LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Jet JWP DX 15 planer.

667 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Barkley
I just purchased a 2011 Jet JWP DX 15' planer yesterday and am having trouble finding info on the cutter head. It has the quick change knives. It looks to be in great condition. I'm just looking for info of what to expect from the knives, is this a good type of head, things like that. I needed something a little bigger than my 1955 12" Powermatic, which will be for sale shortly. I tried searching LJ for info but must be wording it wrong. While I'm on here flapping my lips/fingers. I'm in Nashville, What do ya think I should ask for a 1955 P100 in good condition?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Google the manual.

I had it in less than 10 seconds.
No joke, I did. What I'm looking for is someone that has one or has experience with that type of blade system.
OK sorry I didn't read post carefully enough.
Don't worry, I do that often…I am not hearing much on these planer heads. Thank goodness it came with 4 new sets of blades. When they are gone I'll probably switch to a spiral head. I do have to admit they were really easy to take off and clean. When reinstalled I checked dial indicator and they were dead on. I'm not sure if they could be resharpened or not.
Those quick change knives look like the same type that come on a Dewalt 735 planer. You just remove the gib screws and the gib. Remove and rotate the blade to the unused side. Quick to change but you cannot resharpen them.
4 extra sets of knives? At current pricing that is over $1000 value.

Don't own the Jet quick change planer. Almost bought one, till I compared quick change knife prices to regular version. The difference is 2x or more despite the double edge design. Knife cost was one reason the unit was for sale. Like most the bench top planers using quick set knives, you also can't slide the knives side to side to remove surface defects left behind by nicks in blade.

Be curious to know more about the quick change knives: thickness, and width?
Any steel grade markings? Also what kind of life you get from the blades?
Might as well begin to establish some documentation in WWW. :)

Finally got back from Myrtle Beach and started cleaning and adjusting this machine. I have also found out that sometime in the past a blade either came loose or hit something metal, breaking the blade and putting some minor dings in the cutterhead. Evidently when this happened it cracked the casting in front of the outfeed roller. It's about 1.5" long and at the corner where the thin part of the front of the casting meets the thick side of the casting. Anyhoo, I'm going to take to a professional welder to drill the end of the crack (to stop it) and then to TIG weld it closed, you know good and well if I try it I'll screw it up. I'm going to try to find some old turd that has been welding cast for years and knows what he's doing.
My second thought is to change this thing from the straight blades to a Shelix helical head while I've got it apart.
Question is do you guys think this type of head will decrease the future stresses on the casting repairs, ya know many of small cuts instead 3 big impacts from the straight knives.
See less See more
...Evidently when this happened it cracked the casting in front of the outfeed roller. It s about 1.5" long and at the corner where the thin part of the front of the casting meets the thick side of the casting.
Sorry to read this.
At least now I understand why someone who spent over $1000 on 4 sets of new blades, decided to sell the relatively new planer. :(

Which side of head is cracked; belt drive side, or gear box side?
Would love to see a picture of casting and cutter head damage.
Have rebuilt many 15" four post planers and never witnessed that problem. Be handy to know where to look.

FWIW - When knives hit something hard enough to shock the planer drive line; there is small helical cut gear at end of cutter head (inside the gear box); that can be damaged. Often planer still operates, but tends to growl. After an accident like that, would crack open the gear box and inspect for damage. At a minimum, change oil and check for metal.

Question is do you guys think this type of head will decrease the future stresses on the casting repairs, ya know many of small cuts instead 3 big impacts from the straight knives. - Barkley
IDK. How often are you going to run metal through your planer? lol

Carbide is more brittle than tool steel, and carbide will shatter if it sees shock load. But the chip clearance on segmented carbide head is smaller than straight knife, so it's might be easier to jam up the head?
Supposedly the straight head requires less HP, as it stores kinetic energy between cuts; while the segmented head are constantly milling wood. Both heads have same available HP, but in a crash situation; a straight knife head would have more energy.

Looking at the the quick change head gib configuration .vs. a regular straight blade head; am curious if the same damage would have happened with regular straight knife head? Have had knots unexpectedly pop out that jam and stop a cutter head, start burning the belt, even damage the helical drive gear once; and never had cracked head casting. What ever happened to that machine to crack cast iron head, must have been very loud, and would have been an 'fresh underwear required' event.

Best Luck.
See less See more
The crack was on the oppisite side from the gear box. It's on the inside corner where the thinner front casting meets the thick side castings. I have pictures, trying to upload. I'll check the gear you were talking about.
I'll bet the damage was caused by a knot.
Wood Bumper Tool Automotive exterior Motor vehicle

Wood Automotive tire Tints and shades Bumper Auto part


See less See more
LOL Was expecting much worse damage?

IMHO - that crack is not worth fixing. It's not in an important area. That cast iron web's purpose is to support the chip deflector (you have a chip deflector, right?), and is thinnest portion of back cross bar. The reason the cracked stopped is web gets much thicker towards the back side of casting.

I'd drill a small hole at very end of crack to prevent it reaching the tapped hole for chip deflector, and ignore it.

If a chunk of metal is missing on underside, fill area smooth with JB Weld to improve flow of chips around cutter head. Be sure to abrade with a carbide burr, de-grease to remove excess carbon from cast iron surface before applying JB Weld.

The labor required to strip the head and remove it from machine for welding is couple hours. Takes 2x as long to reassemble. Reassembly can take 5X longer your first time doing it, as have learn how to reset the parallelism of head to table, and adjust the raising chain under the base.

Since the drilled hole will be directly over the out feed roller, would be safest to remove the entire roller before drilling or working in area?
Lower the table. Stack 3-4" of wood under roller, and raise table. Pull drive chain cover. Rotate the chain tensioner out of way. Remove the gears/chain as one assembly. Remove the feed roller tension springs from top. Remove the bolts holding the feed roller underneath casting, and the out feed roller and bushings land on support blocks. Lower table another 1", and can slide feed roller out the way. Easy Peasy 5-10 minute removal.

Check the feed roller bushings for wear, while it is disassembled. The bushings are supposed to be manually oiled every XX hours of use. Based on machines I have seen; it's mostly ignored maintenance.

PS - That crack location is not going to see any different stress between a straight knife cutter head, or segmented cutter head. Only stress in that area is; when you crash the head on a knot. :)

Best Luck.
See less See more
Great. Sounds like I was worried for nothing. That's what I'll do. I was afraid the crack would keep extending and the casting would completely break. Thanks capt'n for your help. LJ folks have a ton of info and is a great resource.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.