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Laundry hamper

25190 Views 294 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  DavePolaschek
6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…

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8
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
So I made a sketch (four squares….
Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern

- Dave Polaschek
You gotta get into SketchUp (or similar)... Ideal for quick dirties, easily modified, can be shared and the file will be long available after that scrap paper becomes land fill.

And don't use that argument that it's too hard… you don't need the level for developing the next spaceship for Mars.
Basic sketches can be mastered in a few hours and stick to 2D… then you can get cocky and add that extra 1D.

Think of it this way… You have to get books and read, to familiarise with SketchUp!

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
IT'S TOO HARD DUCK ! sketchup is for girls.mine are all drawn on a cocktail napkin because thats what i always have handy.
nice start dave.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
IT S TOO HARD DUCK ! ...
- pottz
Leave your cocktaits out of this.

Your Maloof Rocker was probably hard, however, dare i say, you didn't girlie out of that. New tricks can be beaten into old dogs... and I don't mind being a girl… love my nightie.

Sorry for the digression DP... that pottzy likes to speak his mind… the one he forgot he left at home.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
I'm not going to pick sides here Dave, but will say my personal preference is the quadrille paper, or 4 squares to an inch, that you used. It's fast and I mainly use it to determine cutting dimensions. By the time I'd learn AutoCAD or Sketchup, I'd be too old to do the woodworking.
Looks like you're off to a good start.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
I go to the shop to get away from computers, Ducky.

Life's too short. I'll use paper. When it's wrong, I can set it on fire.

Pottz, it's not too hard. But I strongly prefer paper.

Thanks, Tom. I may end up with tweaks to the design, but that's what erasers are for.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
not that im totally againts sketchup i just dont do much in the way of drawings period.at most i do a simple sketch showing dimensions and the rest is in my head.the way ive always done it,seems to work for me.although ill admit id probably eliminate a lot of mistakes if i did.but what fun would that be-lol.

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8
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
not that im totally againts sketchup …
I just feel that I'm remiss if I didn't review/suggest more modern techniques to some of our aged LJ members (no implies here DP)...

If it wasn't for upgrades, we'd all be using that B&D Orange Drill, with just a tad of runout, to make that 1/8"... sorry, 3/16"... oops again, 1/4"... 5/16"... damn, 1/2"... sound better in metric.

Next I'll be reprimanded for NOT selfishly asking my 2B wife,
Cartoon Moon Art Painting Happy


if she had strong hair!

Move to SketchUP is nearly as easy a transition as a western saw upgrade to a Jap Saw.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
Life's too short. I'll use paper. When it's wrong, I can set it on fire.
- Dave Polaschek
May you be protected form the greenies and Greta Thunberg... life may just get shorter!

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8
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
not that im totally againts sketchup …

I just feel that I m remiss if I didn t review/suggest more modern techniques to some of our aged LJ members (no implies here DP)...

If it wasn t for upgrades, we d all be using that B&D Orange Drill, with just a tad of runout, to make that 1/8"... sorry, 3/16"... oops again, 1/4"... 5/16"... damn, 1/2"... sound better in metric.

Next I ll be reprimanded for NOT selfishly asking my 2B wife,
Cartoon Moon Art Painting Happy


if she had strong hair!

Move to SketchUP is nearly as easy a transition as a western saw upgrade to a Jap Saw.

- LittleBlackDuck
oh jeez (eye's rolling)

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
Life's too short. I'll use paper. When it's wrong, I can set it on fire.
- Dave Polaschek

May you be protected form the greenies and Greta Thunberg... life may just get shorter!

- LittleBlackDuck
forget about greta she got a spanking and was sent to bed !

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
No, Ducky, I'd be using my Ixion drill that I refurbished.

Sketchup, or switching to a Japanese saw would be a step backwards.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
No, Ducky, I'd be using my Ixion drill that I refurbished.

Sketchup, or switching to a Japanese saw would be a step backwards.

- Dave Polaschek
nice restoration dave,she looks like new again.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
Dave, This load of dirty washing has gone off the rails for sure.

Me, I'm a pencil and paper bloke!

New things on the computer do my head in, but saying that so does reading plans.

I hope you can get this project sorted quickly satisfying all of them above with a first class result.

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8
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
Dave, This load of dirty washing has gone off the rails for sure.

Me, I'm a pencil and paper bloke!

New things on the computer do my head in, but saying that so does reading plans.

I hope you can get this project sorted quickly satisfying all of them above with a first class result.

- crowie
crowie, it pleasant to hear that there are members here at LJ that joined before the advent of computers.

As for the laundry,
Poster Art Thigh Illustration Font


I believe rc already has that dirty linen (un)covered,

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
Thanks, Pottz.

Thanks, Peter. I don't hold much hope, especially as I don't generally make plans, and I have a number of interruptions at home in the next few weeks. I almost wish we had a lockdown so I could concentrate on my work in the shop. Or perhaps I could get a supervisor like yours to keep the interruptions at bay. Part of why I sketched plans at all is that I knew I would be interrupted and this way I don't have to go back and measure the laundry basket every time I forget how big things need to be.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
This is interesting Dave. Ours is over 40 years old and we got it as a wedding shower gift. I asked my wife many years ago to make a new one and she said don't you dare. I'll have to see the finished product.

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
Thanks, Dave! I'll try to keep up with the building process as I go.

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12
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
I guess you could say I enjoy SketchUp myself…....

Rectangle Parallel Font Pattern Plan


Rectangle Office equipment Font Electronic device Office supplies


Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Font

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6
Introduction and doors

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.

Rectangle Font Schematic Parallel Pattern


Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.

Table Wood Wood stain Rectangle Hardwood


I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…
free note pads from all of the people begging for money and a pencil = sketchup

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