[MT_Stringer]

Dust Collection for the sanders

With the miter saw station almost complete, I had to stop and build a couple of coolers. Today I worked on setting up the dust collection for the sanders. It appears I will have room for a HF belt sander, the 1 inch strip belt sander, and the Oscillating sander. All three will fit nicely behind the miter saw fences.

With the miter saw station in place, I have about 7 inches of room from the back of the cabinet to the wall. So…

• I devised a plan to rout the dust from the miter saw to the Dust Deputy and then on to the Shop Vac.
• I plan to use the Bucket Max for the three sanders.
• Cut and fit 6 inch wide shelves to cover the area between the saw cabinet and the wall.
• Use a pair of vertical supports to support the board on each cabinet.
• Drill holes as needed so the pipes/hose can pass through the verticals.
• Use 1 1/2 inch PVC Pipe and whatever it takes to make everything fit between the sanders and the Bucket Max.

At least that is the ultimate goal.
However, for now, I need to temporarily hook up the 1 inch belt sander. When I get back from a road trip, I have another cooler ordered and that sander will be needed to sand the pieces for the Texans logo.

I mounted the two verticals to the back of the cabinet using pocket hole screws. Then I put the shelf in place and attached it with wood screws so it can be removed if needed. So far it looks good.

I drilled two holes for the dust collection to pass through. Lucky me, I think I covered one up with the belt sander! Just my luck.

This is all for now. When I get a chance, I will work on the other side and begin roughing in the pipe. Kinda makes me feel like a plumber.

Here are several pics.
My crude "plan".

Pics of the first shelf laying on the work table.

Both sanders temporarily set in place with a hose run to the one I need to use next week.

 

[steliart]

Dust Collection for the sanders

With the miter saw station almost complete, I had to stop and build a couple of coolers. Today I worked on setting up the dust collection for the sanders. It appears I will have room for a HF belt sander, the 1 inch strip belt sander, and the Oscillating sander. All three will fit nicely behind the miter saw fences.

With the miter saw station in place, I have about 7 inches of room from the back of the cabinet to the wall. So…

• I devised a plan to rout the dust from the miter saw to the Dust Deputy and then on to the Shop Vac.
• I plan to use the Bucket Max for the three sanders.
• Cut and fit 6 inch wide shelves to cover the area between the saw cabinet and the wall.
• Use a pair of vertical supports to support the board on each cabinet.
• Drill holes as needed so the pipes/hose can pass through the verticals.
• Use 1 1/2 inch PVC Pipe and whatever it takes to make everything fit between the sanders and the Bucket Max.

At least that is the ultimate goal.
However, for now, I need to temporarily hook up the 1 inch belt sander. When I get back from a road trip, I have another cooler ordered and that sander will be needed to sand the pieces for the Texans logo.

I mounted the two verticals to the back of the cabinet using pocket hole screws. Then I put the shelf in place and attached it with wood screws so it can be removed if needed. So far it looks good.

I drilled two holes for the dust collection to pass through. Lucky me, I think I covered one up with the belt sander! Just my luck.

This is all for now. When I get a chance, I will work on the other side and begin roughing in the pipe. Kinda makes me feel like a plumber.

Here are several pics.
My crude "plan".

Pics of the first shelf laying on the work table.

Both sanders temporarily set in place with a hose run to the one I need to use next week.

It looks like your set-up is gonna work just great!!! well done

 

[MT_Stringer]

Dust Collection for the sanders

With the miter saw station almost complete, I had to stop and build a couple of coolers. Today I worked on setting up the dust collection for the sanders. It appears I will have room for a HF belt sander, the 1 inch strip belt sander, and the Oscillating sander. All three will fit nicely behind the miter saw fences.

With the miter saw station in place, I have about 7 inches of room from the back of the cabinet to the wall. So…

• I devised a plan to rout the dust from the miter saw to the Dust Deputy and then on to the Shop Vac.
• I plan to use the Bucket Max for the three sanders.
• Cut and fit 6 inch wide shelves to cover the area between the saw cabinet and the wall.
• Use a pair of vertical supports to support the board on each cabinet.
• Drill holes as needed so the pipes/hose can pass through the verticals.
• Use 1 1/2 inch PVC Pipe and whatever it takes to make everything fit between the sanders and the Bucket Max.

