[je_an]

Hello,

I'm about to build a set of bi-folding closet doors. Each panel will consist of 9" x 80". I'm concerned the panels might warp since they are narrow and long.

I think one post suggested letting the wood dry and plane it on both sides. Unfortunately I do not have access to planer or joiner.

Is there somethings I can do to minimize warping with limited tool set? Would using plywood better than wood strips for the frame? The doors will be painted and mounted using bi-fold door hardware.

Thank you so much for your help!

Edit:
Bi-fold door: This is due to space issue. Large door(s) will collide with the bedroom door. Pocket door is not an option and I don't want barn door or sliding door.
Painted: This is the look I want. I love beautiful wood furnitures, but do not like wood grains on the wall. Sorry, I hope it doesn't offend anyone.

 

[Unknowncraftsman]

Yes there is something you can do if you want to build with flat straight wood.
Buy a jointer and planer.
This was discussed a couple weeks ago. My suggestion was and still is to sneak up to your final width and thickness. Pick wood with riftsawn grain. It's usually attached to the edges of wide board.
Pick wood that's dry and oversized for your project store it properly.
Last but not least say a prayer, take your vitamins and hope for the best .
Good Luck

 

[RichT]

I have never had a residential door I've built warp. The frame and panel construction makes it very stable. Take a look at my projects to see the type of doors I build if you wish.

I will say that the panel layout you're planning is going to make glue up quite a challenge if you don't go about it properly.

 

[Unknowncraftsman]

I looked at your bifold door Rich. Thats very cool design I like it.
I'll try to get a decent pic of my laundry's rooms bifold doors tomorrow.
Good Luck

 

[SMP]

Limited tools? Plywood or mdf panels with molding glued on and brad nailed.

 

[CWWoodworking]

Might want to post thickness, material, and finish.

Some suppliers can do the dimensioning for you if you don't want to buy jointer/planer.

You could possibly use plywood for majority depending on design. Probably not easier gettting it to stay flat.

 

[je_an]

Thanks for your replies. Buying planer/joiner is not an option. No space and can't justify as a hobbyist. I wish there is a shop near me where I can rent the area by the hour.

@SMP, @CWWoodworking,
Would gluing multiple sheets of plywood be more stable than using dimension lumber? I am also thinking of adding some sort of metal ribbing on the backside to help it stay flat, al though I have not found such a product yet.

Thickness: 1 to 1.5 inches
Material: Softer wood preferred (again, due to limited tools)
Finish: paint

I don't expect this to be perfect. I just wanted to make it as best as possible with my resources. I have built 9 foot barn door, which one is showing slight bowing, but it doesn't bother me too much though.

Thanks!

 

[controlfreak]

If the rails and styles are straight the panels will be fine and plywood will work well and be stable. How are you going to make the frame? The only way I know is by mortise and tenon. I am counting 40 of them assuming there are no redos. Unless you really want a challenge or have a domino I would start at the lumber yard and see what they can order for you.

 

[je_an]

Thanks. It's the rails and styles (frame) that I was concerned about warping. Sorry, by panel I meant the actual door, not the panel inserts that go between the rails and styles.

I just stopped by at HD and I think I have some options for metal rib backing if I really need something.

I am going to use an unconventional design you guys will probably laugh at but I think it will work.

Thank you so much!

 

[northwoodsman]

Just an idea, but it's one of my pet peeves on this site, list your location in your profile! Chances are that there is someone in your area that has the equipment that would help you out for a six pack or a gift card for a few cups of coffee. This door looks to be fairly heavy once completed, don't skimp on the hardware. If you are just going to paint it, have you considered a pre-built door from one of the DIY home centers?

 

[je_an]

@northwoodsman
Good idea. I added my location. Hopefully someone near me will let me borrow his shop for some beer or rental fee. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Oughtsix]

For a painted door I think I would go with some kind of sheet good for dimensional stability and to prevent warping. Maybe MDF with wood inserts on the edges for holding hinge screws? Plywood might work. Bondo does a really nice job of filling the grain and minor voids in plywood edges then sands smooth quite easily after a few minutes of curing. We went to an open house once that had hand made doors thorugh out. Almost all of them had some warping.

I would not count on metal reenforcement to keep the door straight. I don't see how they would fold with angle iron or the such on the back.

 

[Oughtsix]

For a painted door I think I would go with some kind of sheet good for dimensional stability and to prevent warping. Maybe MDF with wood inserts on the edges for holding hinge screws? Plywood might work. Bondo does a really nice job of filling the grain and minor voids in plywood edges then sands smooth quite easily after a few minutes of curing.

We went to an open house once that had hand made doors thorugh out. Almost all of them had some warping with the front door being the worst.

I would not count on metal reenforcement to keep the door straight. I don't see how they would fold with angle iron or the such on the back.

