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Hey yall, I am new to LJ, but not so new to woodwork. I am ccurrently in need of a table saw, and im on a budget. I have been browsing CL looking at used saws. I recently came across this one, but need some advice.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/4685438887.html

Does this saw look serviceable? If I were to buy this saw, what would I need to check. If there were any problems with this saw, what would they most likely be, and how easy would they be to fix. I can fix most anything, just need some guidance on where to start.
 

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I'm not familiar with the kansas market, but that's about $75 more than those saws typically list for around my area (southern tier NY). Looks like you might want to upgrade the fence on that soon after you start using it. Also, I think that has a universal motor so it will probably be quite loud. I think for $200 you could do better.

Did that guy apply an instagram filter to his table saw photo???

Here's another 34-670 from the Kansas CL for $110
 

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Agree with Ed on almost all counts. That is high for the market, and especially for a direct drive saw. You should be able to find a good belt drive saw for that price or less.

Glancing at the recent CL listings in KC this one would probably be the one I'd target. A little higher, but you could offer in the 250 range. With the Hercu-lift base and Shop Fox fence (Biesemeyer clone) you wouldn't have to worry about an upgrade there. The fence itself is worth $200.

For a real budget saver this saw might have possibilities. It would need a fence upgrade eventually, but could probably be used as is for now.

What do you need to check? Make sure the blade height and tilt function smoothly. If they don't, look to see if it is a bent shaft or if the threaded rods are just caked with sawdust. That can frequently be a bargaining point. Operate the fence to be sure it locks down tight. Check that the blade spins true and the motor works. Some of those can be fixed/adjusted, but if they aren't working correctly, it can be an indication that the saw wasn't taken care of and there may be other issues.
 

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IIRC, the 34-670 is a compact saw with a direct drive universal motor. $200 is pretty steep IMO. There's not a lot of great used deals in your area from what I could see, but there's an Emerson Craftsman contractor saw with an upgraded fence for $350….it has a lot more potential, mass, torque, table space, and a better fence than the Delta IMO. If you could get them down closer to $250 it'd be a pretty nice deal. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/4676145015.html

+1 on the saw JayT linked to. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/4682616408.html

The ABCs of Table Saws
 

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Ed, take a look at the second pic, the fence is on backwards.

I saw that one and also thought it looked interesting, but since it's a 9in saw, don't think I would recommend it for most users. It'd be a cool restoration project, though. Very art deco-ish.
 

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Good call, JayT. I initially thought that, but then convinced myself it wasn't, and that those were tensioning knobs on the back. Looking again though, I see where there are blade marks on the fence, which would only line up if you turned the fence back around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have heeded the advice of the professionals here and think I may move on from the delta. In an ideal world I would spring for the new Ridgid table saw, but just cant justify that at this time. I am going to look at a few of the craftsman saws that were posted, and possibly make an offer on one by mid week. Thanks all for the advice.
 

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In an ideal world I would spring for the new Ridgid table saw, but just cant justify that at this time.

if you do spring for the 4512, check it, out of the box, for the "blade shift with changing blade elevation issue" prior to fully assembling the saw.
 

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I have the Rigid TS3650. Mine's about 2 years old now and I'm pretty happy with it, though in my dream shop, it will be replaced with a SawStop cabinet saw. The only knock I've got on the TS3650 is the arbor they shipped with mine has a groove cut into the threads just past the 1/8" point, which is precisely where your first chipper sits if you use a dado head. That means that th first chipper cut will be "high" (deeper) than the rest of the cut. One of my applications is to use the Freud Box-Joint two-blade system, so to handle this problem I bought two CMT stabilizers to space my blades out 1/4", just past this groove, but of course that means I can't use a 3/4" stack anymore since the arbor isn't long enough to accommodate the spacers plus 3/4" of dado-but it works fine for my box-joint blades. I've heard that Rigid has sent new arbors to some people who complained. I usually use a router to cut dados for shelving, so I mostly just live with (or use a shoulder plane on) the non-uniform bottom if I cut them on the TS. All that said, I've got no other complaints about this saw. Woodline and a few other places sell ZC inserts for this saw made from HDPE if you don't want to make them yourself.
 
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