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I just purchased Jet Proshop table saw with cast iron wings recently. After putting it together and setting up the table to be completely square i noticed a possible issue with the proshop fence. It seems that both sides of the fence that are perpendicular to the table are not completely flat. I used an incra square and determined that the sides of the fence seem to be concave in the middle. The top and bottom of the sides of the fence are completely square to the table. The middle of the fence is not. It is off enough that you can see light through it (possibly a 1/64 of an inch) when you put the square up against it.

I think this may be a problem. I will post pictures soon because this might help see the problem better.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Personally, I wouldn't lose any sleep over that 1/64", but if it bothers you, look at the underside of your fence. My Jet Xacta fence has openings that provide access to the bolts that hold the HDPE fence sides to the metal. If you have that, you might ever so slightly loosen the nuts and see if your gap goes away.
 

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You can always shim the faces. Without seeing the pics, my 1st response is not to worry too much about it. Wood moves alot, so I doubt 1/64" deviation in the fence will affect the cuts…it's not metal work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I loosened the bolts on the underside of the fence. From what i can see it didnt make a difference but i appreciate the suggestion. After looking at the space again it is safe to say it is no more than 1/32". I doubt this will make a difference. I guess i am just being too picky. You get a new saw and you want it to be perfect. This saw is a huge upgrade for me so i doubt this 1/32" gap in the middle of the fence will outweigh the positives this saw will provide.
 

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Kinbaum - I am totally with Knotscott.

My Jet Exacta fence with phenolic face has worn over the past 10 years and is off more than yours. My cuts and work are still impeccable.

When I started out, I tried to operate with machinist tolerances and wood does not play by those rules. With wood you will need to learn to relax a little.
 

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I have the same saw and fence that you have. I read your post and then walked to my shop to see if I have the same problem. Like you, I find the top and the bottom of the fence to be perfectly flat. In the middle I see it is very very slightly concave. The gap is less than the thickness of one playing card. I'm not loosing any sleep over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
richgreer,

If you have the same issue then it must be the way the fences are made. I thought i may have had a defective fence. It appears that maybe i do not. As far as the gap, you are correct, it is about the size of one playing card.

How do you like the saw? I have not had a chance to really run it through its paces.

Thanks for the reply
 

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The issue that I have with the same fence is that it's hard for me to square the fence to the miter slots. As I move the miter gauge and dial indicator down the line of the fence, the needle on the dial moves in both directions. My HDPE fence is not flat from front to back which is more of an issue I think.

The other thing that I don't like about it is that because the material is not totally opaque, when you put a board up to the edge it creates sort of a shadow effect in the plastic and I don't know if the board is against the fence or not. This is more of a problem when I'm cutting a full sheet and I'm 4' away from the fence. When I had my old Saw with the Biesemeyer fence with the plastic laminate faces I didn't get this shadow effect.

Does anyone have experience putting laminate onto HDPE? I'm considering laminating the fence after I flatten it.
 
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