[Sodabowski]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Here a video from Sumokun of the process:

 

[lew]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Super photo journey, Mads!

Looks like that glove is starting to show a little wear.

 

[lanwater]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

I was wondering what have happened to your hand to have so many bandages until I realize you tore the glove

Those small screens are good for nothing.

Great blog Mafe!

 

[swirt]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Nice metalwork Mafe. As always, it was fun following along on your adventure.

 

[CFrye]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Thanks for the pics and explanation of your journey Mads. Wonderful shavings from a beautiful tool! At first I thought the sound was off on the video, then reminded myself a Japanese plane cuts on the pull. LOL!

 

[mafe]

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore - MaFe style Kanna jointer

Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) restore
MaFe style Kanna jointer

I finally got back to the Naga-Dai-Kanna this week, some may remember I made the Japan meets Krenov jointer plane when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer. A beautiful plane, but then my shop had to be restored and were closed down for months.
So it never got going, this week I finally did, I will post two new parts, first here the kanna-mi and then the final setup and shavings.

Time to bring life to this beautiful old hand forged Japanese kanna-mi (plane iron) and osae-ba (chip breaker) I got of E-bay Japan some time back.
Japanese plane irons are laminated; it means that you have two layers of iron forged together, a crisp and hard thin layer on the cutting part, at the cutting side (up) and then a softer back and top of the blade.
First step was to remove the mushroomed iron away from the top of the iron, this is what happens when you beat with a steel hammer on soft steel (Japanese in general use metal hammer when adjusting).
Then tune the chip breaker. You can read about tuning chip breaker in my Japanese hand plane setup blog, here you will find all you need for general setup of a Japanese kanna.

Here the basic names from TAKENAKA CARPENTRY TOOLS MUSEUM interesting site btw.

In this blog we will focus on the kanna-mi (blade).
[Love that name kanna-mi, sounds like a name for a loved one].
First the ko (reverse side) of the blade gets a little flattening, this is to secure a firm grip and fit to the omote-najimi (bed of the plane).
The ko don't need to be all flat here, the iron is so thick that there will be no shatter.
I use a 120 water stone, this is a rough bastard and will work fast in the soft metal, I leave the surface quite rough to make a good grip.

Then flip it and give it a workout on the stone.
(Now you can see the ko side got some shoulders to rest on).

A touch up on the edge.

Now we can see how the blade is.
The Japanese blades have a hollow center, this needs to be maintained otherwise it will like here, just have cutting edge on the sides.
(This blade is probably not a high quality blade, then the hollow would usually be deeper and the edges more crisp, but it can also be due to wrong sharpening - we will see how it performs later).

So I need to make a tool for restoring the cutting edge.
There are many versions, mine is an old shoemakers anvil, it will be easy to move around and I have it in the shop.

First I grind the edges of to make a better shape.

Like so.
I admit, I'm not a black smith - lol….

Then polish it a wee bit with a steel brush.

Better yes!

This was what we came from.
A blade with no cutting edge.

Before we get started, I will write NEVER HIT ON THE CUTTING PART OF THE IRON' only the soft laminated steel. ;-) Did you get it?
Of course I sit on the floor, when I work with Japanese tools - smiles.

Then what you do is to tap the iron with a hammer to bend the metal down towards the front.

Here I use a pointed hammer, like I have seen many Japanese doing.

But some use a bigger version like this one…

Then back to the stone, grinding off a little metal, to see where we are.

Now we are getting a cutting edge.

So now we have an edge and flat sides so we can fit it in the dai (body).

Then I cut of the ears.
This will prevent the shaves from getting stocked in the oshi-mizo (ditch).

Like this. ;-)

Not sure if I hit the right angle or if there are one…
But I'm sure it will work fine.

So back to the sharpening station.
First I put marker on the bade to see where I am going.

A few hits on the diamond and I am here…
It's clear to see I should have flattened my 120 stone, we are a little off here.
This will mean i will go deeper into the hollow and this will mean more work when sharpening in the future.

Getting there.

Marking.

And a happy MaFe-San.

All we need now is to do the sharpening, that you can read more about in the first kanna blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608

Hope this can inspire to buy and recycle, it was my first try and I have a blade with a wonderful edge now, have learned a little from mistakes and will be happy to try again.

