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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
I'll be curous to see how you ulike the delta fence on it.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Looks like that old saw still has a lot of life in it. Thanks for the tip on th e casters…...my next project.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
That blade up so high is scary even from afar.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
I am confident you will like that fence on that saw - it made a world of improvement on mine. But, fyi: get ready for more modding of your saw to use it.
It doesn't appear as though you have the blade guard installed, but I wonder if you have a 1/2×5 bar sticking out the back for the safety pieces to be mounted to. That was directly in my way for my fence. The blade guard and accessories were no where to be found online for my saw, so a hacksaw fixed the problem. You will likely also find the holes not lined up.
 
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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Congrats on your new table saw, I know you will like you new fence.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
cool!

but you never did say what the new TS cost - I'm wondering what their price range is.

and what condition was it in when you got it in terms of alignment and surface rust etc. How are you finding those finger-catching side extensions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
I should have mentioned in the write up (it was late and I was half asleep writing it) that the saw did not come with the standard blade guard or any of the mounting hardware. I've priced replacements on ebay, but the fence seemed to be a more pressing concern for me since the stock fence is crap. That being said, I'm not even sure I want the default guard. I'm thinking more along the lines of something I saw in Shop Notes a while back which would attach to the fence system rather than the back of the saw.

Aaron, I paid $150 for mine and I think I got a steal. The gent that sold it to me already have two others in his modest garage workshop and really wanted to get this out. It came is pretty good condition - no major rust. I had to scrap a small amount of wood glue from one part, but otherwise it setup well. The "finger-catching" extensions aren't a problem at all. In fact, they work well as a place to hang the end of a power chord, a drill (nose down), or my jig-saw in a pinch. Going forward, these are probably going to be phased out with a shop-built router table. In the mean time, though, they aren't a problem.

~DB
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Nice! i'd say thats a good deal too. those TS mods from shopnotes look interesting - but i dont have a subscription…

i'll be interested to see what you do with this. that (and similar models) appear to be relatively common and "good" craftsman tools.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Hi Dan…..I share your enthusiasm cause I have that exact same saw & stand, only mine is late 70's with a solid topped rh wing. Even though I lust for an old Unisaw someday, this saw was a major upgrade two years ago, and it still serves me well. .....for $50! The fence is ornery, and I hope to replace it soon. The stand & casters are VERY mediocre, at best. The legs are way too flexible, and the casters are too lightweight gauge metal for the weight they need to bear. I've been thinking of stiffening up the legs with hardwood bracing from the inside. But it's a good saw….good investment.
Have you checked Sears online to find parts availability yet? Sometimes they do well, other times you get stuck because lots of major components are obsolete on the Emerson stuff. ~Joe
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
congrats on your new saw.
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Danny, the older they are, the better they get. Enjoy!
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Danny,

I used to have one of these. Mine was upgraded with an Incra fence, machined pulleys and a link belt. Once I fine-tuned it, it was a fine saw.

I actually liked the blade guard. It was very easy to install and remove, which is the single most important aspect of a guard as it encourages diligent use.

Enjoy!
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
Oh! But it's not a SawStop! How you gonna keep from cuttin' your fingers off? :)

Sorry; sarcasm /OFF

I have a similar saw (circa 1965 - 1970) and love it! Fences are always the really big issue with older Craftsman saws. That saw, with the T2 fence, will probably do anything you need to do!
 

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Table Saw

If you had read The Great Table Saw Debate Continues then you know I just recently purchased an old Craftsman Emerson saw. This was a major step in my home shop. The old saw literraly crapped out on me in a major way. (Could have killed me if I wasn't careful.)

Well, after a couple of weeks I have finally gotten to work a bit on tuning and doing a few cuts. I've worked through part of a quick project and I have to say I am not disapointed in the saw at all. That particular model is well made and the motor has plenty of power. Plus, it seems to be plenty customizable.



Well, the first thing that I upgraded was the legs. I absolutely have to have a mobel base. My shop is just too small to work without one. However, price is a major concern. Also, I have the unfortunate asset of an unlevel floor (dug out basement) and not enough head room to lay down a level floor (or money). So, I settled on the retracting casters from Woodcraft . I was able to pick up a set while on vacation a right after I bought the saw so the wheels went on early.