At least that is the ultimate goal.
However, for now, I need to temporarily hook up the 1 inch belt sander. When I get back from a road trip, I have another cooler ordered and that sander will be needed to sand the pieces for the Texans logo.

I mounted the two verticals to the back of the cabinet using pocket hole screws. Then I put the shelf in place and attached it with wood screws so it can be removed if needed. So far it looks good.

I drilled two holes for the dust collection to pass through. Lucky me, I think I covered one up with the belt sander! Just my luck.

This is all for now. When I get a chance, I will work on the other side and begin roughing in the pipe. Kinda makes me feel like a plumber.

Here are several pics.
My crude "plan".

Pics of the first shelf laying on the work table.

Both sanders temporarily set in place with a hose run to the one I need to use next week.

Wow! I didn't realize it has been almost 2 years since I started on the dust collection. However, I have finally got it complete.

Following my original plan, I have plumbed up the PVC pipe and got it connected to the Dust Deputy and Shop Vac. The Dust Deputy sits at the end of the miter saw station in a small cubby hole part of the garage. The Shop Vac sits underneath the Miter Saw. The pvc pipe is not glued, but they are held in place with sheet metal screws and each joint is wrapped with duct tape.

Some of the joints had to be improvised. It seems no two items fit as they should. Several wraps with the heavy duty duct tape helps to take up the slack.

I now have several dust ports, each controlled by a blast gate. A couple of them are plastic and the last two I just finished making. Actually, mine work better than the store bought ones.

Port #1 - Miter Saw

Port #2 - General purpose connection for ROS, router, Clean up, etc.

Port #3 - 1 inch x 30 belt sander

Port #4 - 4 inch Belt Sander.

Overview

Plumbing behind the miter saw station

 

[MT_Stringer]

Dust Collection for the sanders

With the miter saw station almost complete, I had to stop and build a couple of coolers. Today I worked on setting up the dust collection for the sanders. It appears I will have room for a HF belt sander, the 1 inch strip belt sander, and the Oscillating sander. All three will fit nicely behind the miter saw fences.

With the miter saw station in place, I have about 7 inches of room from the back of the cabinet to the wall. So…

• I devised a plan to rout the dust from the miter saw to the Dust Deputy and then on to the Shop Vac.
• I plan to use the Bucket Max for the three sanders.
• Cut and fit 6 inch wide shelves to cover the area between the saw cabinet and the wall.
• Use a pair of vertical supports to support the board on each cabinet.
• Drill holes as needed so the pipes/hose can pass through the verticals.
• Use 1 1/2 inch PVC Pipe and whatever it takes to make everything fit between the sanders and the Bucket Max.

At least that is the ultimate goal.
However, for now, I need to temporarily hook up the 1 inch belt sander. When I get back from a road trip, I have another cooler ordered and that sander will be needed to sand the pieces for the Texans logo.

I mounted the two verticals to the back of the cabinet using pocket hole screws. Then I put the shelf in place and attached it with wood screws so it can be removed if needed. So far it looks good.

I drilled two holes for the dust collection to pass through. Lucky me, I think I covered one up with the belt sander! Just my luck.

This is all for now. When I get a chance, I will work on the other side and begin roughing in the pipe. Kinda makes me feel like a plumber.

Here are several pics.
My crude "plan".

Pics of the first shelf laying on the work table.

Both sanders temporarily set in place with a hose run to the one I need to use next week.

Shop Made Blast Gates - How I made them

I used scrap pieces of 3/4 inch plywood and some 1/4 inch plywood. The spacers for the slide gate were also made from 1/4 inch plywood. I added 5 layers of painters tape to each one so the slide would be easy to move in or out. The spacers are attached to the bottom part of the gate with glue and staples. The top piece is attached with screws only so I can take them apart if needed.