Best thoughts,
Mads

Hi there,
Lol Candy, yes I can imagine your confusion, Mads reversed… The pull is really good for my neck and shoulders.
Swirt, you know I love to learn new - and this was a new path to walk, so I was like a fish in water. ;-)
Ianwater, lol, yes I can see it looks like I'm wounded. Thanks.
Lew, I will buy a new… (It's always happening to me when I sharpen).
Soda, ;-)
siavosh, sounds wonderful, then the blogs will have a purpose.
Thank you for taking time to comment, best of my thoughts,
Mads

 

[mafe]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

 

[racerglen]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

That's amazing ! Mafe you did it ! (BUT…there was a whole lot of foreplay my friend ! ;-)
Beautiful work as usual.

 

[lew]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Those shavings are proof of your masterful skills, Mads!

Thanks for the video, too, it was "crisp $h*t"

 

[donwilwol]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

nothing wrong with that outcome.

 

[Timbo]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Wonderful plane Mads, just perfect. Good to see you getting to finish this long distance project!

 

[Sodabowski]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Mmmmmmm, paperthin shevingzzzz… luvem.

 

[lanwater]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Those are nice shavings Mafe.

Very well doe.

 

[lanwater]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

what's the clamp on your drill press for?

It seems way high to be holding and stock.

 

[alba]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

The sounds of the shaves
Smiles remain silent
Wonderful Mads

Jamie

 

[llwynog]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Great looking and wonderful sounding plane!

 

[7Footer]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Very cool Mads. Thanks for sharing!

 

[jjw5858]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Nice plane and wonderful shaves! Great job Mads.

 

[mafe]

Japan meets Krenov II - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer II
Japan meets Krenov

In this part I will fit the kanna-mi (plane iron) into the dai (body), to the Japan meets Krenov Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane) I build when I visited my friend Jamie in Scotland last summer.

Part one I build the kanna (hand plane): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/37783
Restoring the kanna-mi (plane iron): http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/40427
Setting up a kanna (Japanese hand plane)

This is the kanna I build in Scotland, but never had the time to finish.

So back in the work shop.
The dai (body) held firmly in place on the bench.

Tools for fitting the kanna-mi (plane iron) in the dai (body).
File with side teeth's.
A homemade mini saw from jigsaw blade (I use them for knife making).
A fine rasp.

As you see I fitted the iron quite close when building the dai, but I backed it up a little, so there would be possibility for tuning and adjusting once the iron was ready.
Also I have marked up for the uragane-dome (pin for the cap iron).
This by tapping the iron down, then pacing the cap iron on top and drawing a line on top - then I decide where the pin goes (app center of cap iron) and mark that up, in this way I can transfer the lines and distance to the outside of the dai (body) for later drilling.

What's needed is to first fit the blade to the omote-najimi (bed) and then to the oshi-mizo (ditches).
You can also read quite a lot more about fitting the blade in my first Japanese tools blog: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608 , here you can also see what to do if it becomes to loose.

Now it's all up to precision and patience.
No need to take pictures of this, I spend half a hour.

Once the iron fits I double check for the placement of the pin and offset it a wee bit closer to the blade, to make sure I have a tight fit.
Then drill and remember to put a backing wood, to avoid tear out.

Both sides. ;-)
"Do or do not. There is no try." - Yoda…

For pin I had a old tabletop birthday flag pole… Cut!

Here a close up of the drilling, you can see I put the hole a wee bit under the marking for at tight fit.

Like so!
"Not if anything to say about it I have" - Yoda

The pin are hammered in and I make it just shy of the surface.

Tataaaaa!

Kanna-mi in place!

Uragane in place and it fits just perfect.

Adjusting the blade and shaves starts to fly out the mouth.
It works perfectly, looks like a gem and, cuts like a Japanese sword and make the most beautiful sound.
My ohhhh I did it!
A Japan meets Krenov jointer kanna.

"Foreplay, cuddling - a Jedi craves not these things" - Yoda
So I better just get into business.

And here the evidence, I made you a short video:

Best thoughts,
Mads

Thank you all for the comments.
Today I spend in bed with a virus… (There are more fun things to spend a day in bed with)...
jjw, sweet shaves oh yes and yesterday I did a little tuning, so it is now running smoooottthhhh.
7Footer, smiles.
llwynog, the sound of music.
Jamie, my sweet friend, yes finally it makes the sweet sound, smell and shaves - smile broad and silent.
Ian, lol, the switch is broken, so it's a power switch… Don't do this at home!
Soda, yes like silk and shiny too.
Tim, the world is my oyster…
Don, nothing wrong with grown up men playing with toys. ;-)
Lew, Fc I love your comment.
racerglen, yes I guess we need that foreplay to keep it smooth.
Best thoughts,
Mads