[MT_Stringer]

Touch up painting and pegboard

Over this past weekend, I finished trimming out the cabinets that were built for the cubbie hole. The way I applied the trim, the cabinets now look like one. I can't image anyone wanting to take them down in the future.

Also, when I demoed the old work bench I took the existing pegboard down from the wall. I found a new home for it! It is now residing on a portion of the wall that is adjacent to a door. It has never been used because there is only a few inches of useable space. I now have a new home for some of my templates, track saw tracks and the pocket hole jig. It is working out nicely with no interference when opening the door.

Next up in this makeover is a new miter saw station. I am still thinking about it and sketching a few design options. I hope to get a good bang for my buck with room for storage in cabinets underneath the extension tables, shop vac beneath the saw, upper cabinets on the wall and possibly room for a couple of my sanders.

Thanks Bryan.

 

[rexb]

Touch up painting and pegboard

Over this past weekend, I finished trimming out the cabinets that were built for the cubbie hole. The way I applied the trim, the cabinets now look like one. I can't image anyone wanting to take them down in the future.

Also, when I demoed the old work bench I took the existing pegboard down from the wall. I found a new home for it! It is now residing on a portion of the wall that is adjacent to a door. It has never been used because there is only a few inches of useable space. I now have a new home for some of my templates, track saw tracks and the pocket hole jig. It is working out nicely with no interference when opening the door.

Next up in this makeover is a new miter saw station. I am still thinking about it and sketching a few design options. I hope to get a good bang for my buck with room for storage in cabinets underneath the extension tables, shop vac beneath the saw, upper cabinets on the wall and possibly room for a couple of my sanders.

I really like everything you've done so far, especially the two cabinets over your toolbox. I may have to steal your design…

Keep up the great work!

 

[MT_Stringer]

New Miter Saw Station

My next part of the garage makeover is to build a miter saw station. I bought the plans from Ron Paulk and studied them over and over and watched his videos on building his work bench. So, I finally used Mikey's Sketch pad to design my version of the miter saw station.

Here is my plan.

Sorry there is not a lot of detail in my plan but here is the jist of it.

• Build two cabinets that will be used for storing power tools and larger jigs and leave room for short cut offs 24 inches or less. Use 3" locking casters on the front.
• Add drawers or trays as necessary to make it easier to get to the tools such as the air compressor.
• Position Shop Vac in the area under the miter saw.
• Build the Ron Paulk version of The ultimate Miter Saw Station…with a few exceptions such as the width will be 24 inches instead of 18.
• Attach the miter saw station to the cabinets with 3/8" bolts.
• Build an extension table for the left side of the miter saw. Support it with Ron's saw horse as shown in his plans.

All of this planning sounds good except, I have made slight changes as I went along. Hopefully for the good. I am mainly using Ron's plans as a guide and to see his ideas of designing his bench and stand.

I have searched You Tube over and over watching videos until it all became a blur. However, I do like the ideas Jordan incorporated into his miter saw stand. I should also have room to set up my belt sander and maybe the oscillating sander. The more, the merrier.

Other inspiration came from the miter saw station built by Steve at downtoearthwoodworks.

Dust collection for this saw is #1 priority on my list. I already have the Shop Vac hooked up to it with the dust routed through the Oneida cyclone which works just great. I checked the vac and there is nothing but an empty bag in it. If I do set up a sander or two, I will most likely build some sort of short manifold so I can connect the tools to the Shop Vac also. That shouldn't be to hard.

But the main thing I want to do is build some sort of hood to catch the airborne dust and draw it downward into a port that will be routed to my Harbor Freight Dust collector. That is a work in progress. I think it is doable because there will be about 6 1/2 inches behind the miter saw station that I can use for plumbing.

Cabinet Construction
I have completed the carcases for the two cabinets. I used Birch plywood purchased from a lumber yard for $39.95 sheet. That is not too bad price wise.

Each cabinet has two sides and a center divider, along with a solid bottom. I connected these pieces with 4 inch stretchers also cut from the plywood and everything was joined together using pocket hole construction. Since I want these cabinets to be strong, I used some 1/2 inch plywood left over from another project to fill in the back of each cabinet. I used the Kreg micro pocket hole jig to drill the 1/2 inch pockets and one inch screws. That made the cabinet very strong.

