[Bcemail]

I was trying to make a baby toy, like this. I cut part of the center out with a hole saw but if wasn't big enough so I needed to cut away more material. I don't have a scroll saw or band saw.

I couldn't get my jig saw to work very well (can't ever get very smooth cuts) so I thought the router table might work. I was using maple, but it kept "grabbing". I'm guessing it was due to grain direction or something but it felt unsafe and once it yanked it out of my hands.

What would be better? If I used the router handheld I would have to figure out a way to clamp it down somehow without the clamps getting in the way. Maybe if I had done it first. If I used a template and guide bushings, would it go smoother? Would I still have the problem of grabbing the grain? Haven't used much hardwood so it's more work then pine or plywood. Thanks!

 

[MadMark]

You got a dimension? Hole saws go up to 6"+. Judging from the grain that hole only looks 2" or 3" in dia.

 

[CaptainKlutz]

Best option is to start over with proper size forstner bit, or hole saw.

To fix your dilemma, could use drum sander mounted on drill press to enlarge hole.
HF sells them, Lee Valley, Peachtree, and many more folks.

Router template and router with template bushing will work, but would have to finish the hole before you cut out the entire toy shape or template routing becomes unstable. Might still need a drum sander to clean up the hole after router?

Best Luck.

 

[BillGo]

I had the same problem (grabbing hardwood and jerking out of my hands) trying to use a straight bit on a router table to follow a template. I had a friend who had a compression bit that he lent me and it made a huge difference. They are very expensive, but if you have a friend who has one… https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14703-57178.html?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&ne_ppc_id=10371521939&gclid=CjwKCAiAsaOBBhA4EiwAo0_AnCd75p8EFOrONdMP6JFHEcRG1L-8A9bJWA05m0AV4sA38AxqoZfE9RoCekcQAvD_BwE

Another thought, for enlarging is using a drum sander. If you don't have a drum sander or access to one. There are drum sanding drill bits. If you have a drill press you could use these. I have a set, and the came with 4 sets of sandpaper (rough and fine). You might be able to use these in your router table, but I have not tried that.

Hope these suggestions help.

 

[Gadabout55]

A coping saw is your friend …

 

[WalkerR]

what size is the hole and how much wider are you trying to make it? Half round rasp followed by some sand paper. The drum sander suggestion is a good idea if you have one.

 

[therealSteveN]

Hole saw or big Forstner will get you a true hole. Most other tools it will be kinda round.

 

[Scap]

Assuming you still have the "donut hole" you cut out, you could put it back in place and attach it to a backer board. Then use the original pilot hole to guide the hole saw bit you're wanting to use.

 

[tvrgeek]

I would cut the hole first with a bit of stock large enough to hold/clamp etc.
A jig saw should be good enough if you have the right blade. A coping saw is the old school jig saw and should be within sanding. As I have a spindle sander, even easier. But you want to use a round over on both sides, so a router seems to be a better choice, just start with a bigger piece. It should only grab if you are feeding the wrong direction and too big a bite. Rasp, sandpaper over dowel, many many ways.

 

[Finn]

"I would cut the hole first with a bit of stock large enough to hold/clamp etc…"- tvrgeek

Make the hole with a hole saw and then cut out the outer shape.

 

[splintergroup]

Normally if the bit/hole saw was not an option, I'd use the router table with a top/bottom bearing template bit (or a compression bit $$$ as Bill describes).

With the T/B bearing bit, one can always cut the grain "down hill", flip the part, raise/lower the bit, then finish. If the part is small (under 8" diameter or so) I'd make a jig to clamp the piece down for safety. Probably only worth the effort if you plan on making a number of them.

Given your reference picture however, I'd invest in a hole saw and round over the edges with a router bit. The key is to do this part before cutting the outer profile from a larger board. This gives you plenty of "meat" to hang onto while doing the drilling and routing.

A jig saw or band saw would be very helpful for the rest, otherwise you'll be spending a lot of time with rasps and sandpaper.

 

[LesB]

There have already been some good suggestions on how to approach the problem from the beginning.

