[whitebeast88]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

very nice,can't wait till the next one.thanks for sharing.

 

[steliart]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

Looking beter and beter
well done

 

[KDO]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

I just discovered your blog, and am enjoying it.

Being a Texan who currently lives in Florida because of an aging set of in-laws, I always enjoying hearing TEXAS come through when I am reading something.
Some of your expressions sound just like me, and I often draw a laugh when I blurt them out.

" Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog."
I have had to explain that more often than I could count!

Nice work! I am sure that you are enjoying your shop.
Thanks for taking the time to document the process.

 

[fantail]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

Nice build, What grade of plywood did you use?

 

[MT_Stringer]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

Nice build, What grade of plywood did you use?

- Robert Cheramie

3/4 inch Birch from the big orange box store.

 

[MT_Stringer]

Kreg Precision Measuring System Installation

With the basic components of the miter saw station complete, I turned to the installation of the fences and the Kreg Precision Measuring System. Rockler had their 20% Off sale so I snatched it off the shelf!

The installation instructions specify the top track be mounted on a fence that is 2 1/4 inches high. So, I made a couple out of some maple I had on hand.

I used pocket hole construction to attach the two boards together to form an "L".

Top Trak installed and ready for the tape to be installed.

This pic show how the track is attached to the fence with screws provided in the kit.

Part of my original plan was to build this miter saw station so it could be used for other things also. With that in mind, I decided to attach the fence to the table with 1/4 inch bolts and brass inserts set in the table.

I used a straight edge to line up the fence, then drilled two 1/4 inch holes through the fence and just far enough in to the table to mark it. Then I switched drill bits and drilled the hole in the table for the insert.

To install the brass insert, I used a bolt with a couple of nuts and a washer to help guide the insert into the plywood table top. This worked pretty good…at least the second time around. I discovered that I needed to lock the nuts on the threads so I would have room to back them off. The first time I locked them at the end of the threads and couldn't loosen the nuts. The installation went smoothly after that. I used a wrench and slowly turned the bolt to drive the insert into the table top.

Here is a pic of the fence attached and ready to go.

The Swing stop and production stop ready for action.

The production stop has dual cursors so it can be used on either side of the saw.

To install the measuring tapes, a board cut to exactly 24 inches is used to help position the tape. The tape has to be installed with an offset so the cursor can be used to line up the mark correctly. Whew! My head went round and round with this part of the installation but I finally got it right.

Got it!

The Swing Stop has only one cursor so I set it up for the left side. If desired, you can swap to the right side by re-configuring how the stop is put together and switch the cursor to the left side.

A quick check and some slight tweaking of the cursor and I had the Swing Stop right on the money.

NOTE: Before buying the Kreg trak system, I had watched the various videos but didn't realize the Swing Stop could only be used on one side of the saw or the other. That is if you are using the measuring tape to set the stop. The problem is there is only room for one cursor so you have to decide which side to set it up for. I have since ordered a second Swing Stop so I can use it on the right side of my saw.

First use of the Kreg System was to cut the face frames for the cabinets. That was a quick and smooth operation.

I mentioned earlier that I want to use the table for other things…like my pocket hole jig.

My next entry will cover building and installing the drawers for the miter station. The paint is drying as I type.

 

[steliart]

Kreg Precision Measuring System Installation

With the basic components of the miter saw station complete, I turned to the installation of the fences and the Kreg Precision Measuring System. Rockler had their 20% Off sale so I snatched it off the shelf!

The installation instructions specify the top track be mounted on a fence that is 2 1/4 inches high. So, I made a couple out of some maple I had on hand.

I used pocket hole construction to attach the two boards together to form an "L".

Top Trak installed and ready for the tape to be installed.

This pic show how the track is attached to the fence with screws provided in the kit.

Part of my original plan was to build this miter saw station so it could be used for other things also. With that in mind, I decided to attach the fence to the table with 1/4 inch bolts and brass inserts set in the table.

I used a straight edge to line up the fence, then drilled two 1/4 inch holes through the fence and just far enough in to the table to mark it. Then I switched drill bits and drilled the hole in the table for the insert.