This was also my first experience with something I was hoping I wouldn't have to do: modify the saw. And by "modify" I mean drill holes. The stock legs on the the saw didn't have holes that line up for the casters so I ended up drilling (using a step bit) new holes and attaching them that way. Worked out well. But, it isn't the last time I'm going to have to do something like that (more on that later).



So far, I like the saw and the possibilities that it opens up for me. The next step, which I am in the middle of, is to buy and attach a new fence system. I already have the fence, but I'll do a write up and review on that separately. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures and if you have the chance to get one of these saws, you won't be sorry.

~DB

P.S.: Sorry for the blurry pics. Phone camera's suck.
I can tell you from experience that that saw is a sweetheart.
Here is an idea; on the right side fence, make yourself an extension out of some two by's about 12 inches wide by the depth of the saw, and go to a metal fabrication shop and have them make you an insert to fit into the new frame of quarter inch steel. Measure your router and drill the holes and mount it. You can use the fence on the router and the TS. I wish I still had mine. I used a Bosch that adjusted by rotating the router to bring it up and down, but Porter-Cable has one with a better adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Table Saw Fence

To continue the series of setting up my Craftsman table saw, I'd like to go over adding the aftermarket Delta T2 fence system. I have basically followed the same steps as Jamie did on his setup. For the most part, this is the way to go for this setup.

A couple of things before I get started. First, you will have to drill new holes in the mounting brackets for the fence system. There is no way around this. If you take your time and pay attention, you'll do alright. Second, make sure you wear gloves and eye-wear when cutting/drilling metal. Wood in your eye can hurt, but imagine a hot sliver of sharp (or dull) metal. Not a good day! Lastly, the fence is not US made so you'll need metric wrenches/sockets. If I remember correctly, a 12mm and a 10mm wrench ought to do it.

Summary

For those who don't want a long explanation, here is the basics: Line up the fence with zero on the tube and mounting bracket. Drill holes in the bracket (front and back) to match the holes in the table saw top. Mount the system. And you're done. Easy.

Instructions

(I've got a lot of pics, but I'll try not to be pic happy.)

Step 1: Remove the old fence and make sure your top and wings are flat as possible and all necessary bolts are tight. Unplug any power chords to the machine and remove any safety keys.

Step 2: Attach the tube (the part with the scale on it) to the front mounting bracket. Take a strip of blue painters tape and tape it to the bracket about where you think things should line up. Give yourself 3 or 4 inches of play. Put another piece on the table saw's cut line.

Step 3: Raise your blade all the way up. Now, rest the fence on the table top up against and parallel to the right side of the blade. Hold the bracket with the tube attached up to the front as if it was mounted to the saw. Line up zero on the scale and mark on both the TS's blue tape and the mounting bracket's a reference mark.



Step 4: Now, take another piece of tape and put it on the table saw's front edge (don't cover your reference mark). Hold the mounting bracket and tube back up to the saw and check for a snug fit on the fence "T" without raising the fence off the table top more than 1/32" or so. Once done, make a horizontal mark near the fence "T" referencing the top of the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Take the fence off the table and set it aside. Remove the tube from the mounting bracket.

Step 6: Now that you have the horizontal and vertical positions marked on your reference tape (on the saw), you can measure the location of the holes in relation to the reference mark. Remember to measure parallel and perpendicular respectively to the table's top. You don't want the fence out of square already!

Step 7: Transfer your measurements to the mounting bracket. I suggest marking the position of these holes on more blue tape. After you have done so, hold the mounting bracket up to the saw and eye the positions to double check.

Step 8: Now that you have the holes marked and you are confident that you are not going to have everything completely out of whack (seriously, triple check yourself at this point), you are ready to drill. I put a scrap piece of board on my drill press table to act as a fence. Once lined up with the vertical position of the holes, I only have to worry about the horizontal. For a drill bit, I used a step drill with the press at the lowest possible speed. Two good reasons for this: You can cut through the metal slowly and one bit at a time and you end up with a hole that has a larger entry point than exit. So, you don't have to do too much counter sinking.

