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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi guys just a litle update with some words that Doc and I shared on the subject (he have allowed me to post the mails):

Doc wrote:
xxx I am curious about making a wooden plane with that shallow of a bed angle. One of the reasons that we don't often see really old planes (wooden) with low bed angles like that is that it leaves a very thin amount of wood supporting the blade (the bed) due to the shallow angle. I am sure that low angled planes were made, but maybe have not survived because of the reason that I just stated. I wonder if this might be on of the reasons that later we see infill planes with steel and iron added and then of course, later, we have the iron bodied planes?

Mads wrote:
Thats interesting thoughts.
And yes I think it must be one of the reasons, but I think also that it was just not made and thought of, that the other types of planes could handle the problems so why bother… I do not know, just guessing.
I look forward to try this plane out, I think it will be stron enough, but only time will tell that (I used some relativly hard wood).
xxx

Doc wrote:
I sent my question to the old tools guys and I will keep you posted on the responses that I receive. I also posed the question a different way. It occured to me that all of the low angle (12 degree bed angle) planes that I have ever seen, always present the iron to the work, bevel up. It occurred to me that it might be possible that plane makers may have made planes with bed angles lower than the traditional 45 degrees, possibly as low as 30 degrees, but with a bevel down configuration. This would achieve the typical 30-35 degree cutting angle found in most low angle planes while still allowing for more support for the iron. We shall see what these guys have to say about it. Some of those guys are pretty knowledgable about the old ways of things.

Mads wrote:
This I have seen.
Otherwise they used to make the iron skewed, and then get the higher cutting angle that way.

Just thought it was interesting to share.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Doc, I think I got a bigger problem, and that this is the reason why they are usually made bevel up and not down - how do I get the mouth small enoug when the bevel will be agains the mouth… Here I will get in trouble. I'm sure I will not be able to get that super tight mouth then. So this supports my theory that the wedge hole must be bigger, acually so big that the blade can come in that way. That is the solution, but to late for this one - laugh! I love to learn, life is sweet when we learn the hard way, an have fun as we do it.
I'll make a correction to the blog right away!!!
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
David, you can just have a heigher wedge and come in from the back, I have seen old planes like that, a moveable mouth would be optimal, but I want this plane to be simple so every one can make it.
Will make a drawing later, have to run for my daughter and the fysio after.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi guys,
Here is my conclusion on the low angle version in this PDF
So it is really possible.
I think the biggest problem is not the bed that seem quite steady, and I promise you that the epoxy will never be the pint of failure.
I think it is fun to try this version even it seems to end up giving me a headache or two.
And since I am not just making solutions here with my blog but also confusion, I have decided to make a drawing with measures so there will be no confusion or mistake if you follow this.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi ho hi ho,
Div my dear brother, I will never make any changes to that plane I treat it like a baby and show it to all that enter my work shop, and many look right past the rows of metal planes on my wall and right at your little planes and say 'what are those beautiful little planes', to me they are priceless even if I make a hundred my self. Your link should have been in the text on top of the page, now it is added there sorry I simply forgot.
I have now solved the mouth problem and will insert the blade from the back and not the front as I thought, this you can see in the PDF I posted, dam I make life hard for my self by doing things new ways, but aint it just all the fun at the end? ... Laugh.
dbray45, I do not see how I should solve the problem with a thicker blade bevel down, since I have a bed of 12 degree, and the hole idea of me doing it as a low angle is to test it agains a bevel down version. Don't try and stop me I have only just begun - lol big time.

But to any one else than me who wants to build one before I finish mine, go for a 40-45 degree bed and bevel down, this wil save you the same frustartions as I had.
Later I will blog pictures of the solution so it will be a choice to do the one or the other.

Cher, you lucky woman! Yes no one will be better to help you in getting after using and sharpening a plane than Div, so you are in good hands, wish I could join the two of you.

Bertha, if you are impatient do as I write just over here. The brass rod you can buy in any model store.
Ian, cool! I'm fighting here.
Mike, yes it could have been fun with you on the team also, and Div as the teacher here. I think LJ should have made his blog into a class. Enjoy the flowers, and kiss your wife, this is not the worst to do eigther.
David, just a big hug for you.
Doc, it was some interesting mails, that made my head think, I love that.
Broglea, all that love, I smile here.
Beginningwoodworker, as soon as your floor stops I think you should.
BKO, me also right now I dont really know how it will look… Thank you, I love to draw.
Thomas, you will be busy!
Tinnocker, yes it would be nice to share a good coffee, and knock some wood. Div's blog is still active, and he don't make mistakes like me! Laugh here.
Thank you all for the comments, I'm so happy to see that Div has made this wave that now goes deep into the roots of LJ and we will soon all be well off with shoulder planes, low angle or not.
And thank you Div for beeing the inspiration that made me go on this, I wish only I could be a better listener…
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
David, trust me, I try! Laugh.