To install the brass insert, I used a bolt with a couple of nuts and a washer to help guide the insert into the plywood table top. This worked pretty good…at least the second time around. I discovered that I needed to lock the nuts on the threads so I would have room to back them off. The first time I locked them at the end of the threads and couldn't loosen the nuts. The installation went smoothly after that. I used a wrench and slowly turned the bolt to drive the insert into the table top.

Here is a pic of the fence attached and ready to go.

The Swing stop and production stop ready for action.

The production stop has dual cursors so it can be used on either side of the saw.

To install the measuring tapes, a board cut to exactly 24 inches is used to help position the tape. The tape has to be installed with an offset so the cursor can be used to line up the mark correctly. Whew! My head went round and round with this part of the installation but I finally got it right.

Got it!

The Swing Stop has only one cursor so I set it up for the left side. If desired, you can swap to the right side by re-configuring how the stop is put together and switch the cursor to the left side.

A quick check and some slight tweaking of the cursor and I had the Swing Stop right on the money.

NOTE: Before buying the Kreg trak system, I had watched the various videos but didn't realize the Swing Stop could only be used on one side of the saw or the other. That is if you are using the measuring tape to set the stop. The problem is there is only room for one cursor so you have to decide which side to set it up for. I have since ordered a second Swing Stop so I can use it on the right side of my saw.

First use of the Kreg System was to cut the face frames for the cabinets. That was a quick and smooth operation.

I mentioned earlier that I want to use the table for other things…like my pocket hole jig.

My next entry will cover building and installing the drawers for the miter station. The paint is drying as I type.

Beautifully done, is gonna be one of the best stations in here

 

[MT_Stringer]

Kreg Precision Measuring System Installation

With the basic components of the miter saw station complete, I turned to the installation of the fences and the Kreg Precision Measuring System. Rockler had their 20% Off sale so I snatched it off the shelf!

The installation instructions specify the top track be mounted on a fence that is 2 1/4 inches high. So, I made a couple out of some maple I had on hand.

I used pocket hole construction to attach the two boards together to form an "L".

Top Trak installed and ready for the tape to be installed.

This pic show how the track is attached to the fence with screws provided in the kit.

Part of my original plan was to build this miter saw station so it could be used for other things also. With that in mind, I decided to attach the fence to the table with 1/4 inch bolts and brass inserts set in the table.

I used a straight edge to line up the fence, then drilled two 1/4 inch holes through the fence and just far enough in to the table to mark it. Then I switched drill bits and drilled the hole in the table for the insert.

To install the brass insert, I used a bolt with a couple of nuts and a washer to help guide the insert into the plywood table top. This worked pretty good…at least the second time around. I discovered that I needed to lock the nuts on the threads so I would have room to back them off. The first time I locked them at the end of the threads and couldn't loosen the nuts. The installation went smoothly after that. I used a wrench and slowly turned the bolt to drive the insert into the table top.

Here is a pic of the fence attached and ready to go.

The Swing stop and production stop ready for action.

The production stop has dual cursors so it can be used on either side of the saw.

To install the measuring tapes, a board cut to exactly 24 inches is used to help position the tape. The tape has to be installed with an offset so the cursor can be used to line up the mark correctly. Whew! My head went round and round with this part of the installation but I finally got it right.

Got it!

The Swing Stop has only one cursor so I set it up for the left side. If desired, you can swap to the right side by re-configuring how the stop is put together and switch the cursor to the left side.

A quick check and some slight tweaking of the cursor and I had the Swing Stop right on the money.

NOTE: Before buying the Kreg trak system, I had watched the various videos but didn't realize the Swing Stop could only be used on one side of the saw or the other. That is if you are using the measuring tape to set the stop. The problem is there is only room for one cursor so you have to decide which side to set it up for. I have since ordered a second Swing Stop so I can use it on the right side of my saw.

First use of the Kreg System was to cut the face frames for the cabinets. That was a quick and smooth operation.

I mentioned earlier that I want to use the table for other things…like my pocket hole jig.

My next entry will cover building and installing the drawers for the miter station. The paint is drying as I type.

Thank you sir.

 

[MT_Stringer]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

 

[Handtooler]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

Mike you are doing some awefully nice and very useful work! Your organizational skills are taking over as you improve your shop. Very nice router table also. Your plans or some you obtained? And did you blog the construction?