I mounted some plywood pads under each corner of the cabinet to give the casters some extra meat so the lag screws will get a good grip.

And here we are, up to date. Both carcases are ready for drawers and face frames. I have them set in place and mocked up the saw, air compressor and the shop vac.

After the initial dry fit, I realized that I probably should shorten the overall length a few inches and leave room for the dust deputy to sit at the end which will make it really easy to empty. So I think I will shorten the miter saw Station overall length to 80 inches instead of the original 90. After doing some preliminary measuring, I will be able to have about 8 1/2 inches of full support for whatever I will be cutting with about 37 inches to the right of the blade and about the same to the left. With a short extension, I will be able to support a full 8 feet to the left of the blade and still have the garage door down. To the right, I can go out over 12 feet with no problem.

That brings the project up to date. I think I will ponder the situation and maybe go to the store and check out the HVAC metal stuff. Hopefully, I will be able to fit in the duct work so I can rout it to the dust collector.

I forgot to mention that the miter saw is brand new. I sold my original Harbor Freight model and bought the Hitachi 12 slider from the Big Box Store. So far, I really like it. Smooth, not too loud and the factory blade works surprisingly well. The main reason for purchasing the saw new was to gain about three inches of wall clearance with the two position slider. Maybe I can do a review after I have had it for awhile and get used to it.

 

[steliart]

New Miter Saw Station

My next part of the garage makeover is to build a miter saw station. I bought the plans from Ron Paulk and studied them over and over and watched his videos on building his work bench. So, I finally used Mikey's Sketch pad to design my version of the miter saw station.

Here is my plan.

Sorry there is not a lot of detail in my plan but here is the jist of it.

• Build two cabinets that will be used for storing power tools and larger jigs and leave room for short cut offs 24 inches or less. Use 3" locking casters on the front.
• Add drawers or trays as necessary to make it easier to get to the tools such as the air compressor.
• Position Shop Vac in the area under the miter saw.
• Build the Ron Paulk version of The ultimate Miter Saw Station…with a few exceptions such as the width will be 24 inches instead of 18.
• Attach the miter saw station to the cabinets with 3/8" bolts.
• Build an extension table for the left side of the miter saw. Support it with Ron's saw horse as shown in his plans.

All of this planning sounds good except, I have made slight changes as I went along. Hopefully for the good. I am mainly using Ron's plans as a guide and to see his ideas of designing his bench and stand.

I have searched You Tube over and over watching videos until it all became a blur. However, I do like the ideas Jordan incorporated into his miter saw stand. I should also have room to set up my belt sander and maybe the oscillating sander. The more, the merrier.

Other inspiration came from the miter saw station built by Steve at downtoearthwoodworks.

Dust collection for this saw is #1 priority on my list. I already have the Shop Vac hooked up to it with the dust routed through the Oneida cyclone which works just great. I checked the vac and there is nothing but an empty bag in it. If I do set up a sander or two, I will most likely build some sort of short manifold so I can connect the tools to the Shop Vac also. That shouldn't be to hard.

But the main thing I want to do is build some sort of hood to catch the airborne dust and draw it downward into a port that will be routed to my Harbor Freight Dust collector. That is a work in progress. I think it is doable because there will be about 6 1/2 inches behind the miter saw station that I can use for plumbing.

Cabinet Construction
I have completed the carcases for the two cabinets. I used Birch plywood purchased from a lumber yard for $39.95 sheet. That is not too bad price wise.

Each cabinet has two sides and a center divider, along with a solid bottom. I connected these pieces with 4 inch stretchers also cut from the plywood and everything was joined together using pocket hole construction. Since I want these cabinets to be strong, I used some 1/2 inch plywood left over from another project to fill in the back of each cabinet. I used the Kreg micro pocket hole jig to drill the 1/2 inch pockets and one inch screws. That made the cabinet very strong.

I mounted some plywood pads under each corner of the cabinet to give the casters some extra meat so the lag screws will get a good grip.

And here we are, up to date. Both carcases are ready for drawers and face frames. I have them set in place and mocked up the saw, air compressor and the shop vac.

