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Hello,

About 3 years ago I went to an estate sale and purchased a lathe. I'm just now getting around to using it. It's a Grizzly 1495. I figure it's about 30+ years old. I've heard some say it's under powered but I figure if I enjoy this, I will just buy another one later. I have my own woodshop and build a lot of furniture and just misc things. But the turning is new. About the lathe, I think I paid too much. As I remember I paid around $435 for the lathe and a bunch of misc things. I got 3 huge Robert Sorbey tools, and about 8 or so Woodcraft tools. Also as set of 3 of the Easy Tools Carbide tipped ones. They are not the mini's, its a good size and they were never used. It also came with that pen smashing thing, River something. 2 mandrels, lots of bushing, (the guy obviously turned pens), an unopened container of Mylands Friction polish. A lot of pen kits, like 15 or so unopened, 100+ pen blanks, 3 wax things that I have yet to figure out. Sandpaper of various grits. Just a lot of things. I mean I know I couldn't buy all that for $435 but still….... But what I didn't get was a chuck and a method to sharpen the tools. You know the guy had these things but I didn't know what I was doing and these things were probably put in another box of things by the auction people. So I bought a chuck and am now trying to figure out how to sharpen the tools. There are so many different ways. I'm not going to try and do it freehand. Wolverine has a lot of pieces, not sure if it's better to adjust the angle of the platform and sharpen that way or use the long arm and put the tool in that to sharpen? I like that Robert Sorby sharpening setup but don't want to pay $550. Or that Tormek one, would love that. But with all the jigs you have to buy. Ugh, too much. Would be nice to sharpen the kitchen knives too. So, what do you all use to sharpen your tools? Wish I could find something in the classified section.
 

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there is so much information on you tube and even started turning videos to get you started down a path, lots can be done with out the expensive tools , vids on sharpening also, to get you thru the process, to decide whether or not you want to continue, also if you have a wood workers guild or clubs , and even a rockler store close enough to get a class or two. BUT be careful, once bitten one may not return to the lighted side of wood working.
good luck
rj in az
 

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I would say you got a good deal with all those extras. Those cutting tools sell for around $100+ each so you got your moneys worth right there.
I looked up the lathe and 3/4 hp is OK but it might struggle with large blanks. The variable speed is also very handy, most wood cuts better at higher speeds (if you are comfortable with that) The Mylands is old, throw it out.
General sharpening can be done on a slower speed grinder (1750rpm) or a belt sander. One of the 2" wide type with a metal sanding belt. Certainly the guides like Sorby or Tormek are great but I have gotten by for 30+ years without them. Grizzly makes a "knock off" that is a lot less expensive. Free hand with a support set at the correct angle works but takes a little practice. Use a white grind stone about 100-150 grit.

Now, get an experienced person to help get you started or take a class if you can find one near you. Turning is a fun experience and you can make a lot of useful and decorative things out of "fire wood".....which is where a lot my turnings come from.
 

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"I'm new and I need some advice" - I just can't imagine a more delicious baited hook on Lumberjocks! :)

That G1495 is a mighty fine lathe. If you do find that it is underpowered I wouldn't hesitate to strap a bigger motor to it - it will take it. And to get the equivalent on Grizzly today will cost a lot more than $400.

Sharpening? I only do occasional turning on a cheap Chinese lathe and I just use the shop grinder to sharpen chisels. I have been toying with the idea of using surplus brushless DC motors (from scooters) with integrated speed control for a variable speed grinder.

Jigs? I made my own jigs for sharpening. Lotsa info out on the Web and I would be surprised if I had $50 in mine. I keep a jar of water next to the grinder to keep the chisels cool.

I am a big fan of learning by doing. I would only suggest reviewing safety issues before starting. Get a face shield! (damhikt)
 

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You may have gotten an excellent bargain, sounds like it from the description!

Carbide tools don't need a sharpening method, but those little cutters get expensive over time. And, though they hold their edge well, they will never be as sharp as high speed steel can be made.

PPE (personal protective equipment) was mentioned. Take that seriously.

Instruction-plenty of good video online, but also plenty of bad. I love self teaching, but at least in turning it is not efficient. There is probably a turning club near you, check the American Association of Woodturners site. Most clubs have experienced mentors, know where to find wood, and are generally a sharing group of folks. I've learned much from watching videos, but no video can watch ME and provide that little tidbit that improves my turning-that's the value of a mentor or club.

Great hobby…enjoy!!
Earl
 

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There is a Woodcraft in Tampa (Clearwater). They will likely have an introduction to turning class that may even include a section on sharpening. If nothing else, they will have a sharpening setup in the class room and you can ask the instructor for a demo. Finding a local turning club is another great idea-one might even meet at the Woodcraft. I have found lots of good information online.

Personally, I like sharpening on a belt system like the Sorby Proedge but the price is hard to swallow unless you are turning all the time. A slow or variable speed grinder is probably the best way to get started. A standard bench grinder will work but the higher speed makes it a little more difficult, especially at first. The Wolverine system is a good add on to make it easier. Some people simply use diamond plates to keep their tools sharp.
 

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I took a motor out of my old dryer and set it up as a grinder (1750 rpm) with a Norton grinding wheel. Made a "wolverine style" rig myself using Cap'n Eddie's and others' suggestions (utoob guy). He's also got instructions for cheeep "vari-grind" attachment that you can make yourself. (I haven't made that attachment yet-it's for the "ellsworth" and other swept-back grinds.)