Step 9: Make sure to clamp the bracket down once you have it lined up. Drill the hole and countersink if you feel you need to. Make sure to test the bolt in the hole as you go to make sure you are wide enough and the countersink is deep enough. The bolts head has to be flat to the bracket. Clean up the burs on the holes if you have any with a chisel.

Step 10: Test fit the front mounting bracket by attaching it to the table, attaching the tube, and then connecting the fence. If you are within the adjustments of the little window on the fence, your gold. Now take it all apart.

Step 11: You need to take it apart and transfer those hole locations to the rear fence. Once you've done this, drill your holes for it and put everything back together. Once you are done, go through the manual's steps on tuning the fence.


Sorry if that was all a bit wordy. Also, I might mention that is not exactly how I did it. My method was slightly different, but I didn't really like it so I kind of re-thought it as I planned this blog entry. Any feedback is welcome. Happy ripping!

~DB
 

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5,163 Posts
Table Saw Fence

To continue the series of setting up my Craftsman table saw, I'd like to go over adding the aftermarket Delta T2 fence system. I have basically followed the same steps as Jamie did on his setup. For the most part, this is the way to go for this setup.

A couple of things before I get started. First, you will have to drill new holes in the mounting brackets for the fence system. There is no way around this. If you take your time and pay attention, you'll do alright. Second, make sure you wear gloves and eye-wear when cutting/drilling metal. Wood in your eye can hurt, but imagine a hot sliver of sharp (or dull) metal. Not a good day! Lastly, the fence is not US made so you'll need metric wrenches/sockets. If I remember correctly, a 12mm and a 10mm wrench ought to do it.

Summary

For those who don't want a long explanation, here is the basics: Line up the fence with zero on the tube and mounting bracket. Drill holes in the bracket (front and back) to match the holes in the table saw top. Mount the system. And you're done. Easy.

Instructions

(I've got a lot of pics, but I'll try not to be pic happy.)

Step 1: Remove the old fence and make sure your top and wings are flat as possible and all necessary bolts are tight. Unplug any power chords to the machine and remove any safety keys.

Step 2: Attach the tube (the part with the scale on it) to the front mounting bracket. Take a strip of blue painters tape and tape it to the bracket about where you think things should line up. Give yourself 3 or 4 inches of play. Put another piece on the table saw's cut line.

Step 3: Raise your blade all the way up. Now, rest the fence on the table top up against and parallel to the right side of the blade. Hold the bracket with the tube attached up to the front as if it was mounted to the saw. Line up zero on the scale and mark on both the TS's blue tape and the mounting bracket's a reference mark.



Step 4: Now, take another piece of tape and put it on the table saw's front edge (don't cover your reference mark). Hold the mounting bracket and tube back up to the saw and check for a snug fit on the fence "T" without raising the fence off the table top more than 1/32" or so. Once done, make a horizontal mark near the fence "T" referencing the top of the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Take the fence off the table and set it aside. Remove the tube from the mounting bracket.

Step 6: Now that you have the horizontal and vertical positions marked on your reference tape (on the saw), you can measure the location of the holes in relation to the reference mark. Remember to measure parallel and perpendicular respectively to the table's top. You don't want the fence out of square already!

Step 7: Transfer your measurements to the mounting bracket. I suggest marking the position of these holes on more blue tape. After you have done so, hold the mounting bracket up to the saw and eye the positions to double check.

Step 8: Now that you have the holes marked and you are confident that you are not going to have everything completely out of whack (seriously, triple check yourself at this point), you are ready to drill. I put a scrap piece of board on my drill press table to act as a fence. Once lined up with the vertical position of the holes, I only have to worry about the horizontal. For a drill bit, I used a step drill with the press at the lowest possible speed. Two good reasons for this: You can cut through the metal slowly and one bit at a time and you end up with a hole that has a larger entry point than exit. So, you don't have to do too much counter sinking.

Step 9: Make sure to clamp the bracket down once you have it lined up. Drill the hole and countersink if you feel you need to. Make sure to test the bolt in the hole as you go to make sure you are wide enough and the countersink is deep enough. The bolts head has to be flat to the bracket. Clean up the burs on the holes if you have any with a chisel.

