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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
I had the same problem before I hollowed out the wedge, as soon as the wedge made a good grip on the front of the blade it was making shavings, and no mor digging.
But yes I think it is why the old English planemakers only made the low angle versions in wood and metal as a combo.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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3,002 Posts
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hollowing the wedge did help a lot but the hole for the shavings is probably too big so the pressure is minimal even with making the wedge a bit concave. Increasing the bed angle 5 degrees will add something like 75% more strength to the blade's bed.

What are your thoughts?
 

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Joined
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739 Posts
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi Dave! My 2 cents for what it is worth: First, welcome to the wonderful world of wooden plane making! Your problem is caused by the fact that the blade does not get enough support near the mouth. Two reasons, the hole is way too big as you concluded and the wedge too thin. I also feel that the piece of wood supporting the blade underneath is too thin and will ultimately flex. Increasing the bed angle will indeed strengthen the plane considerably.
With a 35 degree bevel and what? 10 - 15 degree bed angle you end up with 45 - 50 degrees. Not at all a low angle plane! Might as well build a 45 degree bevel down plane that is much stronger!

Please don't consider your project a failure because it isn't. What a fantastic way too discover the geometry and workings of planes! The next one will be better. My very first plane was a miserable failure and worse, I didn't have LJ's to help me! I still have it after all these years, just to remind me about the start of my journey.
Happy plane building!
 

· Registered
Joined
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3,002 Posts
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Thanks Div, the blade angle was 23 degrees originally and changed it to 35 to see what would happen. This actually gave me better shavings but the bite of the blade was so little that it sometimes didn't catch the wood. When extended a .001 more ( a light tap on the front), the shavings were .05 thick. With a .125" thick blade, this indicates the plane's bed is flexing not the blade.

The geometry seems to be in a range of 5-10 degrees. When you start extending that range the various grains of the wood starts to make a different set of challenges. The pieces of wood that I test on is poplar, cherry, and maple. The poplar makes a good test wood because it is soft enough to really gouge if the conditions are right.

As an added benefit to this, one of the scrap pieces of the blade was salvaged - by design. I have to make a handle for it when I get my lathe out of the corner but I made a really nice marking knife blade. Starting with a .125" thich piece makes a narrow blade that doesn't flex. When I make the handle, I will post it.

You know, between you and Mads, I am making too many of my own tools. I have been corrupted. Thank you.
 

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Joined
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11,636 Posts
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hey Mads, this is an intriguing thought from the Sauer and Steiner blog:

Wood Rim Kitchen utensil Tool Auto part


I'm sure the wheels are actively turning in your head. My next homebuilt will incorporate this idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Al pls give me a link.
Looking sweet, and yes those guys rock!
Wabadauuu.
Mads
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
11,636 Posts
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2010/11/shaker-bench-restoration-home-stretch.html

Scrub plane Plane Wood Tool Rebate plane
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
STOP!
I cant take it.
Please stop!!!
My God.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
And that bench is a bench to die for.
Roubo go home - OMG.
Smile here,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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4 Posts
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Doc, I think I got a bigger problem, and that this is the reason why they are usually made bevel up and not down - how do I get the mouth small enoug when the bevel will be agains the mouth… Here I will get in trouble. I m sure I will not be able to get that super tight mouth then. So this supports my theory that the wedge hole must be bigger, acually so big that the blade can come in that way. That is the solution, but to late for this one - laugh! I love to learn, life is sweet when we learn the hard way, an have fun as we do it.
I ll make a correction to the blog right away!!!
Best thoughts,
Mads

Maybe you could make a brass piece to cover the front of the opening. I have seen that some wooden planes have such.

- mafe
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9,309 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
good advice on the cutting of the metal
that is a world i know little about

always just hacksaw
what i need
for rough stuff

i don't even have a bench vise
(or any vise for that matter)

will have to see about that soon
 

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Joined
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3,487 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
I never would have thought of doing this with an old blade. I also have a lot of extra block plane blades so I think I will give this a try. Thanks for posting and sharing
 

· Registered
Joined
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2,806 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Very smart.
 

· Registered
Joined
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878 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
I'd go with the metal saw instead of the soft dremel discs, the harder ones work far better and last waaay longer, but a good metal saw remains the easiest and cheapest ways to do that (and then you can finish up the edges with the dremel)
 

· Registered
Joined
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9,509 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Looks like your making good progress Mads. Are you going to square the non-cutting end of the blade? (Thinking of using a hammer to adjust blade)
 

· In Loving Memory
Joined
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8,391 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Thanks for this blade making part of your blog Mads. I don't have an extra block plane blade, but I do have a regular sized extra one. I thought I might try one of those diamond cutting disks for this job.
 

· Registered
Joined
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1,398 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
11 cutting discs. I hope they are cheap in your area.

Thanks for sharing.
 

· Registered
Joined
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321 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Another great tutorial Mads. Keeps enlarging my never ending to do list.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
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11,636 Posts
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
I'm in; cutting my blade tonight (hopefully).
 
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