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Automotive design
 

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Carbide chisels are fine for "rough" turning, but a sharp HSS chisel is needed for that final cut. Carbide chisels work fine as "scraping" tools, but not as good as "shearing" tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the responses. First thing, I bought a face shield right off the bat and I do wear it. And my husband has a larger motor he can put on the lathe if I feel I will need it. Amazon just delivered my adapter so I can now use my new chuck. I just don't have any dried wood. I cut up a small maple this past weekend and have been practicing on that. It's so wet though\. Still haven't decided on my my preferred method of sharpening. There is a local wood working club nearby and I plan to go to their next meeting. And yes there is a Woodcraft not too far away and we just got a Rockler 10 miles from my home. That was an unexpected surprise. I don't know if I really want to pay $75 to take a class. I'm not totally ignorant, I've turned a few pens, those carbide tipped tools are good for those. I just need a lesson from a seasoned turner. Maybe I will find one at the next meeting.
 

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sounds like you got a great deal on that lathe with all the extras.as for sharpening i dont,i have hss tools but i love using the carbide,so much easier to learm with,and safer.i hate sharpening and even though most will tell you hss is the way to go,thats their opinion. do what you fell most comfortable with. ive turned a quite a bit with the carbide with no problems.all i can say is your gonna get addicted,so get your credit card ready.enjoy.
 

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It's a great price, even without the extras. 3/4hp will do fine for almost anything you may want to turn. You may find that it all the lathe you need. I went with a 1hp midi and the Wolverine Sharpening System. A good video on it https://thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening/. There's a bunch of inexpensive DIY methods out there. Some like using a belt sander to sharpen the turning chisels.

As you mentioned, Costs can go into a rabbit hole quick. With the accessories, I went with the Nova Brand for chucks and jaws. For carbide cutters I went with Rikon 70-800 (on sale, set for $149) and Grizzly H28505 (on sale, set for $81). Chisels I went with a starter set to learn sharping on https://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-wood-turning-set-8-pc-61794.html

Many good sites out there for Turning tools and turning kits. I'm sure you checked out several sites.
...https://www.pennstateind.com/
...https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturning.aspx
...https://www.ptreeusa.com/
...https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/
...even Home Depot can save you money and offers free shipping https://www.homedepot.com/s/wood%2520turning%2520accessories?NCNI-5

Enjoy the addicting habit of wood turning. And also wear a dust mask with the sheild.

Check if there's woodworking club or wood turning club in your area.
 

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before you invest a bunch of money in a sharpening system,and there are many to choose from.from very simple and inexpensive to very expensive. id start out using the carbide tools to get a feel for it.much easier to use than hss. maybe you wont like turning (im lying it's addictive) and will sell the lathe ? im just saying start out slowliy and get a feel for it and what kind of turning you will want to do.i hope you enjoy it as much as i have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I turned a few pens and I've enjoyed that. I used the carbide tools for the pens. I was under the assumption that you don't use carbide for larger projects. Seems rather delicate to be using on a large bowl. Not true?
 

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check out the site turn a gives you link to wood bowl on UTube, he is a great teacher and tells you what he is doing as he is doing it, he also gives you links to subjects he talks about
 

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I turned a few pens and I ve enjoyed that. I used the carbide tools for the pens. I was under the assumption that you don t use carbide for larger projects. Seems rather delicate to be using on a large bowl. Not true?

- www2b
i use carbide almost exclusively. the biggest bowl my lathe will do is 10". i have no problem using carbide for bowls.i hate sharpening.
 

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You might be able to find a local chapter of the American Association of Woodturners here:
https://www.woodturner.org/Woodturner/AAWConnects/AAW-Connects.aspx

- Underdog
I think getting in touch with a local club is the best place to start.
This one seems closest to you, but check the woodturner.org site. You may find one closer.
https://www.woodturnersofpolkcounty.com/

As for sharpening turning tools. You wont go wrong with the Wolverine system, and a 8" grinder.
You had mentioned the platform vs the long arm. So both Are needed, however you also need the vari grind attachment with the long arm.
Here is the link to that one Piece.
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/93/3891/oneway-Vari-Grind-Jig?term=wolverine&term=wolverine
So the platform is good for sharpening scrapers, the long arm by itself handles a roughing gouge, while the vari grind jig with the long arm handles all the gouges.

I too have a full shop and home, and started like you. So I was sharpening woodworking tools with water stones. Chisels and hand planes for the most part. Then I got into turning, Lucky me living her in Las Vegas. I was able to take classes with Jimmy Clewes and I too have a local AAW club, and Wolverine is what Jimmy's shop, and the club were both set up with. So that is what I learned to use, and it was a simple add on.
Now today if I was starting over. I wish I had discovered Tormek 1st. Doubt I ever pull the trigger on that pricey piece of equipment. But it does seem to do it all with the added jigs.
Oh, I also have a Ken Onion work sharp for the knives. lol. So three separate sharpening setups to cover it all at my place. If I knew about Tormek way back when, I would have one setup.

I think this link is posted above, but most of the tools I buy today are Doug Thompson branded. He has a sharpening link here.
https://thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening/

Good luck and safe turning.
 

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Carbide isn't delicate, it is incredibly strong and hard. but it doesn't have a sharp edge like other steels do. Like MrRon said, carbides will do a good jog of scraping forever, but never give you a sleek finish.

I sharpen my lathe tools all freehand on a grinder, then touch up with stones on my skew chisels and bowl gouges.

Once you are comfortable, lear to use a skew chisel. If you get it right, you don't even need to sand - you can get a mirror like finish on some dense woods like fruitwoods.
 

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I really hate using carbide on spindle turning. I only use carbide when necessary, mostly for hollowing or hard to reach areas while turning bowls but a couple of other uses as well. I have not turned pens, but on other spindle work, tool handles for example, using spindle gouges and a skew, I can often skip sandpaper and the item comes comes out with a sheen even without a finish. While carbide it a quick way to jump in and make stuff, learning how to use HSS tools first will give you much better results over the long run because you will be less likely to default to carbide.

My 2 cents.
 
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