Step 10: Test fit the front mounting bracket by attaching it to the table, attaching the tube, and then connecting the fence. If you are within the adjustments of the little window on the fence, your gold. Now take it all apart.

Step 11: You need to take it apart and transfer those hole locations to the rear fence. Once you've done this, drill your holes for it and put everything back together. Once you are done, go through the manual's steps on tuning the fence.


Sorry if that was all a bit wordy. Also, I might mention that is not exactly how I did it. My method was slightly different, but I didn't really like it so I kind of re-thought it as I planned this blog entry. Any feedback is welcome. Happy ripping!

~DB
Danny, this should make a huge difference in the performance of your saw. This is a nice blog and you explained the process pretty well.
 

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19,720 Posts
Table Saw Fence

To continue the series of setting up my Craftsman table saw, I'd like to go over adding the aftermarket Delta T2 fence system. I have basically followed the same steps as Jamie did on his setup. For the most part, this is the way to go for this setup.

A couple of things before I get started. First, you will have to drill new holes in the mounting brackets for the fence system. There is no way around this. If you take your time and pay attention, you'll do alright. Second, make sure you wear gloves and eye-wear when cutting/drilling metal. Wood in your eye can hurt, but imagine a hot sliver of sharp (or dull) metal. Not a good day! Lastly, the fence is not US made so you'll need metric wrenches/sockets. If I remember correctly, a 12mm and a 10mm wrench ought to do it.

Summary

For those who don't want a long explanation, here is the basics: Line up the fence with zero on the tube and mounting bracket. Drill holes in the bracket (front and back) to match the holes in the table saw top. Mount the system. And you're done. Easy.

Instructions

(I've got a lot of pics, but I'll try not to be pic happy.)

Step 1: Remove the old fence and make sure your top and wings are flat as possible and all necessary bolts are tight. Unplug any power chords to the machine and remove any safety keys.

Step 2: Attach the tube (the part with the scale on it) to the front mounting bracket. Take a strip of blue painters tape and tape it to the bracket about where you think things should line up. Give yourself 3 or 4 inches of play. Put another piece on the table saw's cut line.

Step 3: Raise your blade all the way up. Now, rest the fence on the table top up against and parallel to the right side of the blade. Hold the bracket with the tube attached up to the front as if it was mounted to the saw. Line up zero on the scale and mark on both the TS's blue tape and the mounting bracket's a reference mark.



Step 4: Now, take another piece of tape and put it on the table saw's front edge (don't cover your reference mark). Hold the mounting bracket and tube back up to the saw and check for a snug fit on the fence "T" without raising the fence off the table top more than 1/32" or so. Once done, make a horizontal mark near the fence "T" referencing the top of the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Take the fence off the table and set it aside. Remove the tube from the mounting bracket.

Step 6: Now that you have the horizontal and vertical positions marked on your reference tape (on the saw), you can measure the location of the holes in relation to the reference mark. Remember to measure parallel and perpendicular respectively to the table's top. You don't want the fence out of square already!

Step 7: Transfer your measurements to the mounting bracket. I suggest marking the position of these holes on more blue tape. After you have done so, hold the mounting bracket up to the saw and eye the positions to double check.

Step 8: Now that you have the holes marked and you are confident that you are not going to have everything completely out of whack (seriously, triple check yourself at this point), you are ready to drill. I put a scrap piece of board on my drill press table to act as a fence. Once lined up with the vertical position of the holes, I only have to worry about the horizontal. For a drill bit, I used a step drill with the press at the lowest possible speed. Two good reasons for this: You can cut through the metal slowly and one bit at a time and you end up with a hole that has a larger entry point than exit. So, you don't have to do too much counter sinking.

Step 9: Make sure to clamp the bracket down once you have it lined up. Drill the hole and countersink if you feel you need to. Make sure to test the bolt in the hole as you go to make sure you are wide enough and the countersink is deep enough. The bolts head has to be flat to the bracket. Clean up the burs on the holes if you have any with a chisel.

Step 10: Test fit the front mounting bracket by attaching it to the table, attaching the tube, and then connecting the fence. If you are within the adjustments of the little window on the fence, your gold. Now take it all apart.

Step 11: You need to take it apart and transfer those hole locations to the rear fence. Once you've done this, drill your holes for it and put everything back together. Once you are done, go through the manual's steps on tuning the fence.