If it were me I would probably laminate 3 or 4 strips of thin wood for the framing then cut them down to size after the glue has dried. I have a jointer, planer and track saw to trim the pieces down to nice straight laminated boards though.

 

[controlfreak]

My house is over 100 years old and when I moved the kitchen to another room I needed some matching doors. My local lumber yard, not a big box, had a catalogue with enough samples in it that I got very close to exact match and had options for solid or hollow. Very inexpensive and they had them in three days. That's the route I would go before making painted bi-folds.

 

[je_an]

@Oughtsix
Thank you. Interesting idea. What would laminating strips of wood do instead of using solid frame? I'm guessing multiple strips neutralizes each layer's tendency to bend in certain direction? If so, can I just use plywood? Glue 2-3 strips of 1/2 plywood? One concern I have with using plywood as frame is if the edges can hold the screws. The bi-fold hardware has screws that go in the top edge of the frame and the door hangs from the rails running on the top.

@controlfreak
Thank you. I did visit to our local lumber yard a number of times. I think it will be quite costly to custom build or have wood milled. I definitely want painted look and need bi-folds due to space issue.

 

[controlfreak]

Sorry I didn't know you had a custom size opening but you do have a limited amount of trim room if you can get close.

 

[RichT]

Four 9" x 80" panels adds up to 36" by 80". Hardly a custom opening for a door. When I make doors, I allow 1/4", meaning that for a 36" opening, I build a door that's 35 3/4" wide. That's a common figure if you look around. In your case, you'll need to allow some relief between each door unit as well. If you build four 9" units for a 36" door opening, it's not going to work.

I fear you're getting well-intentioned advice, but some that's not based on experience and, in my opinion, flawed. For example, the thin strip reinforcement that's later milled off will serve no purpose other than to complicate the job.

I'm probably wasting my breath, but I'll say it again. I've never had a door warp, but that panel layout you have is going to give you headaches during assembly. I also think your proportions are off on the rails.

If you're going to build that door, I strongly recommend building it as one piece and ripping the four units apart after it's constructed. If you build them individually, you'll have problems getting it all to line up.

I constructed this door as a single unit and ripped it in half. It fits in a 24" wide linen closet opening.

 

[je_an]

@Rich
Thank you. Yes, 36" is not custom, but 4 door panels to make up 36" seems custom. I am aware the measurements need to be adjusted to account for HW or whatnot. These are just basic measurements I used for design and to explore construction options. I will definitely measure the openings more accurately before delving into the actual construction part. And practice "measure 3x and cut once" mantra! Lol

Thank you everyone for all your inputs. I think I have a plan now. Hopefully all works out. Thanks again!

 

[controlfreak]

Interesting Rich, I would lay all the styles side by side and used knife nicks to align all rails. Never dawned on me to make as one and rip it. Nice door, what are those panels on top made out of?

 

[Oughtsix]

@Oughtsix
Thank you. Interesting idea. What would laminating strips of wood do instead of using solid frame? I m guessing multiple strips neutralizes each layer s tendency to bend in certain direction? If so, can I just use plywood? Glue 2-3 strips of 1/2 plywood? One concern I have with using plywood as frame is if the edges can hold the screws. The bi-fold hardware has screws that go in the top edge of the frame and the door hangs from the rails running on the top.

- je_an

Laminated wood is MUCH stronger and MUCH less likely to warp than a single solid piece of wood. When I said that I would use laminated wood I prefaced it with "If it were me" because I have a jointer and planer which I understand you do not have. In my shop I would probably get some pine and plane it down to 1/2" or 3/8" then glue the faces of the pieces together. When I do this I make sure the glue up is flat because any bow in the glue up will remain in the laminated wood and be impossible to get straight without jointing it flat then planning it to a uniform thickness. I would make the glued up pieces wider (not thicker) than the final dimension I want so I could trim them to width. To get a straight edge on one side of the laminated board you might consider a straight edge clamped to the laminated board as a router guide. Once you have a straight edge you can cut to width with your table saw. Screwing a straight edge to the laminated piece then running the first side through the table saw with the known straight edge against the fence is another way to get a straight cut without a jointer.

Plywood is laminated wood hence its strength and dimensional stability. Good plywood has very tight dense laminations. Cheap "shop grade" plywood has a ton of voids in it and requires a good amount of wood filling (I like Bondo) of the edge voids before painting.

I too would worry about trying to screw into the side of plywood. I would consider routing out same large pockets in the edges of the doors where you want the hinges to go and fill those pockets with glued in solid wood pieces to accept the screws. Here again a jointer and planer would be very helpful so you could fit the solid wood piece into the pocket instead of cutting the pocket the exact right width to fit the thickness of the stock you are going to fill them with.