I attached the 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe to the blast gate with a couple of pocket screws that just barely penetrate the plastic pipe. That is holding the pipe in place.

Finally, I attach the completed blast gate to the miter saw station with a couple of 2 1/2 inch pocket screws.

They seem to work very well.

Parts

 

[MT_Stringer]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

 

[DaddyZ]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

Once you get the Back on there will be even more stability.

Nice Job !!

 

[MT_Stringer]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

Thanks Pat. I haven't decided whether or not to add a back. Especially now that it is all bolted together. It is plenty solid as is. The two boards across the back are 6 inches wide each, glued and pocket screwed to the sides, top and bottom.

 

[whitebeast88]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

very nice,i need to build something like this for my planer.great work,thanks for sharing!!

 

[dbhost]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

You had me until the paint on maple ply… It looks good, I just happen to be rather fond of maple grains…

Aside from the personal preference issue though, it looks like you have done a good job so far.. Tthe proof so to speak will be in the puddin once a back and drawers get on there…

 

[MT_Stringer]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

If you look closely, there is something black in the bottom of the stand. It's two small saddle bags filled with sand. I had them left over from my photography days to anchor my light stands. Now they add about 20 additional pounds to the lower part of the stand.

I have a 5 inch drill press milling vise and a 4 inch drill press vise destined to occupy the bottom tray.

 

[MT_Stringer]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

"You had me until the paint on maple ply… It looks good, I just happen to be rather fond of maple grains…"

All the new stuff is getting painted. I never claimed to be a fine furniture maker. The paint makes the little boo boos less noticeable. heh heh.

 

[moonie]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

nice work

 

[twokidsnosleep]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

great shop improvement project!

 

[Kentuk55]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

Ya gotta luv that pocket hole joinery. Nice cabinet

 

[MT_Stringer]

Drill Press Makeover

I have been really busy lately building a couple of my coolers. The miter saw station is working out great. I still have to make drawer fronts and install them and finalize the dust collection system.

So, I looked around and realized my drill press was just in the way with no easy way of moving it without literally picking it up and moving it onto the work table.

So, I devised a plan. After browsing the internet and checking out projects fellow LJ'ers have posted, I decided to build a stand with several drawers to hold all of my stuff.

Stuff:

• Drill bits of varying style, size - some of which are in cases and some are loose in the drawer.
• Forstner bits - some in a case, some loose and a couple are really big.
• Hole saws - up to 5 inches in diameter.
• Assorted accessories like key chucks chamfer bits and other misc stuff I have collected over the years.

Here is what I started with. A bench top drill press from Northern tool with 3/4HP motor sitting on a B&D Workmate. I had previously built a table for the drill press but it is going to be replaced by the one described in ShopNotes Issue #94.

I didn't have enough plywood so I bought a sheet of Maple at Lowe's. I had a $10 discount card so that helped.

I cut two sides, a top and a bottom piece and a couple of pieces for the back. Also, I attached a 1/2 inch wide piece across the top and a three inch piece across the bottom in the front. The two raw edges were covered with some 3/4 inch maple I had in the scrap pile.

I cut the sheet down to rough size with a track saw. I doubled when I cut the sides.

Before doing any assembly, I decided how many drawers and what size I would need. That turned out to be fairly easy. I will build all four drawers 4 inches deep. That means the bottom drawer will actually be a tray to hold my two vises and whatever else I can pile in there.

Next up was assembly of the mobile base purchased from Harbor freight. Twenty percent off made it $31 and some change. I have the same base on my band saw so this should have been a breeze. Right? Not hardly.

I followed the directions and milled a 2×4 into 1 1/4×1 1/4 pieces. Then I cut them according to instructions. A trial fit showed everything was too short. So I cut the long ones shorter and made two new long sides. I guess I was just goofy because the instructions are correct . The side boards must be cut so the rear wheels can fit into the frame. :-(

After putting this thing together and taking it apart several times, I finally got a good fit. The only problem is the front casters weren't high enough to provide enough ground clearance for my very unlevel concrete garage floor. So, I took them off and added a couple of washers to each one (front casters). that solved the problem and it moves easily around the shop.