Sorry if that was all a bit wordy. Also, I might mention that is not exactly how I did it. My method was slightly different, but I didn't really like it so I kind of re-thought it as I planned this blog entry. Any feedback is welcome. Happy ripping!

~DB
Good Job Danny you will get years of sevice from a super upgrade.Well done blog.
 
Joined
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4,013 Posts
Table Saw Fence

To continue the series of setting up my Craftsman table saw, I'd like to go over adding the aftermarket Delta T2 fence system. I have basically followed the same steps as Jamie did on his setup. For the most part, this is the way to go for this setup.

A couple of things before I get started. First, you will have to drill new holes in the mounting brackets for the fence system. There is no way around this. If you take your time and pay attention, you'll do alright. Second, make sure you wear gloves and eye-wear when cutting/drilling metal. Wood in your eye can hurt, but imagine a hot sliver of sharp (or dull) metal. Not a good day! Lastly, the fence is not US made so you'll need metric wrenches/sockets. If I remember correctly, a 12mm and a 10mm wrench ought to do it.

Summary

For those who don't want a long explanation, here is the basics: Line up the fence with zero on the tube and mounting bracket. Drill holes in the bracket (front and back) to match the holes in the table saw top. Mount the system. And you're done. Easy.

Instructions

(I've got a lot of pics, but I'll try not to be pic happy.)

Step 1: Remove the old fence and make sure your top and wings are flat as possible and all necessary bolts are tight. Unplug any power chords to the machine and remove any safety keys.

Step 2: Attach the tube (the part with the scale on it) to the front mounting bracket. Take a strip of blue painters tape and tape it to the bracket about where you think things should line up. Give yourself 3 or 4 inches of play. Put another piece on the table saw's cut line.

Step 3: Raise your blade all the way up. Now, rest the fence on the table top up against and parallel to the right side of the blade. Hold the bracket with the tube attached up to the front as if it was mounted to the saw. Line up zero on the scale and mark on both the TS's blue tape and the mounting bracket's a reference mark.



Step 4: Now, take another piece of tape and put it on the table saw's front edge (don't cover your reference mark). Hold the mounting bracket and tube back up to the saw and check for a snug fit on the fence "T" without raising the fence off the table top more than 1/32" or so. Once done, make a horizontal mark near the fence "T" referencing the top of the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Take the fence off the table and set it aside. Remove the tube from the mounting bracket.

Step 6: Now that you have the horizontal and vertical positions marked on your reference tape (on the saw), you can measure the location of the holes in relation to the reference mark. Remember to measure parallel and perpendicular respectively to the table's top. You don't want the fence out of square already!

Step 7: Transfer your measurements to the mounting bracket. I suggest marking the position of these holes on more blue tape. After you have done so, hold the mounting bracket up to the saw and eye the positions to double check.

Step 8: Now that you have the holes marked and you are confident that you are not going to have everything completely out of whack (seriously, triple check yourself at this point), you are ready to drill. I put a scrap piece of board on my drill press table to act as a fence. Once lined up with the vertical position of the holes, I only have to worry about the horizontal. For a drill bit, I used a step drill with the press at the lowest possible speed. Two good reasons for this: You can cut through the metal slowly and one bit at a time and you end up with a hole that has a larger entry point than exit. So, you don't have to do too much counter sinking.

Step 9: Make sure to clamp the bracket down once you have it lined up. Drill the hole and countersink if you feel you need to. Make sure to test the bolt in the hole as you go to make sure you are wide enough and the countersink is deep enough. The bolts head has to be flat to the bracket. Clean up the burs on the holes if you have any with a chisel.

Step 10: Test fit the front mounting bracket by attaching it to the table, attaching the tube, and then connecting the fence. If you are within the adjustments of the little window on the fence, your gold. Now take it all apart.

Step 11: You need to take it apart and transfer those hole locations to the rear fence. Once you've done this, drill your holes for it and put everything back together. Once you are done, go through the manual's steps on tuning the fence.


Sorry if that was all a bit wordy. Also, I might mention that is not exactly how I did it. My method was slightly different, but I didn't really like it so I kind of re-thought it as I planned this blog entry. Any feedback is welcome. Happy ripping!

