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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
 

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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Paul, I to am building a complete set and would love to see the photos and a detailed description of how and what you did along the way including any bumps in the road and what you did to overcome.
 
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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Sounds like a great blog.
 

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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Paul, your cabinets sound like an interesting project. I am looking forward to seeing pictures of them.

By the way I agree with you about using 3/4 ply on the cabinet carcass. It probably is an overbuild and does add a little to the overall cost but I firmly believe that this is the way to go with cabinetry.
 

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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Photos?
 

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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
I meant to ask do you pre-finish your sheet goods first. I was thinking of doing 3 coats of poly before I assemble this time for a change. Are you using pocket hole screws? I 86'ed the biscuits idea for the face frames on this job no sides will show.
Lets see them pictures
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Hello all, I stayed up late last night watching the Olympic opening ceremonies, and will try the photos later today. I've got to get to the gym for a workout shortly. Thanks everyone for your patience !
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
For my previous corner base cabinet (again…photos to come on that one too) I covered all the dadoes carefully with blue painters tape…to keep the poly from getting on the gluing surface. Also, all the intersecting glue edges were also carefully covered with tape.I one does not cover those areas, they will not hold properly,as the glue adheres to the poly and not the wood. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO DO THIS. I chose high gloss poly,as this corner base cabinet sides will not be visible. I did 3 coats; allowing at least 24 hrs. between them; a light sanding to remove small imperfections and little dust bits, a good wipe after sanding with a slightly damp cloth,5 min. dry, and add another coat etc. A final sand after the 3rd coat, and wait 2 days before removing the painters tape. Now you're ready to assemble.
Photos to come soon at a theatre near you :)

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Hello friends,
Well…FINALLY, i managed to worm throuth the techie stuff and attach 2 photos. If anyone wants details, please ask.

Paul :)
 

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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Hey Paul
Thanks for the Photos ,Looks good. You talked about reading books about cabinets If you still want one There are Two I recommend One by Jere Cary and "Building traditional cabinets " by Jim Tolpin.
I've found great bargins on Half.com
 

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upper corner kitchen cabinet dry fit with some work to be done

I've been slow in building my kitchen cabinets, but I've made some progress. This blog is a few photos of the upper corner cabinet. I've bought and read many wood working books; each seemingly leaving me with questions or concerns, so I just kind of did this on my own. So far…so good. I'm an advocate of 3/4" plywood for all cabinets. I know it's overbuilt, but they will last, and not fail in any way. No special strips needed to mount; just a level sill to hold them in place.
I used 3/4" birch ply, dadoed 3/8" inset for the top, and 1.250 inset from the bottom (to allow for under cabinet lighting)
The photos here are of a "dry fit" carcass. I checked for plumb & square, and they are dead on. I still have to cut the top and bottom on an angle, add a cherry hard wood edge, and design and build the face frame.
This is the first of the upper cabinets, and I have a little dilemna; I decided to make the depth of them 13". That causes the door on the this cabinet to be only 13" wide, and that's before the face frames. (I still might reduce the side walls an inch to allow for a wider door…but not sure yet). I know the
Jim I have Jim Tolpin's "Building traditional cabinets " I got it for $5.00 used on Amazon I see they still have a lot of them left (20 used from $3.26)

Paul Very nice job on the cabinets so far. You should be dead on with that cabinet saw.
 
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