One additional step I took was to drill a hole in each of the corner brackets so I could bolt the cabinet to each piece. A 5/16 inch bolt/washer/nut has the cabinet securely mounted in place. I marked the holes with masking tape and drew an arrow to each one. I drilled these. They weren't part of the kit.

I made a top for the stand from part of a solid core door which was left over from when I built my work table. It is 1 3/4 inch thick. I trim it slightly to get the sides even, then I attached an edge band made of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch. Still making use of the stuff I have available to use. since the door has a particle board core, I used a goodly ( ) amount of glue, countersunk screws and lots of clamps. Hopefully it will stay together for a long time. I covered the top with some white Formica I had on hand. After all was said and done, I trimmed the Formica, then ran a chamfer bit around the top to ease the sharp edge.

Here is the cabinet painted and installed on the base.

And VOILA! My job here is complete! Well, almost. I still have drawers to build and the table. Note that I mounted the drill press to the stand by bolting through the top and the plywood top of the stand by using 3/8 inch x 5 inch bolts/ washers/lock washers and nuts. BTW, this setup is really stable. That had been my main concern from the very beginning.

And I just devised a plan to make an adapter so I can bolt my bench vise to the drill press base! I sent my buddy a note requesting for a piece of plate to make an adapter. He usually has all sorts of stuff laying around his shop also!

Hope you liked this post. i will post pics of the table build when I get it going.

And now for aan update.
I finally finished the cabinet for the drill press.
I built the drawers and installed a 1/2 inch plywood back.
I made drawer fronts, added knobs and painted all to match.
I am loving it. Rock solid!

Note: I also made a base for the bench vise and it is bolted to the drill press base. Loosen the bolts and the vise can be moved to my work bench and bolted down for heavy duty work.
Here are some pics of the drawers. I now have all of my drilling tools and accessories in one place.

 

[MT_Stringer]

New Drill Press Table

For several years, I have had a small bench top drill press. I made a table for it out of 3/4 inch plywood. It worked OK, but just wasn't as good as could have been. When I upgraded to my current drill press, I transplanted the table and sold the other press to a friend.

Since I am building a rolling stand for the drill press, I decided to upgrade the table also. I chose the plan from Shop Notes Issue #94.

Features of this table include the following:

• large work surface (15×28 inches)
• two "T" tracks used to attach a fence and/or clamps, hold downs and/or jigs. The track is the Rockler universal style which accepts 1/4 and 5/16 inch flange bolts.
• four slots cut through the table which allow the use of common bar clamps.
• custom dust collection box.
• fence with "T" track which is useful to set up stops for repeat drilling operations. (future project coming soon)
• custom inserts - I still have to make them for drilling or when the the drill press is used for sanding operations. Inserts can be easily replaced.

So, here it is.

All sorts of clamps and hold downs can be used with this table. In this picture, I have a Kreg Klamp in one track and a Rockler hold down in the other. Two quick release bar clamps hold down the front of the sample piece of 3/4 plywood.

In this picture, I have a custom piece made to connect my Shop Vac to the dust collection box. I got a good fit by slicing the pvc and then reshaping it it with a heat gun.

Note: The plan called for a small drawer in the box under the table, but I decided to skip it. I blocked off part of the interior just ahead of the insert opening. I might cut an opening later but I doubt it.

As a bonus, the added height of the dust collection provided just enough room for the crank handle to clear without having to cut part of the table away.

----------
And here is how I did it!

The plan calls for laminating two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch but I can only buy it in full sheets…and that is expensive. I suppose I could have used regular plywood, but I recently bought a 5×5 piece of 1/2 inch BB, so I made my table out of two pieces of the 1/2 inch glued together.

Lots of clamps and some drywall screws.

To make the slots, I drilled holes on each end of the slot with a 1 1/4 inch forstner bit.

Then I cut out the waste with a jig saw and I used my router jig to route the area between the holes. They are kinda smooth but not perfect.