After the initial dry fit, I realized that I probably should shorten the overall length a few inches and leave room for the dust deputy to sit at the end which will make it really easy to empty. So I think I will shorten the miter saw Station overall length to 80 inches instead of the original 90. After doing some preliminary measuring, I will be able to have about 8 1/2 inches of full support for whatever I will be cutting with about 37 inches to the right of the blade and about the same to the left. With a short extension, I will be able to support a full 8 feet to the left of the blade and still have the garage door down. To the right, I can go out over 12 feet with no problem.

That brings the project up to date. I think I will ponder the situation and maybe go to the store and check out the HVAC metal stuff. Hopefully, I will be able to fit in the duct work so I can rout it to the dust collector.

I forgot to mention that the miter saw is brand new. I sold my original Harbor Freight model and bought the Hitachi 12 slider from the Big Box Store. So far, I really like it. Smooth, not too loud and the factory blade works surprisingly well. The main reason for purchasing the saw new was to gain about three inches of wall clearance with the two position slider. Maybe I can do a review after I have had it for awhile and get used to it.

Excelent liter saw you have their and the projects looks great

 

[helluvawreck]

New Miter Saw Station

My next part of the garage makeover is to build a miter saw station. I bought the plans from Ron Paulk and studied them over and over and watched his videos on building his work bench. So, I finally used Mikey's Sketch pad to design my version of the miter saw station.

Here is my plan.

Sorry there is not a lot of detail in my plan but here is the jist of it.

• Build two cabinets that will be used for storing power tools and larger jigs and leave room for short cut offs 24 inches or less. Use 3" locking casters on the front.
• Add drawers or trays as necessary to make it easier to get to the tools such as the air compressor.
• Position Shop Vac in the area under the miter saw.
• Build the Ron Paulk version of The ultimate Miter Saw Station…with a few exceptions such as the width will be 24 inches instead of 18.
• Attach the miter saw station to the cabinets with 3/8" bolts.
• Build an extension table for the left side of the miter saw. Support it with Ron's saw horse as shown in his plans.

All of this planning sounds good except, I have made slight changes as I went along. Hopefully for the good. I am mainly using Ron's plans as a guide and to see his ideas of designing his bench and stand.

I have searched You Tube over and over watching videos until it all became a blur. However, I do like the ideas Jordan incorporated into his miter saw stand. I should also have room to set up my belt sander and maybe the oscillating sander. The more, the merrier.

Other inspiration came from the miter saw station built by Steve at downtoearthwoodworks.

Dust collection for this saw is #1 priority on my list. I already have the Shop Vac hooked up to it with the dust routed through the Oneida cyclone which works just great. I checked the vac and there is nothing but an empty bag in it. If I do set up a sander or two, I will most likely build some sort of short manifold so I can connect the tools to the Shop Vac also. That shouldn't be to hard.

But the main thing I want to do is build some sort of hood to catch the airborne dust and draw it downward into a port that will be routed to my Harbor Freight Dust collector. That is a work in progress. I think it is doable because there will be about 6 1/2 inches behind the miter saw station that I can use for plumbing.

Cabinet Construction
I have completed the carcases for the two cabinets. I used Birch plywood purchased from a lumber yard for $39.95 sheet. That is not too bad price wise.

Each cabinet has two sides and a center divider, along with a solid bottom. I connected these pieces with 4 inch stretchers also cut from the plywood and everything was joined together using pocket hole construction. Since I want these cabinets to be strong, I used some 1/2 inch plywood left over from another project to fill in the back of each cabinet. I used the Kreg micro pocket hole jig to drill the 1/2 inch pockets and one inch screws. That made the cabinet very strong.

I mounted some plywood pads under each corner of the cabinet to give the casters some extra meat so the lag screws will get a good grip.

And here we are, up to date. Both carcases are ready for drawers and face frames. I have them set in place and mocked up the saw, air compressor and the shop vac.

After the initial dry fit, I realized that I probably should shorten the overall length a few inches and leave room for the dust deputy to sit at the end which will make it really easy to empty. So I think I will shorten the miter saw Station overall length to 80 inches instead of the original 90. After doing some preliminary measuring, I will be able to have about 8 1/2 inches of full support for whatever I will be cutting with about 37 inches to the right of the blade and about the same to the left. With a short extension, I will be able to support a full 8 feet to the left of the blade and still have the garage door down. To the right, I can go out over 12 feet with no problem.

