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I have a piece of pecan that is 24" wide and only 0.20" thick at the thinnest point. I want to beef it up with contrasting wood, walnut or cherry. to a finished project thickness of 3/8"(pizza peel). My first thought was to glue it up cross grain-wise for strength.
1)Would wood movement cause this to be a bad thing at this thickness?
2)Since the contrasting wood is not this wide, would it be best to make it (edge-grain glue) the finished size and then glue it to the pecan?
Hope that's clear. Thanks, in advance.
Candy
 

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If you have a bandsaw and can do resawing, I would first cut the pecan down to smaller widths, say 6" or 8"; then resaw to 1/16" thickness; then use the walnut or cherry as the center ply with the pecan as the two outer plies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Really want to keep the pecan as one piece, Ron. Is there a reason, other than ease of use, to not keep it full width? I'm already planning on hand planing it to uniform thickness, hopefully 1/8".
 

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1)Would wood movement cause this to be a bad thing at this thickness?

Yes, I believe it would be a problem unless you laminate 3, 1/8" sections like a piece of plywood to get your 3/8" desired thickness.

2)Since the contrasting wood is not this wide, would it be best to make it (edge-grain glue) the finished size and then glue it to the pecan?

Yes, I would do that way but I would not glue it cross grain to the pecan, glue it long grain to long grain.
 

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If it's possible for the design, I'd glue the woods to either side of a piece of good thin plywood, plane the faces down, and you're home free. A sheet of good thin plywood is your golden ticket to a whole world of using exotic and odd pieces, oysters, and so on, without have to fiddle with veneers. Just do both faces and keep them about up to 3/16s thick.

Otherwise, you have to glue up at least three pieces, in which case you're effectively making plywood anyway, as bondogaposis said.
 

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IMO, cross grain glue ups @ 0.125 per ply thickness is tough to make work.
I presume that you want the pecan to be the upper or lower layer in the peel.

Thin ply glue ups MIGHT work if you have a vineer press.
Remember a peel will be subjected , at least on the leading edge to extra heat.

Edge grain or face grain would up better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bobro, in this particular application, I don't think the ply would be a good idea. I will keep it in mind for other projects.

ksSlim, no veneer press here. I did recently pick up some ShopSmith double bar clamps which are advertised to be able to be used as a press. We will see. Yes, the pecan will be the 'face' of the peel.

Thank you, both, for your thoughts and advise. Really appreciate the time and consideration.
 

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Thanks for the input, Bondo. So you re saying the cross grain gluing would be OK if the layers are 1/8"?

- CFrye
Yes, I think so, make sure you clamp the heck out of it. The rule for lamination is that both sides have to be the same or balanced. The top and bottom layer should have the grain in same direction, middle layer grain 90° to top and bottom. I would also use water proof glue, because I assume you are going to want to wash a pizza peel at some point.
 

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1)Would wood movement cause this to be a bad thing at this thickness? YES - you are a little more than 3/16 thick so it will move like solid wood and not like veneer.

2)Since the contrasting wood is not this wide, would it be best to make it (edge-grain glue) the finished size and then glue it to the pecan? Maybe

keep the grain running one direction, i think you will find that the just the simple fact that you laminated it it will be much more rigid. Make sure you glue it flat, because it will behave more like other bent rocking chair laminations, and will hold whatever shape you clamp it too. (not as well as 4 or 5 plies) but the rigidity will be substantially higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bondo, is the rule of lamination only referring to cross grain or aligned grain as well? I think I'm going with the aligned grain glue up so I just need to decide the thickness of the contrasting wood. 1/4"? Or will that cause problems?

DrDirt, strength, more than rigidity, is what I'm after (I think). Don't want to be cutting a pizza and split the peel! It should be sitting flat on a table or trivet when cut, but you never know! Will definately strive for flatness. Thanks for sharing.
 
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