Hi Mads, thanks for showing my plane. I must say, they have evolved a little since that one! You might want to consider chamfering the hole the help with ejecting shavings :^)Making the body part one.
Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….
Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
Here is a video showing it in action.
But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
Enough theory let's get to it!
Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.
Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.
I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
Now fit a pin in the hole.
And cut off.
Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
Time for tobacco.
Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
Here we are.
Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
Put the body apart.
And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
Now it's the top piece tour.
And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
Dipping in glue.
And hole in one…
Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
Thank you div for playing with me my brother.
I share Doc's consern re the small amount of wood supporting the blade. I tried this once but my glue line failed. As Doc rightfully points out, having a 30 degree ramp and bevel down will make for a stronger, longer lasting plane whilst giving the same cutting angle. Maybe the epoxy you are using will do a better job. Only one way to find out!!
I also thought of the mouth problem but I'm sure you will sort it out!
Good pictures, and plenty. Took my slow connection a while to open it but I had to see what you are up to! Enjoy your build!