That brings the project up to date. I think I will ponder the situation and maybe go to the store and check out the HVAC metal stuff. Hopefully, I will be able to fit in the duct work so I can rout it to the dust collector.

I forgot to mention that the miter saw is brand new. I sold my original Harbor Freight model and bought the Hitachi 12 slider from the Big Box Store. So far, I really like it. Smooth, not too loud and the factory blade works surprisingly well. The main reason for purchasing the saw new was to gain about three inches of wall clearance with the two position slider. Maybe I can do a review after I have had it for awhile and get used to it.

It's really nice and will give your shop a lot of organization.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

 

[NormG]

New Miter Saw Station

My next part of the garage makeover is to build a miter saw station. I bought the plans from Ron Paulk and studied them over and over and watched his videos on building his work bench. So, I finally used Mikey's Sketch pad to design my version of the miter saw station.

Here is my plan.

Sorry there is not a lot of detail in my plan but here is the jist of it.

• Build two cabinets that will be used for storing power tools and larger jigs and leave room for short cut offs 24 inches or less. Use 3" locking casters on the front.
• Add drawers or trays as necessary to make it easier to get to the tools such as the air compressor.
• Position Shop Vac in the area under the miter saw.
• Build the Ron Paulk version of The ultimate Miter Saw Station…with a few exceptions such as the width will be 24 inches instead of 18.
• Attach the miter saw station to the cabinets with 3/8" bolts.
• Build an extension table for the left side of the miter saw. Support it with Ron's saw horse as shown in his plans.

All of this planning sounds good except, I have made slight changes as I went along. Hopefully for the good. I am mainly using Ron's plans as a guide and to see his ideas of designing his bench and stand.

I have searched You Tube over and over watching videos until it all became a blur. However, I do like the ideas Jordan incorporated into his miter saw stand. I should also have room to set up my belt sander and maybe the oscillating sander. The more, the merrier.

Other inspiration came from the miter saw station built by Steve at downtoearthwoodworks.

Dust collection for this saw is #1 priority on my list. I already have the Shop Vac hooked up to it with the dust routed through the Oneida cyclone which works just great. I checked the vac and there is nothing but an empty bag in it. If I do set up a sander or two, I will most likely build some sort of short manifold so I can connect the tools to the Shop Vac also. That shouldn't be to hard.

But the main thing I want to do is build some sort of hood to catch the airborne dust and draw it downward into a port that will be routed to my Harbor Freight Dust collector. That is a work in progress. I think it is doable because there will be about 6 1/2 inches behind the miter saw station that I can use for plumbing.

Cabinet Construction
I have completed the carcases for the two cabinets. I used Birch plywood purchased from a lumber yard for $39.95 sheet. That is not too bad price wise.

Each cabinet has two sides and a center divider, along with a solid bottom. I connected these pieces with 4 inch stretchers also cut from the plywood and everything was joined together using pocket hole construction. Since I want these cabinets to be strong, I used some 1/2 inch plywood left over from another project to fill in the back of each cabinet. I used the Kreg micro pocket hole jig to drill the 1/2 inch pockets and one inch screws. That made the cabinet very strong.

I mounted some plywood pads under each corner of the cabinet to give the casters some extra meat so the lag screws will get a good grip.

And here we are, up to date. Both carcases are ready for drawers and face frames. I have them set in place and mocked up the saw, air compressor and the shop vac.

After the initial dry fit, I realized that I probably should shorten the overall length a few inches and leave room for the dust deputy to sit at the end which will make it really easy to empty. So I think I will shorten the miter saw Station overall length to 80 inches instead of the original 90. After doing some preliminary measuring, I will be able to have about 8 1/2 inches of full support for whatever I will be cutting with about 37 inches to the right of the blade and about the same to the left. With a short extension, I will be able to support a full 8 feet to the left of the blade and still have the garage door down. To the right, I can go out over 12 feet with no problem.

That brings the project up to date. I think I will ponder the situation and maybe go to the store and check out the HVAC metal stuff. Hopefully, I will be able to fit in the duct work so I can rout it to the dust collector.

