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After doing a lot of researched for SCMS I decided to buy the Makia LS1016L last night. I am trying to figure out if the one I got has a problem with the Bevel "Latch Lever" as they call it in the manual, or if that is just poorly engineered. Basically, the latch is there to lock at indents if you pull it forward or allow any bevel angle if pushed back. When I pull my forward it locks at the preset bevel locations, but it doesn't flip back smoothly when I disengage that. If I simply push it back, it my not disengage and may pop back forward. I have to push it back and hold it there while I then move the head to another bevel angle and then it seems fine. Did I get a dud, or is this how it is supposed to work?

Jonathan
 

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I also just recently purchased one of those saws and IMO the Owners Manual is one of the worst I've ever seen. The Japanese to English translation is very confusing at times and appears to me that whomever did it has little knowledge of English technical terms. It sounds to me like you're talking about the knob that is on the front of the saw, correct? If so then you not only need to push in on it to lock the table into place you also need to turn it counter clockwise. To release the table from the locked position you'll need to turn the knob again but this time in the clockwise direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response, but no the controls at the front of the saw are for the miter angle. I'm refering to the bevel angle controls at the back of the saw. The bevel is controlled by three items: 1) a push button that controls whether it can bevel to the left of not. 2) the locking lever at the very back that tightens everything down to lock in the bevel. 3) the 'latch lever' that is right near the bevel scale. That latch lever is what I'm referring to and it controls whether the saw stops at bevel indents. After locking on a bevel in dent (when that lever is pulled forward), when I push the lever back to allow me to use any bevel angle, it doesn't release smoothly and I have to hold that lever back and move the bevel angle. Otherwise if I just push the lever back it wants to pull forward and stick in the indent locking mode.
 

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I went and played around with my saw but don't have the problem you described with mine. The only issue I had with mine, and I don't really think it is an issue, was that the latch lever was a little hard to release from the locked position. However, I think that was because the saw is new and that the lever will loosen up with time.

FWIW, this is my second LS1016L. The first one I bought had to be returned the next day because of a burr on the RH side fence assembly that prevented me from installing the RH fence. If something like that got by Quality Control than your issue could certainly be a defect also.
 

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I have a Makita LS1013 and a LS12?? (the 12") The first saw is great but by the time I picked up the second saw a few years later Makita was already cutting corners and the bevel action you speak of is not as good as on the first saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again syenefarmer. I appreciate your checking yours. Now that you mention it last night my latch lever was hard to release also. I had to push really hard to get it to release. Ever since that, it releases easier but not smoothly and sometimes calls back to lock position if I don't hold it down and then change the bevel as I described above. I think something got bent/broken in side there when I forced it unlock. I maybe swapping mine out this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went back to HD and swapped out the saw for another one. The lever does work better. However, I'm just not that thrilled with the LS1016 and may return all together. I'd heard for years how great Makita tools are, but this one doesn't seem any better for similar saws that are less expensive. I really may go for the Ridgid 10" that has all the bevel controls up front. I know it doesn't have the Makita reputation, but saw for saw I think it gives me more for the money.
 

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Craftsman70, I'm curious as to whether you returned the Makita and went with the Ridgid? If you did, how do you compare the two? I also looked at the Ridgid slider but in my case I decided against taking the gamble on a brand new product vs the well received Makita. MY HD was running a special on the Makita so for me the difference in price was only $50 which was another reason I went with the Makita. If you bought the Ridgid how about a little review comparing the two saws to one another?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Syenefarmer, I've gone back and forth over it in my head but not returned it again.
My current thinking is this: I'm not sure how good Ridgid is anymore, so I can't say their reputation helps or hurts my decision, but I agree that the new 10" saw just hasn't been out long enough to tell if it will hold up. I like that the Ridgid has up front controls, an LED light, and dual lazers. But the fit an finish of the Makita is nicer, better polishing and such. I could live with the less polished Ridgid. I was going to buy the Ridgid and took one more look at it and got hung up on the fence. The fence just isn't very substantial like the Makita and Dewalt fences.

Now if only Dewalt would come out with a 10" version of the DWS780.
 

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I have an LS1214L bought in 05, I've been trying to figure out what you guys are talking about. My saw doesn't have bevel indents and the latch locks and unlocks only. Sounds like Mak out clevered themselves and just made the new tools more complicated.
 
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