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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased this DP a few years back, and it's been a great addition to my shop. It replaced a much smaller bench top 5 speed DP.

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First project was to get it mobile. Everything in my basement shop needs to be on wheels:

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I then used it for almost five years before deciding I needed a better table, light, and dust collection.

Tackled the table first:

Table Furniture Wood Desk Saw

Had to extend the elevation crank and column lock:

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Wasn't really pleased with the OEM crank, so go on eBay, and direct from China:

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The larger diameter wheel is a game changer. So much easier and smoother, than the crank.

Went on to re-do the really bad design/engineering of the light. Still utilized the OEM on/off rocker switch:

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Made a mounting board for my 4" vise:

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Finished up adding a dust collection to it:

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4" reduced to 3", reduced to 2.5". Rockler Dust Right hose kit. I heated up a short length of 2.5" PVC with a heat gun, shoved the Dust Right hose end into it, and 'Bob's your uncle'. Painted the reducer/pipe with some semi-gloss and called it good.

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246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Any chance of a link to that China shop and details of the "extension" shaft?
I'm interested in how you extended the crank and column lock.
Here's the eBay link: 3" - 16" Round Iron Hand Wheel Chrome Plated Handwheel for Milling Machine Lathe | eBay I got the 10" wheel, took a bit less than a month to receive from China. It's drilled/tapped (10mm) for the crank handle, but the center hole is only drilled. I believe it's also around 10mm, don't recall as I had to open it up to 5/8". According to my son, who does my machining, it's also off center. Having a son with a metal lathe in his garage, and a former machinist, is a blessing.

I extended the crank and column lock using 5/8" steel rod.

My son machined the rod on crank side down to 1/2", to work with a locking collar. The other side of the collar was opened up to (IIRC) 14mm to match the pinion gear shaft.

It was then just a matter of boring out the hole in the 10" wheel to 5/8", then cross drill the casting for a set screw.

The shafts (crank and lock) are supported by pillow block bearings (pic is example, not bearings I used):

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These are mounted to oak blocks under the table. It was a bit tricky getting the correct dimension so that the shafts would be fairly level.
Here's link to the ones I used:

The column lock side was easy, as I only had to have my son machine another length of 5/8" rod down on one end, so I could run a 12-1.75mm die over it:

On the other end is just a short piece of 7/8" hexagonal stock with the center bored to 5/8" about 3/4" deep, to accept the shaft. It was then welded. I use a regular 7/8" 6 point socket and a short 1/2" drive ratchet to tighten/loosen it.

I had to leave the pillow block on the locking side a bit loose, as the combination of how the locking collar was machined (not real precision), and the rotation of the shaft, would tend to bind. Now it works good.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can take some additional measurements and pics if anyone is interested or has questions. I rarely draw up plans for these projects, as they are always engineer/design as you go jobs. And jobs that I'll probably never tackle again.
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