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I would like a tablesaw blade recommendation

6777 Views 16 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  douglas2cats
I'm going to be making a bookcase out of white oak and brazillian cherry; both of which are pretty hard. I'm anticipating doing a lot of ripping and am seeking any recommendations on a good quality 10" rip blade. I have a Bosch contractor saw, so its power is limited. I think a good quality blade would be helpful. I'm a hobbyist, so I take the time to clean up my cuts, as necessary, with handplanes.
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I use Forrest blades in all my saws and have not had any problems ripping bc or oak with them. I use a full kerf blade but you might want to consider a thin kerf blade and a stiffener. The brazillian cherry will be hard on your blade. It is about twice as hard as oak.
I'll second the forrest blade recomendation also. I use a thin kerf 10" ultimate woodworker II, and it cuts through any hardwood without fuss, and seems to stay sharper longer than other blades that I have tried.
I use a Forrest blade…. It's expensive, but worth every penny.
Saw manufacturers consider any saw with up to 2 HP as "underpowered". This will include just about all of the saws designed to operate on a 120V 15 amp circuit. This being said, a thin kerf blade will give much better results on this class of saws. For ripping, I recommend the Freud #LU87R010, a 10" 24T blade with a 20 degree hook and a .094 kerf.

I also have a 50T combination blade and a 60T crosscut blade, both thin kerf. While changing blades is a chore on some saws, the results are worth it.
I use freud 24t I cut a lot of oak it cuts smooth all the time
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I've heard great things before about the Forrest blades, so I'm not too surprised by the positive comments.
Brazilian cherry is beautiful, but be prepared to get all your blades sharpened after the project gets out the door.
I have been using Freud blades for a while now and have been pleased with the results. I also considered Forrest but due to cost I went with Freud.
u get what u pay 4
I like Forrest blades but don't care for the "loud whining they cause from the little woman" so to save my ears I just bought a Freud Diablo 24 tooth rip blade…went thru a 2×4 like a hot knife thru butter. Cost me $30.00 at the local lumberyard.
Just want to reiterate with Treverk said. Brazilian cherry will dull your blades faster than anything else out there.
I picked up a blade made for Niel window fashions that they had specially made for cutting window fashions. Its an 8 blade and I use it on my 10 uni-saw and it is the sweetest blade I ever used. THE PART NUMBER IS NM880 8" 80T 2.2MM 5/8 you can get it here and its the same blade only thing is you may not like the price $88.00 on sale it was $110.00 but worth ever penny. I was lucky enough to get 3 for free that were only slightly used and is as sharp as the day it was installed I am still on the first blade a year later but only use it to cut sheet goods although I have been lazy a few times and cut some red oak and maple and it did fine. I cant say what it will do with white oak and a lotof cuts.
You certainly DO NOT want to use an 80 tooth blade for RIPPING purposes in hardwoods !!! I wasted my money on a FORREST blade and went back to my FREUD blades in a heartbeat . Yes , your CONTRACTOR saw will cut easier with a thin kerf blade through the hardwoods .
Thanks again to everyone for the comments. I went to Woodcraft and they don't really have a big selection of blades. I ended up getting a thin kerf Freud rip 24T blade. There was a more expensive standard kerf blade, but this one should handle more tasks for me. In particular, I don't have a bandsaw, so I do all my resawing on the tablesaw. The thin kerf should help with that. Also, the kerf is 3/32" and it is a flat bottom. I have had to use 1/8" or so bits on the router table to cut slots for keys in mitered corners of my boxes because my combination blades make batwing slots. I really dislike doing these on the router table because the bits always want to kick to the side. It takes significant care to prevent that. This blade should make that job much easier.

Worse case, if the blade sucks for ripping this wood, I'll order a Forrest blade online.

Thanks again.
I use a stiffener on my blades, mostly on thin kerf. It does help.

Let us know how you make out.
You got a good blade. That's the one I've used for years (except not the thin-kerf version). I use a Forrwest WWII when I'm too lazy to change blades but have to clean up the saw marks a bit more than the Freud.
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