I made this one probally 5 years ago, has worked real well for me, heck it sat in the weather under a tarp for over 6 months after hurricane Charley took the roof off my old workshop. Im gonna start a new router table hopefully this weekend and still thinking about if I want to hinge it again, its so handy or get a router with height adjustment built in. it makes ya think a little more about how to build your fence though, like take the fence off or have it move with the top. old router table
i also havent made one, but i really like the idea of it. if i every make a new router table i think it will be one like this.
i'm not sure why randy mentions the fence… i mean, the fence would be locked down anyway, so why should it matter if it the table top moves or not? maybe i just havent seen enough router table fence designs
Are legs measuring 4" X 4" really necessary? What are they supporting, 20 pounds, maybe? Plywood or MDF casework makes more sense to me than this crazy post-and-beam design, unless you're coordinating your router table joinery with your shaker barn workshop, maybe. Randy's design is much more practical.
You bring up some good points. Plywood or MDF casework would be practical and offer better storage.
4×4 legs are not necessary, but adding weight to the base of the table offers better machine dynamics (less vibration). Using the 3/8" rod to join the members in the base ensures that the base will be rigid regardless of seasonal movement.
Also, as you alluded to, I wanted to match my workbench.
I guess there is only one way to see if the post and beam is worth anything. I built the base this weekend, and will mount the router shortly.
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