Joined
·
5,232 Posts
Its easier to align the fronts. Adjustable undermounts are an advantage.
No confusion on my part.
Still learning things, how about you?
Is this Drawer Box Design Flawed?
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Still learning things, how about you?
Joined
·
5,232 Posts
Its easier to align the fronts. Adjustable undermounts are an advantage.
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
We have never called it a”Utility drawer”Its easier to align the fronts. Adjustable undermounts are an advantage.
No confusion on my part.
Still learning things, how about you?
Learning? I don’t learn so much anymore.
Would I use the drawer joint mentioned, nope…
That said, because I don’t agree or disagree doesn’t mean I’m flawed, I just won’t sell a piece that is could be “flawed” in its design..
If it’s in question, take the extra step..
Its all good..
Joined
·
9 Posts
I agree with LesB. Cut your mortise 3/8" deep and use pva glue. Although this connection is inherently weaker than a dovetail I believe it will be serviceable. For additional reinforcement you can glue wedges on the front inside corners attaching the front to the sides.
I would strongly suggest you buy your blum undermount drawer guides before you start to make your drawers. They do have a lot of adjustments but the width of the drawer side and the depth of the drawer are critical to the guide working correctly.
I would strongly suggest you buy your blum undermount drawer guides before you start to make your drawers. They do have a lot of adjustments but the width of the drawer side and the depth of the drawer are critical to the guide working correctly.
I've been building drawers this way for years. They work great and can permit slightly increased maximum usable drawer space for a given cabinet depth. A key point is to precisely fit the drawer side into the drawer front dado. I like a very slight friction fit--I think of it as snug. Then put glue in the groove and on the part being inserted, and clamp. Not one such joint has ever failed in rough and tumble shop use. Remember: properly glued joints are said to be as strong, or stronger than the wood being jointed.
Joined
·
84 Posts
It's one thing to "design" on CNC but another to understand what works in real life. End grain on wood isn't very strong, maybe use plastic instead of wood and fuse the sides into the front or just drive a screw through the front into the end grain of the side which isn't that strong either but would "make a statement"!
Joined
·
14 Posts
I've been building furniture for 40 plus years - I attach the drawer fronts (made from 3/4" stock) to the drawer sides with (blind) 3/8" grooved dowels using Elmer's yellow glue. Haven't had any fail yet.
Joined
·
4,813 Posts
One thing not mentioned yet in this discussion is to drive 23 gauge pins from outside the sides into the drawer front at an angle. Six or more of these pins will mechanically hold the joint to reinforce the glue. It's still not the strongest or most durable, but it is quick and easy.
DanK
DanK
Joined
·
2,506 Posts
Yes,
Mentioned in post #14
You don't know how strong this is unless you have ever tried to tear one apart. I have, and it will never break unless you are overly abusive.
Blum undermount will allow adjustments exactly as needed…not to say it isn’t tedious at times, but I do think cabs with inset/integrated drawers are more elegant than standard euro overlay. Also Blum specs are good to design by.
Suggest if you’re going the Blum route that you do the design in metric. It will make the whole process consistent from start to finish. Buy a couple of metric tape measures and rules, squares and have fun learning!
Suggest if you’re going the Blum route that you do the design in metric. It will make the whole process consistent from start to finish. Buy a couple of metric tape measures and rules, squares and have fun learning!
Joined
·
4 Posts
“strong as Wood” pertains to a tight joint between two long grain oriented pieces . This design is 100 end grain glue joints : the drawer face will pull off in no time .
Joined
·
9 Posts
This is one of those myths that folks just won't let go of. I believed this for many years but I never tested it, I was just always told this is the way it was. But in doing my own testing and seeing these more stringent and controlled tests it's obvious there is plenty of strength in end grain gluing.
Joined
·
6 Posts
I agree with those who say your joinery on the drawer fronts will set up failure of that stop dado's holding power. The bigger the drawer, the heavier the load and the more likely it is to fail. There is a YouTube video on making drawers with just one table saw setting. I would use that.You avoid having to set up the stop dado, too.
Joined
·
52 Posts
Thanks for mentioning this video. Making my own drawers is next on my list to learn.
Joined
·
1 Posts
Use a lock joint (dado and rabbet) style design or a box joint style. They are easy to make and will withstand any stress the wood can take. I have used this on at least 30 drawers that are everywhere in my house and my shop where they are used everyday. In the shop I use box joint drawers that hold very heavy tools. You can use a nice piece of hardwood for the front or use a separate drawer face. I built two of the drawers pictured. They are full of routers and drills and have been in service for years with no problem.
By the way, use Blum undermount if you can afford them. They are the best and work like a dream.
![Rectangle Font Parallel Gas Drawing]()
By the way, use Blum undermount if you can afford them. They are the best and work like a dream.
Joined
·
11 Posts
Was that the 1/4,"1/4",1/4"Drawer?
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
