Last year, I wrote regarding several issues I was having with my Kobalt 10" Sliding Compound Miter Saw. I have a new one now thanks to Kobalt's no-questions-asked 3 year full warranty. The saw was two years old, I went onto Lowe's and walked out 10 minutes later with a brand new saw completely free of problems… Almost ;-).
This is an issue that mysteriously appeared on the last saw I had as well. I have full clearance for the carriage to retract fully, but the saw always leaves a 1/8" sliver on the bottom back corner. I have already moved the fence as far forward as possible, and I max out the reach quite a bit so an auxiliary fence is t really an option. If any of you have had this problem and overcome the tragedy of not being able to complete the cut, please let me know
This really is a very decent saw, especially for the price. Once dialed in, when you adjust the miter angle and return it to 90 again, it will be square within 2 thousands if an inch. Action is solid, smooth, and power isn't really a concern unless you're cutting 3×12 stock. I made the zero clearance insert, it didn't come with that.
Once this issue is resolved, I should have a perfect saw to work with.
I am not sure I fully understand the problem. It sounds like no matter the position of the fence, the through cut is not complete where the face of the workpiece meets the fence and the table. If I understand that correctly, it sounds like the depth stop and/or maximum depth of cut stop(s) is out of adjustment. If the depth stop or the maximum depth of cut setting keeps the blade from setting far enough below the table, the cut may not be completed.
This diagnosis could be easily tested by making a cut with the test workpiece resting on a piece of scrap wood, thus elevating the test workpiece. If the cut in the elevated test workpiece is a good cut, then I would think the depth stop or maximum depth of cut stop is the source(s) of the problem.
Page 21 of the on-line manual describes how to set the maximum depth of cut on the Kobalt 10" sliding compound mitre saw.
I do not own the saw, but I gave my son this saw as a gift. I have used it and must agree, it is packed with value.
DirtyMike: It's a 10" 80 tooth Freud Diablo Blade, and it's awesome ;-)
JBrow: I checked into that before, but never saw it in the manual (thanks for including the page number, it saved a lot of time) and the stop has excess clearance. As you can see in the photo, the frame prohibits any further adjustment as the parts of the frame that support the stop and the depth limiter are making contact before the stop is.
Only reason i ask about the blade is because other folks have had the same problem with different saws. When the stop is set to such close tolerances a true 10 inch blade is needed. I watched a bosch axial review where a guy had the same problem and it was from his frued blade being undersized.
DirtyMike, you just might have something here. I don't remember this saw having any issues with the stock blade in place, I'd bet the problem started after I swapped them out. I'm checking the sizes now…
You were right! I have the 60 tooth stock blade in my table saw. I took it out, and it's the same amount bigger than the amount of material left at the edge of the workpiece. I need the Freud on the miter saw, so guess I'll have to make a 1/8" auxiliary fence. It's still really nice to know what the problem is. Thank you guys! Check out the photo, the Diablo is nearly 1/8" smaller than the stock Kobalt blade. (And yes, they are both overdue for cleaning)
No Sir, I will never own a forrest blade. I compared my undersized diablo 1050x to an amana 80 tooth and a frued thin kerf glue line rip. Even my cheap black friday avanti blades were a true 10 inch. It may just be that the frued diablos are slightly smaller.
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