I made a pattern for the filler pieces, then cut out four identical pieces.

I installed "T" nuts and bolted the bottom of the DC box to the drill press metal table.

Per plan, I made filler pieces to fill in the area under the metal table so it will be easier to clamp to.

Dust Collection fitting test fit.

Final dry fit of all pieces.

Preparing to cut the opening for the insert.

 

[DocSavage45]

New Drill Press Table

For several years, I have had a small bench top drill press. I made a table for it out of 3/4 inch plywood. It worked OK, but just wasn't as good as could have been. When I upgraded to my current drill press, I transplanted the table and sold the other press to a friend.

Since I am building a rolling stand for the drill press, I decided to upgrade the table also. I chose the plan from Shop Notes Issue #94.

Features of this table include the following:

• large work surface (15×28 inches)
• two "T" tracks used to attach a fence and/or clamps, hold downs and/or jigs. The track is the Rockler universal style which accepts 1/4 and 5/16 inch flange bolts.
• four slots cut through the table which allow the use of common bar clamps.
• custom dust collection box.
• fence with "T" track which is useful to set up stops for repeat drilling operations. (future project coming soon)
• custom inserts - I still have to make them for drilling or when the the drill press is used for sanding operations. Inserts can be easily replaced.

So, here it is.

All sorts of clamps and hold downs can be used with this table. In this picture, I have a Kreg Klamp in one track and a Rockler hold down in the other. Two quick release bar clamps hold down the front of the sample piece of 3/4 plywood.

In this picture, I have a custom piece made to connect my Shop Vac to the dust collection box. I got a good fit by slicing the pvc and then reshaping it it with a heat gun.

Note: The plan called for a small drawer in the box under the table, but I decided to skip it. I blocked off part of the interior just ahead of the insert opening. I might cut an opening later but I doubt it.

As a bonus, the added height of the dust collection provided just enough room for the crank handle to clear without having to cut part of the table away.

----------
And here is how I did it!

The plan calls for laminating two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch but I can only buy it in full sheets…and that is expensive. I suppose I could have used regular plywood, but I recently bought a 5×5 piece of 1/2 inch BB, so I made my table out of two pieces of the 1/2 inch glued together.

Lots of clamps and some drywall screws.

To make the slots, I drilled holes on each end of the slot with a 1 1/4 inch forstner bit.

Then I cut out the waste with a jig saw and I used my router jig to route the area between the holes. They are kinda smooth but not perfect.

I made a pattern for the filler pieces, then cut out four identical pieces.

I installed "T" nuts and bolted the bottom of the DC box to the drill press metal table.

Per plan, I made filler pieces to fill in the area under the metal table so it will be easier to clamp to.

Dust Collection fitting test fit.

Final dry fit of all pieces.

Preparing to cut the opening for the insert.

Mike,

I 'm going to do a drill press table build in the near future. I've seen a few interesting home shop builds. I plan to use my new out of the box bought in 2004 delta mortising attachment. Have you any plans to use hold downs? Where did you purchase your rails? Any plans for a back support and stop blocks for this tables future?

What would you do different? LOL!

 

[MT_Stringer]

New Drill Press Table

For several years, I have had a small bench top drill press. I made a table for it out of 3/4 inch plywood. It worked OK, but just wasn't as good as could have been. When I upgraded to my current drill press, I transplanted the table and sold the other press to a friend.

Since I am building a rolling stand for the drill press, I decided to upgrade the table also. I chose the plan from Shop Notes Issue #94.

Features of this table include the following:

• large work surface (15×28 inches)
• two "T" tracks used to attach a fence and/or clamps, hold downs and/or jigs. The track is the Rockler universal style which accepts 1/4 and 5/16 inch flange bolts.
• four slots cut through the table which allow the use of common bar clamps.
• custom dust collection box.
• fence with "T" track which is useful to set up stops for repeat drilling operations. (future project coming soon)
• custom inserts - I still have to make them for drilling or when the the drill press is used for sanding operations. Inserts can be easily replaced.

So, here it is.