Look what I just posted on Div's blog:
Grrrrrrrr,
I work on three different models now, two in real progress, one dumped… My workshop is a mess and I am sure I have wild eyes and look like a mad scientist. Nothing seem to work now!

Wood Hand tool Hardwood Wood stain Tool


But I still try, and I still have a wonderful time as I go after new ideas.
(I might end up throwing the towel and make it bevel down!).
Yes I am a mad man I know, and you are allowed to laugh as long as you do it sweet.

Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Do you know the song 'I belive I can fly'?
This is how I feel now!

Wood Beige Bag Khaki Hardwood


The answer was right under my nose.
I did it!!!
It's making wonderful shaves,
Jubiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
MaFe in space!!!
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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· Registered
Joined
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Brown Wood Beige Rectangle Cuisine


Now dinner!
 

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Joined
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Div, it is a video showing it in function, and as Wayne say 'Sounds just like a plane should sound'.
Wayne, thank you!
Big smile,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi David,
I made a 25 degree bevel and a extra 5 micobevel as I remember.
Did you finish your plane?
Mine took a little running, at first it dig in to the wood but it was just until I got the wedge hollowed a little so it made a good preasure on the font of the blade, so it was not due to the angle or blade, but because it was not sitting firmly enough. The key to the lowangle to be working is this.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
David you are between two chairs now…
With the really low angle you can only attac endgrain with sucess, but this takes that you hold the blade really solid.
So yes the wedge needs to be hollow a bit so it touch down in the front and back first when pushed in place.
Thre mouth on mine is app. 1,5 mm from the tip of the blade to the plane body opening and this works fine even it is quite big (I thought it would be a problem).
Best thoughts,
Look forward to follow.
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi David,
I think you made a wonderful little plane there, congratulation you are now a plane maker!
When I see the plane the first I notice is that the wedge is really thin, I think you need a higher wedge to make a more strong hold on the blade.
You can try as a test to make the wedge hole higher and then see if it is enough.
Or if you really want to trash it, then try and put a screw right down the plane so that this will support the blade front, I am planning to make this in a more thought out way on one of my next low angles.
I think your mouth acually looks fine, like as if it was on purpose.
Cool stuff give your self a clap on the shoulder you acually build a shoulder plane!
Best of my thoughts,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
I had the same problem before I hollowed out the wedge, as soon as the wedge made a good grip on the front of the blade it was making shavings, and no mor digging.
But yes I think it is why the old English planemakers only made the low angle versions in wood and metal as a combo.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Al pls give me a link.
Looking sweet, and yes those guys rock!
Wabadauuu.
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>


I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
STOP!
I cant take it.
Please stop!!!
My God.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Making the body part one.

Low angel shoulder plane
Because it's fun….

Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.


Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.


This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.


This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.


Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.


Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
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I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

Enough theory let's get to it!


Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.


Like this.


Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).


The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.


Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.


Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.


Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.


I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.


And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.


With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.


Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.


Now fit a pin in the hole.


And cut off.


Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.


Time for tobacco.


Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.


Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.


Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.


Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.


And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.


Here we are.


Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.


And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).


And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.


Put the body apart.


And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.


Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.


I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.


Now it's the top piece tour.


And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.


Clamped up.


Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…


So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.


Dipping in glue.


And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
And that bench is a bench to die for.
Roubo go home - OMG.
Smile here,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
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Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
 

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Joined
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6,114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Making a blade from another plane iron.

Low angel shoulder plane
Making a blade from another plane iron.

This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.


This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.


Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).


Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.


I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).


Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.


Mark this out on the blade.


Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.


Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.


And also the shoulders of the iron.


Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.


This is what it should end up like.


Now correct the sides.

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content

Flatten the back of the iron.


And here we are!


And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

Thank you div for playing with me my brother.

Best thoughts,
Mads
Hi there,
Yes the iron is a sweat deal, no problems there.
Cher, glad I have a frind in the water. I am a cancer by the stars, perhaps thats why I love that water grinder!
Bertha, go for it!
Fernando, ohhh I know that list too well.
Ian, yes it is the cheap crappy that have no reinforcement inside do not worry, I just have app 400 of these so I'm not buing the more expensive before they are gone.
Mike, yes any Iron will do. And yes a diamond sounds better than all the change of disc.
Wayne, yes I will cut the other end straight also but I want to know where it ends first, since I work by heart and not by drawing on this project (probaly a really bad idea).
Thomas yes but the saw blade need to be hard then.
RG, you give me wonderful names today… Smile.
Dan, money makes the Dremmel spin arround… the Dremmel spin arround… the Dremmel spin arround.
David, yes a benche vice is a wonderful extra hand for so many tasks.
Thank you all for your comments, I'm happy if it will end up beeing the shot that made some blades get recycled.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
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