LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner
  • Please post in our Community Feedback thread for help with the new forum software! If you are having trouble logging in, please Contact Us for assistance.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
So i just finished making a rock solid router table extension for my table saw. I used 3/4" MDF sandwiched between 2 - 1/4" pieces of baltic birch. I got it all perfect and when i was ready to use it i realized…the table was to thick and the bit couldn't reach past the table top. So what should i do?

As far as i can see my options are buy a table insert or router bit extender. Which would you get and why?

Any other options? Money is tight right now so if there is a free shop made solution please let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
911 Posts
crank49 - I used the Router Xtreme extender for a long time with no problems, and I loved the simple hex-key bit change feature. Granted, my anecdotal experience certainly doesn't prove they are safe/unsafe. I mean, I wouldn't use it with a big honkin' panel raising bit, but for general purposes I thought it was pretty secure and didn't run out.

RT31, how much more reach do you need and what router are you using? A table insert would be better than an extender (unless you want it specifically for the above-table, fast-and-easy bit change like I did). But on a budget, if you aren't using a giant 3.25 hp router could you just recess the underside of the tabletop a little where the router attaches without generating much sag?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,383 Posts
Go to walmart and get one of those strong plastic black cutting boards. Cut a hole in the middle of it so large bids can get through it. Place your router bit at the center and mark your screw holes. Use your router to cut enough wood for your cutting board to sit flush on the table. Fasten your router to the cutting board and place in the opening. Now you have a removable router.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,505 Posts
I got the Rockler insert plate and would do it again in a heartbeat. Works great. The extenders make me nervous. I know they say they are safe, but I look at the dynamics of a system like that and would rather avoid the situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
WOW thanks for the quick responses. Lots of good ideas too.

If i were to recess the bottom of the top. how much material would you recommend i leave between the bottom of the countersunk holes to the bottom of the table? do i need the bottom piece of BB ply or with the MDF be ok by itself?

I am going to mostly use a 1.75 HP Milwaukee router (5615?) in the table and maybe my Bosch 1617.
 

·
In Loving Memory
Joined
·
3,728 Posts
I did the same thing. Then built a poly-carbonate router plate and cut an insert to fit it in.
If there is too much flex for you, screw a couple of pieces of metal angle to the bottom.
That will stiffen the board as much as you will ever need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,080 Posts
Unless I'm missing something I think the OP said he is routing from the bottom.
That would be negative.
Rout out the recess from the top. The insert sits in the recess and comes flush to the top of the bench top..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
911 Posts
WOW thanks for the quick responses. Lots of good ideas too.

If i were to recess the bottom of the top. how much material would you recommend i leave between the bottom of the countersunk holes to the bottom of the table? do i need the bottom piece of BB ply or with the MDF be ok by itself?

I am going to mostly use a 1.75 HP Milwaukee router (5615?) in the table and maybe my Bosch 1617.

- RT31
Looks like there's a bunch of confusion here. Are you routing a big recess in the underside of the table so that you can bolt the router directly to the table underside? Or, are you planning on putting an insert plate in the table (and routing a rabbet around the perimeter of the hole in the table to support the plate)?
 

·
In Loving Memory
Joined
·
3,728 Posts
Using angle iron or angle aluminum will stiffen the span of the hole so much that you could cut it to 1/4" thick from both sides if you want, use a router plate of your choice and I doubt it would flex enough to be able to notice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea understand that if i was to make an insert i would need to route a lip on the top of the table for the plate to sit on.

I was asking about routing a recess into the back of the table and mounting the router directly to the table. I was also thinking about making my own table insert out of 1/2" MDF or ply. Thats why i wanted to know how much depth would be recommended if going this way.

I guess my fear is that if i only have a 1/4" of MDF between the bolt head and the router base, that one day the MDF is going to tear and i'll have a running router fall on my feet.

I am going to go look at some cutting boards latter but i was laid off a few weeks ago so every purchase feels like a big one and i was hoping to get this done with all scraps i had and not spend any money.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top