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First post here! I bought a bookmatched set of walnut slabs and intend on making a coffee table out of it. One slab is OK (the top one in the pic below) while the other one has a good bow in it (the bottom one in the pic below). I think the bow is from the cracked edge on the left of the slab while the rest of it is OK (let me know otherwise).

I was thinking about having it thickness planed down at a local cabinet shop but i think that would result in the tabletop being too thin. What should I do with it besides the fill the gaps with slow cure epoxy trick? Should I just leave it as is and plane the rest of that half flat, leave that edge down turned, and glue it together while compensating for that down turned edge? Take off that part of the slab entirely?

 

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In Loving Memory
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Are these air dried? Kiln dried? What is the moisture content? Have you let them acclimate to the atmospere they will live in?

I have a 4" slab that curled as soon as I cut it, but after about 6 months in the shop it was completely flat.
Now, mine was standing dead, but had been dead for about 2 years before I cut it down.

Take your time, ask questions, research and you are already in the best place you could be for learning.
 

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What will you be doing for a base? If these will float on top of a base and no joinery is involved I would leave them, fill cracks and butterfly. Or you could build yourself a set of router rails to flatten, even flatten via hand planing. I think you can work with what you have though.
 

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As of right now I'm planning on bolting steel table legs straight to the underside of the top…unless that's a bad idea and you all recommend something different. The table legs will be these legs in brushed steel:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/151783293/steel-table-legs-rect-stock-black-matte?ref=cat_gallery_10&ga_search_query=steel+table+legs&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=all

I'm halfway decent with a hand plane if the grain is straight but I haven't been able to get the knot area cleanly. If it's OK as is I'm planning on flattening it (leaving the cracked/downturned area as is) with my old #6 Stanley and get the knot area with an orbital sander and 80 grit sandpaper.
 

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If you are willing to invest some money a power planer works wonders for this sort of thing. I bought an older power planer for $30 a few months ago and it worked very well at flattening a slab I split by hand. The cabinet shop would also work if the slabs will fit in their machinery but do not send them in until after you have stabilized the cracks.
 

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If you are looking for table or bench legs, this is a good place to go. Here is a pic of a pecan bench that I made where the top was not perfectly flat. These legs have a good wide plate for fastening that can easily be shimmed to get the bench or table to sit perfectly level.

Table Wood Outdoor bench Rectangle Floor


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Bicycle part Bumper
 

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Tug - where are you located? Those legs are pretty pricey for what you're getting; $15 worth of hot rolled steel and some paint.

If you're near Indianapolis and want to buy the steel, bring it to my shop and we'll make some legs for you while you wait. Even powdercoat them any color you like. Shouldn't take much over a couple of hours at the most.

Kind of a pain in the butt to ship something that large and heavy. Probably not very cheap, either.
 

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Thanks for the offers for the table legs but unfortunately I already bought them. I googled around and couldn't find any that I liked so I bought some. Wish I would've found this forum first! I think the ones I bought were $180/set. I'm in Statesboro, Georgia, BTW.

I think I'll leave the droopy part as is and fill and butterfly it. I don't want to thin the top as much as it would take to flatten it.

Dumb question. For butterflies do I use quartered wood or flat sawn? Grain long ways I assume?
 

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As of right now I m planning on bolting steel table legs straight to the underside of the top…unless that s a bad idea and you all recommend something different. The table legs will be these legs in brushed steel:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/151783293/steel-table-legs-rect-stock-black-matte?ref=cat_gallery_10&ga_search_query=steel+table+legs&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=all

I m halfway decent with a hand plane if the grain is straight but I haven t been able to get the knot area cleanly. If it s OK as is I m planning on flattening it (leaving the cracked/downturned area as is) with my old #6 Stanley and get the knot area with an orbital sander and 80 grit sandpaper.

- tugboat1980
next time you want legs like those those go to a weld shop just about any steel fabricator can do that in an hour or 2. in someone's garage maybe 4 of they don't have the right equipment.

A belt sander works well for flattening wood.
 

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Those legs are pretty pricey for what you re getting; $15 worth of hot rolled steel and some paint.

- Earache
I'm going to respectfully disagree on that one. I think their prices are very fair given the product. You offered to make them, a couple hours at the most. Let's say 3 hours from the minute he walks in the door and starts describing what he wants, design, construction, powder coating, to the minute he walks out. You've got at least one person tied up in this, and the equipment, and the materials. The website is charging $133 for the set. For 3 hours, that works out to $44/hr combined for labor and materials. Seems fair to me, but then again I don't go to fabrication shops much.

That's sort of like saying, "Why is that coffee table retailing for $800? It's only got $150 worth of wood in it.."
 
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