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Miter Station Work Bench

2508 Views 36 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  The__Dude
I have limited room in my shop area, so I wanted to build a work bench that can hold a miter saw.

I came across some cheap 3/4" plywood, so that is what I will frame it with.
I used 2×4s to create a base.
It will have 2 foot wide compartments underneath. Probably add shelves.

Any suggestions on attaching the 3/4" plywood to the 2×4? and to each other.
Should I pocket screw all of these?

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glue and pocket hole screws would most likely hold it but you may want to think about putting some strips or triangles in the corners for a stronger joint.
It's a shop cabinet, not fine furniture. I wouldn't waste the pricy Kreg screws and I would just use glue and drywall screws, (predrilled near any edges). Put a back on the cabinet to keep it square.
I didn't want to waste wood with a back on the cabinet.
I do have some 3/4" plywood strips from ripping the sides.
They are 6" wide strips.
I can add some of those.

I could screw and drill the sides into the base.
Then screw the base into the 2×4's

I have been reading on making cabinet carcass, and it seems I am doing this backwards!
I am planning on 3/4" plywood for the top and adding melamine to it.
I worked some more on it.
Top support board is for the top
Bottom/middle board will support the full plywood shelf.
One shelf in each box/hole

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I did not screw of glue to saw portion yet.
But something I did not think about is the swing of the saw.
If I mount towards the center of the table, then I cannot swing it 45 degrees.

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If I have it pulled forward it works fine, but the handle would stick out for storage.

So I think I will make a stop block and slide the saw up to the block when I want to use it.
Then slide back when I am done for the day.

Or I cut handle clearance in the sides? But that does not seem like a good idea.

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just butt screw the sides into the bottom like standard cab construction.
It looks like you can just pull the saw forward and have clearance, but if you plan on upgrading to a slider with more depth of cut you may not be able to do that.

You can also have your saw shelf flush with the bench top and just make some supports to hold your lumber as you cut it.
I thought about the supports ontop of the cabinet, Not sure I want to do that.
I like the idea of sliding the saw forward to a fixed stop.

I have about 1" of clearance I need to shim to make it level with the future top.

I don't see myself ever getting a sliding saw, and if I did it would be that compact bosch.
The bench is 36" deep.
....or push it back to where you want and cut a notch out of each side panel to clear the lever. As long as you can see the scale you're good. If you plan on screwing a fence down to your outfeeds that will give you the most usable space on the counter for other things.
If I have a fence it would be removable.
Was thinking of installing track in the top of the table.
Table needs to be able to be converted to an assembly bench, as I am out of room in the shop.

I was looking and I don't have enough cheap 3/4" plywood for the top.
Was looking at the store today for something smooth and level.
Might go with MDF for the top? And a cover over it?
I have been using the wrong term for the top I want.
It is tempered hardboard.

So maybe a sheet of 3/4" plywood, then 1/4" tempered hardboard.
Not sure how to finish the edge face. I can use some wood for it.
But I don't own a router. So something I can cut with my table saw.
That would be fine, when the 1/4 layer gets beat up down the road it's easily replaced. I'd just grab some cheap 1×2 pine strips for the edge or rip some pine down.
Are there different grades or standards for tempered hardboard?

And will plywood be straight enough for a top?
Take a look at this post link This will give you some ideas before you go to much farther. Below is a picture of mine from last year. You can also do a search to find many more, some very creative and exquisitely built. My top is built with 2 layesr of 3/4 MDF, glued pine as the surround for stability and Formica on the top as well as the fence.

Wood Gas Machine Audio equipment Hardwood


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I have 3/4 plywood and 3/4 MD screwd and glued.
Now for the replace able hardboard.I bought the thicker version.

Spray adhesive?
Some screws?
Wood Floor Flooring Wall Hardwood

I've used Pocket Screws for similar construction with real good lasting results


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