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... so here's a question for you.

I just installed security cameras around the perimeter of the house. My 200 AMP service panel is also outside.

I plan to add a sub panel inside, but is there any way this sub panel can bypass the main 200 AMP breaker outside?

The point being that I want to keep my cameras on if someone flips the main breaker.

I should probably just put a big UPS system to support the cameras but I need to add a sub panel anyway so I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,

Bothus
 

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wrong! By NEC power main must be accessible from the exterior. If the Main splits to multiple structures, each structure is require to have a disconnect at the sub entrance. You can lock the box but then all a burglar would need to do is pull the meter. Get a battery backup.
 

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I just bought a new house which does not have disconnect outside, so I looked up the NEC requirements. NFPA 70A-2005 Section 230.70 (A) (1) for one and two family dwellings says that the disconnect can be outside or inside, but if inside must be close to where the service enters. However, in looking for the NFPA reference, I saw where some local building codes require a disconnect on the exterior of a building. You probably should check local requirements and/or hire a qualified local electrician.
 

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Mics - Absolutely correct. I misread the post. Bothus did state "inside," I was thinking that he was going to add a second panel on the outside of house. Some local codes allow the service disconnect to be on the inside, california doesn't as I remember, it's been quite some time sense I've done ele. work in cali. I know our local code here in IA requires a disconnect on the outside.

However, 230.70 says that the "service disconnect" can be inside or outside, close to where the service enters the building. I had to use this clause on the last building we built this year. There is a disconnecting means at the transformer and the "Service Disconnect" is located inside at the main 480 V panel. The tansformer is too far from the building to be a service disconnect and no room at the building to add a second disconnecting means.
 

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I would use PoE (power over Ethernet) security cameras plugged into a network switch on a ups. This would give remote connectivity and a plethora of nice hardware recording features.

Likewise, for AC/DC powered cams and complete security systems, even the smallest UPS is all it takes to buy you plenty of time in the event of a power outage.
 

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Great feedback guys. Thanks.

I will use an UPS for the security system.

I still want to install a sub panel in my attached garage. I was planning to put a 125 AMP panel there but the 1/0 wire for that was going to cost me a fortune at Home Depot. I guess I could put in a 50 AMP breaker and use 6/3 cable.

Bigger is better of course. What would you guys do? The run from the main panel is about 60'.

Bothus
 

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Bothus…if the garage is attached and you are refering to 6/3 NM..am I to assume you are routing wire through the building to the sub panel? I asked an electrician and here is what he answered not knowing it was an attached garage. (I forgot to mention it)
Since 6/3 is an NM sheathed cable it's good for 55 amps but you cannot install it inside any sort of conduit so forget that idea. What you need is obviously conduit and minimum #3 THWN for 100 amps. Disconnect and ground rods at the detached garage.
 

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FYI, all service disconnects have to be at one location per national electrical code. UPS is the way to keep the cameras on. A big dog is the best security system ;-))
 

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I have a large UPS system for my camera system, but instead of the battery it had inside. I ran some heavy 10 gauge wire out of the UPS to a large deep cycle marine battery, much longer run time.
 

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I have the best home security method ever created… follow these easy steps and you to can have the security you desire.

1. Place a pair of size 14 boots on your porch, and a copy of "Guns and Ammo"

2. Put a note on the front door that reads as follows.

Jed,

I went to the store to get more beer and ammo. Wait until I get back though because Kujo, Killer, and Clyde got ahold of the mail-man earlier. I think Kujo is ok, but there was a lot of blood so I am not sure yet. I should be back soon, so just hang out in your truck.

signed, Cletus

3. Get a simple motion detector and hook it up to a recording of dogs barking.

That's it… You'll never have any problems.
 

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topomax
Q. If the second building is remote from a dwelling unit, what are the NEC disconnect requirements in Article 225?

Article 225 contains the following requirements: A readily accessible disconnect is required at the remote building, located either outside or nearest the point of entrance inside [225-8]. There shall be no more than six disconnects mounted in a single enclosure, or up to six separate enclosures [230-71]. The disconnects must be grouped and each disconnect must be marked to indicate the load served [110-22 and 230-72].

In other words if a main is split to service two buildings a disconnect must be located on each building.

I'm not an electrician but I have been through this issue on some of my jobs.
 

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All of the service disconnects, up to 6, have to be at a single location. A separarte building has to have a main disconnect to cut off everything in that building. You end up with 2 disconnects for a seperate building if it is fed off the same service as the first buildiing, either a service disconnect or subfeed circuit breaker, then the building's own disconnect.
 

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this issue came up last year in a class i was taking. i brought up the fact of the possible security hazard of having a disconnect mounted to the outside of the house. however, the reasoning for it is fire safety. if (god forbid) you have a house fire, one of the first things the fire department does is turn off your power before they start spraying water. they have to be able to find/disconnect your power quickly, this is why your disconnect has to be at or close to the service entrance.
 
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