All sorts of clamps and hold downs can be used with this table. In this picture, I have a Kreg Klamp in one track and a Rockler hold down in the other. Two quick release bar clamps hold down the front of the sample piece of 3/4 plywood.

In this picture, I have a custom piece made to connect my Shop Vac to the dust collection box. I got a good fit by slicing the pvc and then reshaping it it with a heat gun.

Note: The plan called for a small drawer in the box under the table, but I decided to skip it. I blocked off part of the interior just ahead of the insert opening. I might cut an opening later but I doubt it.

As a bonus, the added height of the dust collection provided just enough room for the crank handle to clear without having to cut part of the table away.

----------
And here is how I did it!

The plan calls for laminating two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch but I can only buy it in full sheets…and that is expensive. I suppose I could have used regular plywood, but I recently bought a 5×5 piece of 1/2 inch BB, so I made my table out of two pieces of the 1/2 inch glued together.

Lots of clamps and some drywall screws.

To make the slots, I drilled holes on each end of the slot with a 1 1/4 inch forstner bit.

Then I cut out the waste with a jig saw and I used my router jig to route the area between the holes. They are kinda smooth but not perfect.

I made a pattern for the filler pieces, then cut out four identical pieces.

I installed "T" nuts and bolted the bottom of the DC box to the drill press metal table.

Per plan, I made filler pieces to fill in the area under the metal table so it will be easier to clamp to.

Dust Collection fitting test fit.

Final dry fit of all pieces.

Preparing to cut the opening for the insert.

Doc, The blue tracks are from Rockler. I bought two 36 inch pieces of the universal track (for 1/4 or 5/16 flange bolts or 1/4 inch hex bolts). I cut one piece to fit the table and had a little piece left over.

I am still undecided about the fence. I have a few pieces of maple that might work and I have more Baltic birch. I can always glue up a 1 inch thick fence that is about 2 1/2 - 3 inches tall. Then rout a groove for the track and install it.

For your mortising attachment, it might be better to make your table 1 1/2 inches thick because of the downward force you will be applying when cutting the mortises.

A thicker table would provide more room for longer screws when attaching the T track. I could envision you making a jig that would span the two tracks and be positioned near the front of the table. Several toggle clamps securely mounted to the jig should help keep your wood in place when you remove the bit. At least that is my thinking.

I will have to get more use out of this table before I can make any comments about what changes I would recommend.
I struggled with my old table because I couldn't get clamps in the right position. That happened time after time. It appears I have solved my problem with this design.

I found some plans on Plans Now that look a lot like the table I built. The dust collection box is practically identical to the one I built. The table is not as fancy but that can be modified to fit your needs. The fence looks like what I will probably build.

 

[DocSavage45]

New Drill Press Table

For several years, I have had a small bench top drill press. I made a table for it out of 3/4 inch plywood. It worked OK, but just wasn't as good as could have been. When I upgraded to my current drill press, I transplanted the table and sold the other press to a friend.

Since I am building a rolling stand for the drill press, I decided to upgrade the table also. I chose the plan from Shop Notes Issue #94.

Features of this table include the following:

• large work surface (15×28 inches)
• two "T" tracks used to attach a fence and/or clamps, hold downs and/or jigs. The track is the Rockler universal style which accepts 1/4 and 5/16 inch flange bolts.
• four slots cut through the table which allow the use of common bar clamps.
• custom dust collection box.
• fence with "T" track which is useful to set up stops for repeat drilling operations. (future project coming soon)
• custom inserts - I still have to make them for drilling or when the the drill press is used for sanding operations. Inserts can be easily replaced.

So, here it is.

All sorts of clamps and hold downs can be used with this table. In this picture, I have a Kreg Klamp in one track and a Rockler hold down in the other. Two quick release bar clamps hold down the front of the sample piece of 3/4 plywood.

In this picture, I have a custom piece made to connect my Shop Vac to the dust collection box. I got a good fit by slicing the pvc and then reshaping it it with a heat gun.

Note: The plan called for a small drawer in the box under the table, but I decided to skip it. I blocked off part of the interior just ahead of the insert opening. I might cut an opening later but I doubt it.