I forgot to mention that the miter saw is brand new. I sold my original Harbor Freight model and bought the Hitachi 12 slider from the Big Box Store. So far, I really like it. Smooth, not too loud and the factory blade works surprisingly well. The main reason for purchasing the saw new was to gain about three inches of wall clearance with the two position slider. Maybe I can do a review after I have had it for awhile and get used to it.

I started this reply yesterday, had to watch Steve's video, you did a wonderful work station, thank you for sharing

 

[Kentuk55]

New Miter Saw Station

My next part of the garage makeover is to build a miter saw station. I bought the plans from Ron Paulk and studied them over and over and watched his videos on building his work bench. So, I finally used Mikey's Sketch pad to design my version of the miter saw station.

Here is my plan.

Sorry there is not a lot of detail in my plan but here is the jist of it.

• Build two cabinets that will be used for storing power tools and larger jigs and leave room for short cut offs 24 inches or less. Use 3" locking casters on the front.
• Add drawers or trays as necessary to make it easier to get to the tools such as the air compressor.
• Position Shop Vac in the area under the miter saw.
• Build the Ron Paulk version of The ultimate Miter Saw Station…with a few exceptions such as the width will be 24 inches instead of 18.
• Attach the miter saw station to the cabinets with 3/8" bolts.
• Build an extension table for the left side of the miter saw. Support it with Ron's saw horse as shown in his plans.

All of this planning sounds good except, I have made slight changes as I went along. Hopefully for the good. I am mainly using Ron's plans as a guide and to see his ideas of designing his bench and stand.

I have searched You Tube over and over watching videos until it all became a blur. However, I do like the ideas Jordan incorporated into his miter saw stand. I should also have room to set up my belt sander and maybe the oscillating sander. The more, the merrier.

Other inspiration came from the miter saw station built by Steve at downtoearthwoodworks.

Dust collection for this saw is #1 priority on my list. I already have the Shop Vac hooked up to it with the dust routed through the Oneida cyclone which works just great. I checked the vac and there is nothing but an empty bag in it. If I do set up a sander or two, I will most likely build some sort of short manifold so I can connect the tools to the Shop Vac also. That shouldn't be to hard.

But the main thing I want to do is build some sort of hood to catch the airborne dust and draw it downward into a port that will be routed to my Harbor Freight Dust collector. That is a work in progress. I think it is doable because there will be about 6 1/2 inches behind the miter saw station that I can use for plumbing.

Cabinet Construction
I have completed the carcases for the two cabinets. I used Birch plywood purchased from a lumber yard for $39.95 sheet. That is not too bad price wise.

Each cabinet has two sides and a center divider, along with a solid bottom. I connected these pieces with 4 inch stretchers also cut from the plywood and everything was joined together using pocket hole construction. Since I want these cabinets to be strong, I used some 1/2 inch plywood left over from another project to fill in the back of each cabinet. I used the Kreg micro pocket hole jig to drill the 1/2 inch pockets and one inch screws. That made the cabinet very strong.

I mounted some plywood pads under each corner of the cabinet to give the casters some extra meat so the lag screws will get a good grip.

And here we are, up to date. Both carcases are ready for drawers and face frames. I have them set in place and mocked up the saw, air compressor and the shop vac.

After the initial dry fit, I realized that I probably should shorten the overall length a few inches and leave room for the dust deputy to sit at the end which will make it really easy to empty. So I think I will shorten the miter saw Station overall length to 80 inches instead of the original 90. After doing some preliminary measuring, I will be able to have about 8 1/2 inches of full support for whatever I will be cutting with about 37 inches to the right of the blade and about the same to the left. With a short extension, I will be able to support a full 8 feet to the left of the blade and still have the garage door down. To the right, I can go out over 12 feet with no problem.

That brings the project up to date. I think I will ponder the situation and maybe go to the store and check out the HVAC metal stuff. Hopefully, I will be able to fit in the duct work so I can rout it to the dust collector.

I forgot to mention that the miter saw is brand new. I sold my original Harbor Freight model and bought the Hitachi 12 slider from the Big Box Store. So far, I really like it. Smooth, not too loud and the factory blade works surprisingly well. The main reason for purchasing the saw new was to gain about three inches of wall clearance with the two position slider. Maybe I can do a review after I have had it for awhile and get used to it.

