Oh what a great tutorial, Tony! When I saw the topic, I just had to read it wondering just what the heck could Tony be asking help for on cutting boards? Then I read it saw you were helping us! I'm very grateful for this post. Excellent information!Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Lattice Cutting board Help
8
Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Tony -Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial! The detail of your instructions and photos is impressive. I think we will be seeing some more impressive cutting boards in the future!
Tony, you just made me want to build some of these.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Great detail in the "tut" where is counts.
Thanks
Bob
Great work Tony. Now we understand the mystery of your cutting boards! Well Done. It is amazing how much work is involved with these, but when you see the end results it was worth it.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Bill, I guess it is about 4 to 5 hours work in total, spread over 2 days. But as you said the results justify the work.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Thanks Tony. I was about ready to tackle figuring out how to do one of these. Thanks for the time saver.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
how wonderful!!Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
I agree with everyone else Great Tutorial. I have some Walnut and Wild Cherry and was looking for an interesting way of using it to make a cutting board. Thanks for the Ideas.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Thanks Tony for the tutorial.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
nice work Tony !! looking forward to seeing moreLattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Thanks for showing us this Tony!Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Hey TONYLattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
I added a link to my cutting boards.
Maybe it will help folks make a few and we will see their examples posted here soon
Regards
DAN
Thanks Tony for the easy to follow instructions. We'll see if I can follow them. Great seeing all the good stuff here, Thanks to you as well Dan for leading the way!Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
I know this is an old post but it is a good one, thanks for the details, I will try to follow themLattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Thanks for the great write up. This will give me the encouragement to try this out soon.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
cool blogLattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Tony thanks for the info. Been wanting to make one of these for awhile.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Tony, how did you glue it all together, all at once or in stages?Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
Gosh that is a question!!!! This was nearly 3 years ago and I have not made one since - Re-reading my original post I am pretty sure that I glued all the blocks in place at one time.Lattice Cutting board Help
Update: 7 september 2010. As I do not have a lot of spare time for woodworking at the moment, I am submitting this blog for the contest, I hope you guys don't mind that it is a little old
Here is a link to the final projects-
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2542
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/2559
http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/9436-438x.jpg?1233630507
After several e-mails requesting the plans for the Dan Walters cutting board I copied I decided to put some information together to get people started.
The first thing to decide is what size of board you want as this will dictate the stock you need. Or the stock you have will dictate what size cutting board you can make.
Stock selection: you need to have a good contrast between the different woods used. The wood selected should also be hard woods, but not necessarily too hard. OAK, ASH and BEECH are very hard and durable, but Cherry, Mahogany and Alder are hard wood s, they are not so durable.
When the stock is selected for use, the first thing to do is prepare a plan so you know what size to cut/prepare everything!
You can get a better picture from here ( http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi/Boards/Ken%20Walters%20-%20Latice%20-1.jpg)
The plan above it what I used for the layout of the larger of the two boards I made.
Before we start cutting wood, the saw blade must be exactly 90° to the bed of the table saw. The mitre gauge must be exactly 90° to the saw blade, even a 0.1° error will show up in the final product.
Here you can see the prepared stock, with the walnut glued to the Ash. The stock is thicknessed on the planer at the same time, with the same settings. The stock is then ripped on the table saw again using the same settings - we have to be micrometer perfect.
Now we can start to cross cut. Ensure that the length of the crosscut is exactly the same as the width of the stock.
Cut enough square parts as per your plan, in my case 8 Ash & Walnut and 24 Bird Cherry
Next set up the length of the long pieces 15 in total. You need to be accurate here, just setting 4 ½" is not enough. Take the long piece against 3 of the blocks you have cut and check that they are perfectly flush.
So before we continue we have to clean up the blocks. Small whispers of fibre as shown below will play havoc with your assembly. I used 180 grain sand paper for this, be careful not to round the corners.
BEFORE
AFTER Really clean edges
The blocks are assembled and to check for the fit before applying the glue.
I stopped taking photographs at this point. The glue a used on the first board was polyurethane and the second a D3 waterproof PVA. The open time of the polyurethane is better for this assembly.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and clamp. I laid the whole piece out on a sheet of plastic (to stop the glue sticking to my workbench) and clamped in the vertical and horizontal axis.
If everything is cut exactly correctly, then the blocks should not lift under pressure, if they do - using a block of wood and a mallet tap the back down to be flush with the adjacent blocks.
You could add a lot and I mean a lot of weight on top of the blocks to keep them in place (about 50lb/25kg per block)
Leave it to dry, overnight is always good, then you can remove the clamps and start the clean up.
I used my belt sander with 60 grit to start, then 80 and finally 120, grain, then went onto my random orbit sander and started with 120, then 180, and finally 240. Then onto my small oscillating finishing sander with 240 and 320 grit - do this on both sides.
WARNING - If you use the belt sander the wood will get quite hot, if you have used PVA glue, this may reactivate the glue softening it, this can cause the stresses in the wood to bow, buckle you flat finish, if this does happen just place a clamping caule over the high spot whilst the wood is still hot, correct the error and wait for the for the board to cool down, it will flatten out again (PVA glue can be reactivated with heat many days after it cures).
So both sides of the board are now flat and parallel! Now start the finishing in accordance with the instructions on the packet/Tin. Take your time and you will end up with a work of art, that is too good cut fillet steak on.
I hoped this helped those of you who just needed a little guidance.
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