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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
 

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Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
You could put a fence on it with two toggle clamps: one on the fence and a mobile one on the other end.
 

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Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
I use one to break down big sheets of plywood, straightening boards, making a straight edge on live edge boards, etc. The only problem is they are so quick and simple to make… so I buy a piece of hardboard at Lowes, screw a 1X4 piece of something else to the top, cut off one side with my power saw, then it's ready to use… Only later when I need some hardboard to make a template for routing some part… Yep, you guessed it. I use my edging jig and a few templates later, I need another one. I'd have to make one out of metal.
 

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Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
Why not have the clamp slide in a t-track on the bottom to make it useful for varying lengths of material?
 

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Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
I made a guide like this a few hears ago to use with a 1/4 inch "V" groove bit in my router and later with a 1/4 inch Fluting bit and the other side of the guide I cut of with my circular saw for ripping long boards. I have had very good results with double stick carpet tape to hold it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
Good thought Joel, I didn't think it would need it, but your right, there could be some movement from vibration.

LOL, nice Hal, its the law of importance, what is more important right now! I was concerned with the hardboard wearing too quickly and getting dinged up, but your's dont last that long I'm guessing :)

Stoli - I was thinking about that too, but I had one problem with it:
1. How to lock down the toggle clamp in the t-track so that it wouldn't slip.

I haven't had much success with double stick tape, GranpaLen.. too sticky! :)

Thanks all, keep the ideas coming. Love to keep the old noggin fresh and running!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brainstorming for ideas...

Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use.

This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8' so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of plywood going across the jig to aid squaring up on one edge while the other side has the toggle clamp. On the top side the other edge could be used as a long guide for a router.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Laptop Rectangle Parallel Laptop part Metal


Bottom side with toggle clamp:

Rectangle Triangle Slope Parallel Automotive exterior
New chapter…
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Version 2.0

And the brainstorming continues:

After much thought, the necessary thickness to recess the t-track would make the jig too thick to allow for use with the router, there simply would not be enough depth left to work with. Why build just a sawboard?

On to version 2.0:

This sawboard would double as a routerboard on the left side. Base made up of 2 lengths of 3/16" hardboard glued together. Guide on top would be 1"x2" aluminum rect. tube with a groove cut out for 4 feet, same on base in that area such that a 1/4" bolt could pass through. The top would still have a t piece across to register one side of the ply to be cut. The bolt would attach to a block below and then be tighten from above allowing a fairly quick adjusting jig. Maybe not as quick as the toggle but not too bad. Wondering if there will be too much play/angle splay to keep the piece restrained - any thoughts would be appreciated. I will call tomorrow to source the tube for pricing. Maybe even smaller like 1/2"x1" or even channel if its cheaper.

 

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Version 2.0

And the brainstorming continues:

After much thought, the necessary thickness to recess the t-track would make the jig too thick to allow for use with the router, there simply would not be enough depth left to work with. Why build just a sawboard?

On to version 2.0:

This sawboard would double as a routerboard on the left side. Base made up of 2 lengths of 3/16" hardboard glued together. Guide on top would be 1"x2" aluminum rect. tube with a groove cut out for 4 feet, same on base in that area such that a 1/4" bolt could pass through. The top would still have a t piece across to register one side of the ply to be cut. The bolt would attach to a block below and then be tighten from above allowing a fairly quick adjusting jig. Maybe not as quick as the toggle but not too bad. Wondering if there will be too much play/angle splay to keep the piece restrained - any thoughts would be appreciated. I will call tomorrow to source the tube for pricing. Maybe even smaller like 1/2"x1" or even channel if its cheaper.

I have built a bunch of these. I just use MDF with a center piece of the same MDF. I bang em beat em leave them on jobs, the back of trucks, run over em cut the wrong way on em (that ruins em too). I would not go to too much trouble making one they take too much of a beating but nice design.
 

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Version 2.0

And the brainstorming continues:

After much thought, the necessary thickness to recess the t-track would make the jig too thick to allow for use with the router, there simply would not be enough depth left to work with. Why build just a sawboard?

On to version 2.0:

This sawboard would double as a routerboard on the left side. Base made up of 2 lengths of 3/16" hardboard glued together. Guide on top would be 1"x2" aluminum rect. tube with a groove cut out for 4 feet, same on base in that area such that a 1/4" bolt could pass through. The top would still have a t piece across to register one side of the ply to be cut. The bolt would attach to a block below and then be tighten from above allowing a fairly quick adjusting jig. Maybe not as quick as the toggle but not too bad. Wondering if there will be too much play/angle splay to keep the piece restrained - any thoughts would be appreciated. I will call tomorrow to source the tube for pricing. Maybe even smaller like 1/2"x1" or even channel if its cheaper.

Like Jumbojack, I make mine all out of MDF.

I found (through experience) that using 1" tubing for the fence will restrict full depth cuts with the circular saw because the motor housing hangs over the fence. Unless you're using a wormdrive saw, I found this annoying and scrapped the tubing.

I also found the T-fence problematic. You should probably make it wider than the jig or you will find that over an 8 foot jig, your cuts won't be square.

Like you, I make mine two-sided and use the router on the other side. Be sure to mark the jig with what router (if you own more than one) and which router bit you use.

Another consideration is to make multiple jigs of various lengths. I also made a 5 foot jig for crosscutting plywood and a 2 foot jig that I use for shelving, etc. The come in real handy.

I'm sure you will love using these. Very handy to use and they remove so much of the frustration of trying to cut straight lines!

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Version 2.0

And the brainstorming continues:

After much thought, the necessary thickness to recess the t-track would make the jig too thick to allow for use with the router, there simply would not be enough depth left to work with. Why build just a sawboard?

On to version 2.0:

This sawboard would double as a routerboard on the left side. Base made up of 2 lengths of 3/16" hardboard glued together. Guide on top would be 1"x2" aluminum rect. tube with a groove cut out for 4 feet, same on base in that area such that a 1/4" bolt could pass through. The top would still have a t piece across to register one side of the ply to be cut. The bolt would attach to a block below and then be tighten from above allowing a fairly quick adjusting jig. Maybe not as quick as the toggle but not too bad. Wondering if there will be too much play/angle splay to keep the piece restrained - any thoughts would be appreciated. I will call tomorrow to source the tube for pricing. Maybe even smaller like 1/2"x1" or even channel if its cheaper.

Thanks fellas. I am glad that you brought that up Dave! The motor will overhang the fence and I didn't even give that a second thought because the current sawboard is just 1/2" ply with a ply fence. It was a simple jig I made years ago but it has been worth its weight in gold!! I just ordered myself a replacement circular saw as my old one has a wobble that makes the kerf nearly 3/16" :-( but the old sawboard seemed to help keep that under some control.

What was the problem with the t-fence? I was primarily using it as a stop because the underside would have that sliding stop that would tighten from the top.
 
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