Coming along nicely

 

[MT_Stringer]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

 

[Handtooler]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

Great Blog! In-depth info/instructions and super pics. It gave me some much needed knowledge on adding a pedestle unit to a previous desk I constructed years ago. Thanks for your efforts.

 

[whitebeast88]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

its coming together nicely,can't wait to see it finished.thanks for sharing.

 

[steliart]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

WoW! It will be a great station, niceeeee!!!

I got very interested to have a look at your assembly table with the holes and t-tracks, but it was not in your projects, could you present that to us when you can?

 

[Kentuk55]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

Nicely done.

 

[moonie]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

nice build so fare but Im waiting to see how the track is installed.

 

[MT_Stringer]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

Here are a couple of pics of what will be discussed in the next segment. Just a tease.
Still installing the Kreg Trak. But the rest is good to go.

 

[Handtooler]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

WOW! What a wonderful piece of shop equipment! You'll really enjoy that. VERY nicely done, Sir

 

[NormG]

New Miter Saw Station - Construction Details

I have been working diligently trying to get this phase of the makeover finished.
Here are some pics of the construction.

Case work with drawer slides ready for drawers or trays.

Top of the cabinet. The miter saw portion will bolt on to the top of the two cabinets.

Laying out the templates for the sides and ends. Dang that MDF makes a lot of dust.

Rough cutting the openings so I can route 'em smooth using the template I cut from MDF.

Two routers are better than one! Here I was routing the pieces for the sides and ends of the miter saw stand. When I finished routing a piece, I would use the other router to do a little round over to ease the sharp edges. Then I would move to the next piece and repeat.

Time to drill a few pocket holes. Check out my air filtration unit in the background. Don't laugh, it works great.

Dry fit. I cut the two tops for the stand and set the saw in place to see how it would fit.

More construction pics coming soon including the final assy and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak. Rockler had a 20% off sale going so I couldn't pass up saving almost $25 on the Trak.

Great addition

 

[MT_Stringer]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

 

[GoWinLions]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

Love it!

 

[moonie]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

nice build you have used alot of ply wood on this one.

 

[helluvawreck]

Assemblying the Miter Saw Stand

As promised, here are some pics of the construction of the miter saw stand. If you remember from the first entry, I am using the plans from Ron Paulk to go by. However, I have made some changes to fit my situation. So this stand is kind of a cross between his workbench and his miter saw stand.

Onward and upward…

In my last entry, I made a couple of templates out of mdf to use when cutting and routing the parts for the stand. I forgot to include pics of them, so here are the pics of the templates after they had been fabricated.

To make them, I laid out the dimensions and cut a 5 inch hole on each end with a hole saw. Then I used a straight edge to mark in between the circles. I cut just inside the line with a jig saw, then attached the guides with double stick tape and ran the router along the edges with a flush trim bit attached. They actually turned out pretty good.

With all of my parts cut, I started the assembly by building each side of the stand. I turned the top upside down and attached the front, back and side pieces with pocket screws. I used some glue but pretty much abandoned it after slicing my finger wide open when I was in a hurry (glue setting up) to drive the screws and literally drove the screw past my index finger on my left hand. Dang that hurt…and I bled like a stuck hog. First Aid to the rescue. Thank goodness for a caring wife.

I managed to get both pieces of the top together without further incident.

I sat them aside and concentrated on the base of the stand. It is a single piece of 3/4 plywood 80 inches long by 22 1/4 wide. I positioned it on top of the two lower cabinets and bolted it to them with 8ea 5/16 inch bolts.

Next, I glued and screwed the two frame stiffners to the bottom. I scrounged up some 2×4's to make some simple caulls.

I gave the glue about an hour and a half to dry then turned the bottom over and drove the rest of the screws.

With the bottom complete, I turned it over on top of the two top pieces and screwed through the bottom into the frame members of the two tops. I used a lot of drywall screws for this operation.

These pics show the stand completely assembled and bolted together.
Yep… it's dead level. Guess I lucked out this time.

My next entry will cover the construction of the fences and the installation of the Kreg Precision Trak System.

This is a nice crosscut table and you did a fine job on it.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com