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Hey everyone,

I use minwax wipe on poly quite a bit and like it for the most part. I have repeated issues with lint from the application rags getting trapped in the finish. I knock down the nibs between each coat and it works except for the lint. It really gets stuck in there. Any secret weapons to keep the lint out of the finish? I've heard pantyhose around the rag?

Thanks everyone
 

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The smart-ass answer would be to use lint free cloth….easier said than done. But very well worn tee shirts are fairly lint free. A better approach (IMHO) is to not use a cloth pad. Instead, get a roll of those blue shop towels sold in the auto dept at Walmart (and pretty much everywhere else) and use them. They are lint free, and disposable, and cheap. I use one towel at a time, folding it into the pad I want. I put it in a sandwich bad between coats, and then use it again. After a set of 3 coats, it gets left out to dry and then tossed. Try it at least once and judge for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool. I was thinking about the lint free microfiber cloths, but those are too pricey to use and throw away all the time. I wasn't aware that those blue shop towels were lint free. Good to know.
 

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Don't use any sort of rag or cloth, I always use 1" sponge brush with my wipe on poly, it only takes a drop of poly on the tip of the brush and it's goes a long ways. I sometimes keep a paper towel sitting aside to dab the brush on to take off the access, if you need more then one coat, put your brush in a plastic bag sealed until time for the second / third coat…

My method, I mix my on with 50/50 mineral spirits and minwax poly (preferred sheen ) I pop the lid off of the 1 qt can of poly and mix it with a stirring stick, then using a 1 qt empty can with lid, I use a 1 oz epoxy measuring cup with needle nose pliers making it a ladle dipping it into the poly to pour just enough of both mixtures to do that single project two the three applications into that empty can resealing between each coat, I just pour from the mineral spirits can straight into the measuring cup, I then re-stir both mixtures together in that 1 qt can then dip my foam brush into it, once I'm done, the can should be empty if I mixed it right, I then clean it out with just mineral spirits and a paper towel so it's ready for the next project add the lid back to the can with just a tad bit of Mineral spirits left in the can and put it away, no fuss and none wasted.
 

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Scott's blue shop towels and about any old cloth that's been washed many times, but may favorite is golden taklon brushes. The super fine bristles leave tiny brush marks that level out to be invisible. I use a "dry brush" technique: get the poly on fairly thin, tamp the brush "dry" on a blue shop towel, and keep brushing the poly, tamping the brush as needed. With a little practice you learn how much brushing is needed to get a super smooth finish.

BTW, instead of paying more fore the wipe on poly, just buy the regular poly and thin 50%, it's the same as wipe on.
 

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You might want try the everyday Kitchen Sponges that you can buy in Quantity (Cheap). NOT the very Porous ones, the smoother ones.

A little Poly goes a long way. I use a saucer or even a piece of tin foil to DIP it in.

Sponge Brushes and Me don't get along very well ….LOL.

You probably already know this, but Wipe on Poly is just Regular Poly thinned 50/50 with water or mineral spirits. It's also a lot cheaper buying the Regular Poly and thinning it yourself.
 

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I read in another thread that staining pads from Harbor Freight work well for this.
I might try it myself.
If I was going to mix my own wipe on poly any recommendations on which brand poly to start from?
Preferrably something I can buy at HD, Lowes or Rockler.
 

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What Case said! I'll also take a piece of polyester cloth fold it over a couple of times, then put it inside the nylon and use it like a squeege. Works great. Be sure to thin the poly down by 50% or more for a glass smooth finish
and 600 wet/dri between coats.
 

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I read in another thread that staining pads from Harbor Freight work well for this.
I might try it myself.
If I was going to mix my own wipe on poly any recommendations on which brand poly to start from?
Preferrably something I can buy at HD, Lowes or Rockler.

- Joel_B
Well, I would suggest you avoid anything that's Min-Wax, and go from there.
 

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If you really want to avoid headaches with finishing, try to avoid poly and wipe-on finishes all together. Try spraying lacquer once, and I doubt you will ever use a wipe-on product again. It dries quicker, so dust nibs are less of an issue. It also builds quickly so two coats is all it takes.
Sprayers were once costly tools, but you can now buy a gravity feed gun for a weeks worth of lattes.
If you already own a compressor the investment is minimal.
That said, many rave about General Finishes Arm R Seal. Others like Waterlox. Wiping on a finish will take many coats to build up decent protection, but if you want to stay with a wipe on product, you might give those a try.

You will soon find a system that works for you.
Best of luck!
 

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I read in another thread that staining pads from Harbor Freight work well for this.
I might try it myself.
If I was going to mix my own wipe on poly any recommendations on which brand poly to start from?
Preferrably something I can buy at HD, Lowes or Rockler.

- Joel_B

Well, I would suggest you avoid anything that s Min-Wax, and go from there.

- Fred Hargis
I am not sure why people are so down on Minwax, it seems to get good reviews in general.
Maybe those reviews are coming from your typical person and not serious wood workers.
 
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