~DB
Nice job, Danny.
 

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Joined
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2,790 Posts
Table Saw Fence

To continue the series of setting up my Craftsman table saw, I'd like to go over adding the aftermarket Delta T2 fence system. I have basically followed the same steps as Jamie did on his setup. For the most part, this is the way to go for this setup.

A couple of things before I get started. First, you will have to drill new holes in the mounting brackets for the fence system. There is no way around this. If you take your time and pay attention, you'll do alright. Second, make sure you wear gloves and eye-wear when cutting/drilling metal. Wood in your eye can hurt, but imagine a hot sliver of sharp (or dull) metal. Not a good day! Lastly, the fence is not US made so you'll need metric wrenches/sockets. If I remember correctly, a 12mm and a 10mm wrench ought to do it.

Summary

For those who don't want a long explanation, here is the basics: Line up the fence with zero on the tube and mounting bracket. Drill holes in the bracket (front and back) to match the holes in the table saw top. Mount the system. And you're done. Easy.

Instructions

(I've got a lot of pics, but I'll try not to be pic happy.)

Step 1: Remove the old fence and make sure your top and wings are flat as possible and all necessary bolts are tight. Unplug any power chords to the machine and remove any safety keys.

Step 2: Attach the tube (the part with the scale on it) to the front mounting bracket. Take a strip of blue painters tape and tape it to the bracket about where you think things should line up. Give yourself 3 or 4 inches of play. Put another piece on the table saw's cut line.

Step 3: Raise your blade all the way up. Now, rest the fence on the table top up against and parallel to the right side of the blade. Hold the bracket with the tube attached up to the front as if it was mounted to the saw. Line up zero on the scale and mark on both the TS's blue tape and the mounting bracket's a reference mark.



Step 4: Now, take another piece of tape and put it on the table saw's front edge (don't cover your reference mark). Hold the mounting bracket and tube back up to the saw and check for a snug fit on the fence "T" without raising the fence off the table top more than 1/32" or so. Once done, make a horizontal mark near the fence "T" referencing the top of the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Take the fence off the table and set it aside. Remove the tube from the mounting bracket.

Step 6: Now that you have the horizontal and vertical positions marked on your reference tape (on the saw), you can measure the location of the holes in relation to the reference mark. Remember to measure parallel and perpendicular respectively to the table's top. You don't want the fence out of square already!

Step 7: Transfer your measurements to the mounting bracket. I suggest marking the position of these holes on more blue tape. After you have done so, hold the mounting bracket up to the saw and eye the positions to double check.

Step 8: Now that you have the holes marked and you are confident that you are not going to have everything completely out of whack (seriously, triple check yourself at this point), you are ready to drill. I put a scrap piece of board on my drill press table to act as a fence. Once lined up with the vertical position of the holes, I only have to worry about the horizontal. For a drill bit, I used a step drill with the press at the lowest possible speed. Two good reasons for this: You can cut through the metal slowly and one bit at a time and you end up with a hole that has a larger entry point than exit. So, you don't have to do too much counter sinking.

Step 9: Make sure to clamp the bracket down once you have it lined up. Drill the hole and countersink if you feel you need to. Make sure to test the bolt in the hole as you go to make sure you are wide enough and the countersink is deep enough. The bolts head has to be flat to the bracket. Clean up the burs on the holes if you have any with a chisel.

Step 10: Test fit the front mounting bracket by attaching it to the table, attaching the tube, and then connecting the fence. If you are within the adjustments of the little window on the fence, your gold. Now take it all apart.

Step 11: You need to take it apart and transfer those hole locations to the rear fence. Once you've done this, drill your holes for it and put everything back together. Once you are done, go through the manual's steps on tuning the fence.


Sorry if that was all a bit wordy. Also, I might mention that is not exactly how I did it. My method was slightly different, but I didn't really like it so I kind of re-thought it as I planned this blog entry. Any feedback is welcome. Happy ripping!

~DB
Love that saw. I used to have one, then I got a divorce and it was gone. I'm looking for another and I hope to be able to have that Delta fence, the Craftsman fence while sturdy tends to be a bit off.
 
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