Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...

gfixler said:

Jacaranda natural edge end grain goblet

Two weeks ago, on a whim, I got home after work, sliced off a piece of smaller branch from my large pile of smaller Jacaranda branches (~2.5"-3" dia.), and turned a bark-rimmed goblet.



Sorry for the gratuitous lighting

Let's fly into it…









The inside is smooth, and today, 15 days of air-drying on my dining room table later, it still has no checks, even around the pith inside, or on the bottom of the base!

Here's my hand for some better scale, with the rest of the branch whence came this goblet's blank:



And now, some closeups of the feathery texture I got from the 1/2" Sorby Spindlemaster, which I used mostly laying flat, instead of on edge, making knife-like slices while riding, bevel-on-part as it is meant to be used (though I did this, too, as seen wherever you see a very thin slice at the junction of 2 separate sections:





Note the chipout around the pedestal under the cup - very hard to avoid in this very soft wood:





I got a little chipout on the rim, too - again, very hard to completely avoid without preparing the blank first somehow. The dark, cambial layer makes the rim stand out rather boldly:



Extreme closeups…



I like the moss on the bark here:



Some raked lighting across the inside curvature:



Two different lightings of the same shot here (turned overheads off for second one):





Something of note to me in the previous shots, and in the cup design in general is that the cup feels a little too large for the stem, but moreover, viewed from higher angles, the ornamentation at the base of the cup - just above the stem - begins to disappear. The stem starts to appear to simply jut out from the cup's bottom, with no connecting decoration. I'd like to try this idea again, but I'd like to leave the cup proper a bit shorter, elongate the pedestal under the cup, and lessen the angle at which it recedes toward its bottom, make the stem longer, and reduce the size of the decoration above the foot. I had intended the top of that bit to be convex, like the inverted version of it under the cup, but I got to playing with the Spindlemaster, making that convex curve the 'right' way, and forgot later to bring it back to convex, as I'd had it previously (though far too big at that point).

Anyway, two last shots in mood lighting of the cup seen at a better angle for the stem/cup pedestal, with and without hand for scale reference.





I plan to put a slightly thick layer of shellac on it, then apply enough coats of wipe-on-poly to bring the surface up to completely smooth, polished to a shine. This will contain and hopefully flaunt the deep, feathery texture under a kind of bar-top finish, hopefully allowing light and shadow to play interestingly across it. The shellac should deepen the shimmer that Jacaranda secretly holds.

Click to expand...