As a bonus, the added height of the dust collection provided just enough room for the crank handle to clear without having to cut part of the table away.

----------
And here is how I did it!

The plan calls for laminating two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch but I can only buy it in full sheets…and that is expensive. I suppose I could have used regular plywood, but I recently bought a 5×5 piece of 1/2 inch BB, so I made my table out of two pieces of the 1/2 inch glued together.

Lots of clamps and some drywall screws.

To make the slots, I drilled holes on each end of the slot with a 1 1/4 inch forstner bit.

Then I cut out the waste with a jig saw and I used my router jig to route the area between the holes. They are kinda smooth but not perfect.

I made a pattern for the filler pieces, then cut out four identical pieces.

I installed "T" nuts and bolted the bottom of the DC box to the drill press metal table.

Per plan, I made filler pieces to fill in the area under the metal table so it will be easier to clamp to.

Dust Collection fitting test fit.

Final dry fit of all pieces.

Preparing to cut the opening for the insert.

Thanks!

Considering Rocklers hold down kits.

Also hope to mortise on angle so I would most likely need a jig set at correct angle or adjustable angles. Did you consider mdf w/ melamine as it seems many tables have that?

 

[MT_Stringer]

New Drill Press Table

For several years, I have had a small bench top drill press. I made a table for it out of 3/4 inch plywood. It worked OK, but just wasn't as good as could have been. When I upgraded to my current drill press, I transplanted the table and sold the other press to a friend.

Since I am building a rolling stand for the drill press, I decided to upgrade the table also. I chose the plan from Shop Notes Issue #94.

Features of this table include the following:

• large work surface (15×28 inches)
• two "T" tracks used to attach a fence and/or clamps, hold downs and/or jigs. The track is the Rockler universal style which accepts 1/4 and 5/16 inch flange bolts.
• four slots cut through the table which allow the use of common bar clamps.
• custom dust collection box.
• fence with "T" track which is useful to set up stops for repeat drilling operations. (future project coming soon)
• custom inserts - I still have to make them for drilling or when the the drill press is used for sanding operations. Inserts can be easily replaced.

So, here it is.

All sorts of clamps and hold downs can be used with this table. In this picture, I have a Kreg Klamp in one track and a Rockler hold down in the other. Two quick release bar clamps hold down the front of the sample piece of 3/4 plywood.

In this picture, I have a custom piece made to connect my Shop Vac to the dust collection box. I got a good fit by slicing the pvc and then reshaping it it with a heat gun.

Note: The plan called for a small drawer in the box under the table, but I decided to skip it. I blocked off part of the interior just ahead of the insert opening. I might cut an opening later but I doubt it.

As a bonus, the added height of the dust collection provided just enough room for the crank handle to clear without having to cut part of the table away.

----------
And here is how I did it!

The plan calls for laminating two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch but I can only buy it in full sheets…and that is expensive. I suppose I could have used regular plywood, but I recently bought a 5×5 piece of 1/2 inch BB, so I made my table out of two pieces of the 1/2 inch glued together.

Lots of clamps and some drywall screws.

To make the slots, I drilled holes on each end of the slot with a 1 1/4 inch forstner bit.

Then I cut out the waste with a jig saw and I used my router jig to route the area between the holes. They are kinda smooth but not perfect.

I made a pattern for the filler pieces, then cut out four identical pieces.

I installed "T" nuts and bolted the bottom of the DC box to the drill press metal table.

Per plan, I made filler pieces to fill in the area under the metal table so it will be easier to clamp to.

Dust Collection fitting test fit.

Final dry fit of all pieces.

Preparing to cut the opening for the insert.

"Did you consider mdf w/ melamine as it seems many tables have that?"

I did but I didn't!

I went with the BB because I had it on hand. However, I think two layers of 3/4 mdf would do you just fine. That is white Formica I put on my table…because I had it on hand also. Weldwood contact cement is what I used to glue it to the table.

I don't see why you couldn't glue it to both sides. Should make it even better.