 17" outfeed table to rear with miter slots to match the main table. There needs to be a 2 1/4" gap for the fence travel.
> Add a removable 10" infeed table to front with miter slots to match the main table. This has to be removable so the fence can travel across the front of the main table.

I am thinking of using four cabinets, one for the main saw and two wings, second for the router table, third for the permanent rear outfeed table and forth for the removable front infeed table. The main saw and router table cabinets will be permanently attached. Infeed and outfeed cabinets will have alignment features with toggles to clamp them to the main cabinet. All cabinets need to be on wheels so I can move it as needed in my garage. Advise on wheels is appreciated.

I am planning on using 3/4" MDO for the cabinets. Material quality and price seem to make that good for the application.

I have no plans to cut 4' x 8' sheets of material. My planer is 13" Rigid, so ripping wider than that isn't necessary.

So, let me know what else I haven't considered both in use and upgrading. Don't recommend a new fence as my budget is very limited.


(I will try to figure out how to attach my pictures later. I refuse to use the online picture sharing sites due to the time I spend cleaning family computers from "optional" clingons and inappropriate emails after the fact on body part enhancing products regardless of the right gender or not.)

8,537 Posts
Sounds like a plan Steve. Adding a decent blade and getting the alignment spot on are among the most significant factors in performance. Have fun.

1,157 Posts
I like the idea of moving the fence. I never did understand the rationale in cutting equally on both sides of the blade. Seems to me you can always flip the stock 180 degrees to get extended width. Maybe for dados? At any rate, I have the Ridgid AC1036 on my old Craftsman; 12" to left, 36"+ to right. Has worked well for me.

Do you really need 10" infeed table? Outfeed is obvious for stability and because the saw blade is so far back on the table, but for the infeed, I just made my sled wider. If I need any more, I end up with issues trying to keep it against the fence for accurate alignment.

I second Knotscott; decent blade and good alignment is key to getting good cuts.
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