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I thought you decided to stop the Refinish… and build New??

Change your mind?
 

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I was thinking heat gun and a scraper. I don't own a mop because I've never been given one as a gift. It's just too easy not to pay for;)
 

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I support you building new also, but if you have a lathe, then you might be able to chuck it in and just hold the sandpaper like you were shoe shining it.

All this time I though you weren't willing to take the spindles out.

As far as safe finishes, I hear shellac and linseed oil are safe. Shellac is used to make medicine capsules you ingest. For shellac, use the flakes and use drinkable alcohol (not the 'denatured' stuff) like Everclear. Linseed oil is sold as food, you might know it by its other name: flaxseed oil.

Some ppl recommend tung oil or walnut oil, but I would not use them in case the child has nut allergies. And also some say that food grade mineral oils can be used as a component of a finish, but I prefer not to have distilled from petroleum if possible.

Before you buy anything, checkout the MSDS for the product and it will list the ingredients. Interestingly, this Salad Bowl finish not only has carcinogens, but is even prohibited in California (take a look at it's MSDS). Just like with the food you eat, if you don't recognize the ingredients, don't buy it.

One last note, Woodsmith shop had this nice easy finish which was 1 part each of BLO, beeswax, and turpentine. Until you mentioned it, I never thought this could have been food safe b/c of the turpentine, but I did a little digging and it turns out you can use food grade d-Limonene as a replacement. I haven't tried it, but it's definitely worth a shot.
 

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I kept looking and found this Danish Oil which is FDA-approved for food contact. It also looks like their "Original Wood Finish" is BLO and beeswax. I'm guessing they probably have something like d-limonene as their solvent to dissolve the wax.

It also turns out that not all BLO is the same. Some have metallic dryers to give it the same "effect" as BLO without actually boiling it and apparently the MSDS doesn't have to include them if they are non-toxic.
 

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I've revised my suggestion. Why not bead blast them. I'm sure you have all the tools at your place and just don't know it. 20ga shotgun from about 10 yards should just about do it. If it needs more, then drag it behind the truck for about 5 miles and call it "done".
 

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@Sarit, I am going new material. I'm using red oak and plywood. I checked the MSDS and I think I will use Minwax poly as it is child safe.

@Rance I love you bead blast. But at the moment I only have 12 gauge with no choke, and 00 buck, affectionately referred to as a tactical load. I seem to be fresh out of bird shot. lol Personally, I think maybe you have been sniffing a bit too much of your finishing products. lol Be careful or you will be making an unscheduled appointment with Al. lol

And Mike, my neighbor, dropped off some 60 grit sanding belt from his drum sander. I made a sanding mop with it and MAN is it aggressive. I tried a piece of scrap pine and found out just how much fine dust pine can be. lol This one will be good for removing rust from the car bumper and the chrome too. About the only wood that can stand up to this mop is the lignon vitae.

I bought some sanding belts, 120 grit x 4×36. I'll try them next. I found that the rubber gaskets for water hoses work great for spacers, and very cheap. I used a 3/8×4 carriage bolt and two body washers for the arbor.

Well, back to the proving grounds…...
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Although I have decided NOT to work with this nuclear finished cheap pine, I am intrigued with this sanding mop. I made one with the 60 grit belt Mike dropped off. Whoa Nellie. Very aggressive.

Wood Flooring Floor Art Hardwood


And you can see what it does to a scrap pine piece that is harder than the baby bed pine.

A
Table Wood Rectangle Chair Flooring


And this is hard maple that was smooth cut before.

I'm going to try the 120 grit belts next and I hope this gets sanding mops out of my system for a while. lol
 

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