From your question: "If I used the router handheld I would have to figure out a way to clamp it down somehow without the clamps getting in the way. Maybe if I had done it first. If I used a template and guide bushings, would it go smoother? "
You could make a correct size template hole in a piece of 1/2" plywood that is long enough to straddle your piece so clamps on each end could hold it securely sandwiched against a work bench surface and not be in the way while you use the router to complete the hole. You might have to do it in incremental steps going deeper with each pass to reduce the stress of the bit and the clamped item. I would suggest a spiral bit, probably oriented for down cuts.

I do this all the time to make circular dados in the bottom of blanks I'm preparing to mount on the lathe chuck.

 

[kelvancra]

SOMETIMES, you can stack two hole saws, using the first to guide the cut of the second. It depends of the length of the mounting threads.

For using a router, this is how I did that for holes in wood to make jar lids (posted on my Instructables web pages):

https://www.instructables.com/Doll-Up-Your-Mason-Jar-With-a-Wood-Lid/

I'm going to make another lid guide, but this one will use two pieces of ply so the piece being routered can be clamped between the base and the guide just using common jig knobs and 1/4-20 bolts or screws.

 

[Bcemail]

Thanks for all the great tips! I will probably buy a bigger hole saw to get the job done, but didn't want to have to drive to the store when working on the piece. I also like the idea of the drum sanders on the drill press, although I thought I had read that it can damage the drill press because of the lateral pressure? And I can probably can get the jig saw to work, mine just always feels like it's going to shake itself to death when making tight turns.

Good ideas for clamping stuff down on the router table. I need to try and figure out the grain better, I think that was the problem with the grabbing, but I couldn't figure out how exactly. When I try again I will likely use the router hand held with the piece clamped down, rather than trying to move the piece on the table.

Thanks again!

 

[John Smith_inFL]

what size hole ?? how many are you wanting to make ? one or a hundred ?
it is not a tool for the weak-hearted or inexperienced woodworker,
but, I have been using the adjustable circle cuter for many, many years.
up to six inch diameter with pretty smooth cuts.

 

[bndawgs]

The instructables for that toy say to use a 2 1/8" hole saw

 

[MikeB_UK]

what size hole ?? how many are you wanting to make ? one or a hundred ?
it is not a tool for the weak-hearted or inexperienced woodworker,
but, I have been using the adjustable circle cuter for many, many years.
up to six inch diameter with pretty smooth cuts.

- John Smith

Chuck one of those in a hand drill straight out of the packet and it's brown trouser time

For the slightly weak hearted
Use in a hand brace, reprofile as close to a batwing (centre point) bit as you can with only one edge - i.e If you make a spur on the outside with a steep angle for a 1/32 or so, then a slight skew angle for the rest you can make very neat cuts.

Might work Ok in a drill press if the balance isn't too bad for you machine types, but I think we are into weak-hearted territory again.

 

[LesB]

You keep talking about "grabbing". I hope you are aware of the proper direction to go when using a router. It is agains the rotation of the bit, usually left to right when the router is upright. If you go with the rotation the router will climb and grab and jump forward. When cutting cross grain areas there may be some burning depending on the wood and how much you are trying to cut off at one pass. It is a good idea to allow for a shallow final pass to remove any rough cuts and burning.
Here is a video if it will help.

 

[Dark_Lightning]

I saw a video awhile back where the guy needed to make a bigger hole and already had a hole. He used the original hole saw as a guide for the larger hole saw. That will of course be a wild ride, but that's only going to be on the prototype, right?

 

[kelvancra]

Don't forget, if doing a picture frame (I've done hundreds), it's left to right on the outside and the opposite on the inside. This, in the hole, is the inside.

You keep talking about "grabbing". I hope you are aware of the proper direction to go when using a router. It is agains the rotation of the bit, usually left to right when the router is upright. If you go with the rotation the router will climb and grab and jump forward. When cutting cross grain areas there may be some burning depending on the wood and how much you are trying to cut off at one pass. It is a good idea to allow for a shallow final pass to remove any rough cuts and burning.
Here is a video if it will help.

- LesB