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Looking for Infinity Cutting Tools Lock Miter Master Jig

3441 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Andybb
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I've searched the archives and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I would like to buy a lock miter bit and I did some research. The one I thought was the easiest to set up was from Infinity. I saw demos and videos on it's set up and use. The problem I have is every time I saw a link where someone was singing it's praise, the link was dead. I can't even find it on Infinity's site, do they make them anymore? I see they still sell the block type, but not the aluminum one with magnets. Does anyone know where I can find one? Thanks.

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Don't waste your money. It's useless to achieve the tolerance you need for a perfect lock miter joint.

Instead, check out my blog post here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/111009
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I have the one I bought from Rich and it's not for sale. It's a cool precision feeling way overpriced tool. I think I used it once. You don't need it. It does work, but so does the plastic block that comes with it seen below in the middle picture, and Rich's method works great without spending any money. I've used all 3. Same results.

So, as Rich said, save your money and follow his method.

What you need is a lift that will let you micro-adjust the bit height and some well-made jigs to run the stock past the bit. Even though Rich will probably disagree with me, any method you use will not be right to start with. They all require about the same amount of micro-adjustment. But when they are perfect, it's a beautiful nearly invisible thing. Then you make a hardwood template when it's perfect and use that without measuring if you don't have the plastic block.

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Thanks guys. I think the Infinity web site was down when I looked the other day. I'm not sure if this bit is worth the trouble, I'll have to think about it.
They are super simple to set up with a set of offcuts the same thickness of your material:

https://emgw.org/Resources/Documents/Papers%20and%20Articles/LockMiterBitSetup.pdf

EDIT:

I should add I also always double-side tape a piece of masonite (temper board) to the outside faces my pieces (cut to the exact same dimensions). This provides a flat surface to ride against your router table and fence when making the cuts versus riding on the sharp corner. Results are always perfect.
Thanks guys. I think the Infinity web site was down when I looked the other day. I m not sure if this bit is worth the trouble, I ll have to think about it.

- awsum55
Once you learn the technique it is absolutely worth it, especially if you're making small jewelry box drawers and boxes. They really look professionally done. This was my first attempt after seeing a jewelry box in a store that used them. Not a good joint for larger projects IMO.
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The lock miter joint is really strong and easy to glue square. The downside, in my opinion, is that the profile needs to be hidden with regular miter molding when the joint will be exposed.
Looks as if I have the dissenting opinion here. I like the infinity jigs.

At first blush it might seem pricey, but have you priced machine shop work lately ? Ask to have a piece of aluminum precision ground and marked and let us know the quote you get. Then go price out anodizing. Then tell me how much a couple of small ,thin magnets cost.

As far as usefulness, well…............. I just disagree with Rich. I find his $60 wixey gizmo worthless, but that's what makes America great. Lots o ways to skin a cat. A digital setup gauge is no more or less useful to achieve the tolerance you need for a perfect lock miter joint. It's simply a different kind of useful. Both methods will get you darn close off the bat. You'll still need to micro adjust to get it perfect whichever method you use.

Thing is, the jig will get you roughed in a lot faster. Like the digital measure, it can be used for practically any bit and material thickness. Those UHMW blocks (or your DIY ones) are only useful for your bit and the same thickness material. And we all know how consistent wood thickness is. And if I want to use 1/2" or 5/4 - then it's a no go or I need to make different blocks.

Oh, and I forgot to say that the jig can be used to setup offset miters for things like adding a roundover afterwards or joining two boards of different thicknesses. That ain't as easy with the digi gauge.
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I just disagree with Rich. I find his $60 wixey gizmo worthless, but that s what makes America great. Lots o ways to skin a cat. A digital setup gauge is no more or less useful to achieve the tolerance you need for a perfect lock miter joint. It s simply a different kind of useful. Both methods will get you darn close off the bat. You ll still need to micro adjust to get it perfect whichever method you use.

- xedos
You clearly fail to understand the purpose of the whole method. It's not to use the gauge on every setup to get the bit and fence adjusted based on test cuts. You are profiling your bit and developing two equations based on the thickness of the board-one for the bit height and the other for the fence. You only go through the full process once for the bit.

I can measure the board thickness, apply the formulas and set up the bit and fence in a matter of minutes. I don't even make test cuts anymore. It's a waste of time.

Thing is, the jig will get you roughed in a lot faster. Like the digital measure, it can be used for practically any bit and material thickness…...

And if I want to use 1/2" or 5/4 - then it's a no go or I need to make different blocks.
Right here is where you're on the wrong track. That jig will get you roughed in. My method will get you zeroed in on the first try.

What if I want to use 1/2 inch? I apply the formulas to that thickness, set the bit and fence, and I'm routing joints in less than five minutes. I don't have to give up and call it a no-go. That sort of shortsightedness will prevent you from ever moving past the beginner stage.
This conversation reminds me of doing dovetails. More than one way to skin a cat. There are a million jigs for cutting dovetails but Paul Sellers does them freehand in minutes better than a PC jig. If I use Rich's method they come out great but it takes me longer to remember how to do it because I only do it a few times a year. It takes me just as long to use one of the other methods as it does to remember how to do Rich's method. Rich's method works great for him cuz it's his method so he doesn't have to think about it.
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