 

[steliart]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

you are doing an excelent job, love the way you set it up

 

[Kentuk55]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

I like the way you've got your router table incorporated in there also

 

[harry1]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

I love your photo-shoot Mike and I've got two great ideas from you. I'm about to buy a Bosch GCM12GDL glyde saw and your cabinet looks ideal, also the tape rack, almost every time that I open a certain cupboard rolls of tape come flying out.

 

[MT_Stringer]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

@handtooler - the router table is all my doings. It is about 20×32. I glued two pieces of 3/4 inch mdf together, trimmed the sides/ends flush, then attached oak edge banding. After cutting and sanding all four corners, I laminated a piece of Formica on the top and trimmed with a flush trim router bit.

To attached the fence, I installed a pair of "T" tracks so the fence can be adjusted. The plate is the Rockler Group A (fits the Bosch 1617 router). I drilled a hole in the plate so I can adjust the bit height from above the table.

I already had mine built when I saw this video Steve posted on You Tube. You might get some inspiration from him.

 

[RibsBrisket4me]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

GO TEXANS!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[moonie]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

nice work thats thinking outside the box.

 

[Jenine]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

This whole blog is awesome. "Poof…a cooler". So cool. What kind of paint did you use…it looks like Milk Paint in Soldier Blue, but I could be way off. I am in love with Milk Paint lately - love how you can see the wood grain through it when it is mixed a bit on the thin side. This is just awesome, great work - great inspiration!

 

[MT_Stringer]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

Hello Jenine. The paint color is "Battleship Gray". To me it looks like it has some blue in it and the pics don't do it justice. I live just a few miles from the San Jacinto Monument and the Battleship "Texas" is berthed nearby it. So that was my reasoning behind the color choice. It does resemble milk paint.

 

[Nezzerscape]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

Is your router table fixed? If so how do you to do dado cuts and the like?

 

[MT_Stringer]

Face Frames and Drawers, Oh My!

I finished up the basic construction on the miter saw station and put it in service. I am loving it.

Using pocket hole construction, I built face frames for both of the lower cabinets.
Note: All of those clamps might be overkill but they kept my stuff where it was supposed to be.

Next it was time to build the drawers. Actually, there are two trays and three drawers.

I set up a dado blade on my table saw for a 1/2 inch cut. That allowed me to do two operations:

1. Rip the drawer pieces for the 1/2 inch plywood I used for the drawer bottoms.
2. Cross cut the ends of the front and back pieces only.
   I set up a stop block on the table saw fence so the boards would have some space between the end and the fence.

Don't laugh at the painters tape. It worked well as an "almost zero clearance insert".

I also made a simple tray for one of the drawers. It is holding the hardware for my next project.

And then i ran out of paint! :-(

If you remember, I wrote about the Kreg Precision Measuring System in my last entry. GAWD that thing is the cat's meow. I quickly cut the pieces to build a cooler. Then I realized I had lumber left over, so I cut most of the pieces for the next cooler. The first one is finished and out the door. I plan to start the assembly of the next one tomorrow.

I had to label the various pieces so I won't get confused.

And from that pile of boards POOF! Just like maagic, they turned into a cooler.

Next up in my makeover plans is to incorporate dust collection into the miter saw station. I will have room for the 1 inch belt sander and the oscillating sander.

I found a Fernco plumbing repair rubber boot at HD that is a perfect fit for my miter saw dust port. Inside diameter on both ends is 2 3/8 inches (for 2 inch PVC, I guess). That fit the dust port and the shop Vac hose is 2 1/4 inch diameter so it fits on that end also. Snug the clamps and it is a done deal.

...and temporary set up for my router table!!!

And last but not least, a new tape rack! I used a pallet board and some shaker pegs I had on hand.

Did I mention I am having fun? Well, I am.
Mike

Is your router table fixed? If so how do you to do dado cuts and the like?

- Nezzerscape

That router table has been replaced with this one.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/101964

However, most of my dado cutting is done with an exact width dado jig. Works great!
http://lumberjocks.com/thewoodwhisperer/blog/21254