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Hay All,
I need help with my band saw, planer and old Walnut. I got some big chunks of Walnut that it about 49 years old. This stuff is hard as a rock. I needed to re-saw it so I put my resaw blade on my 14" Delta band saw, set the fence for the drift and went at it. I re-sawed 4 or 5 pieces that were 6 ½" square and about 13" long. No problem. I resawed them down to around an inch thick so I could joint and plane to where I wanted it. Here is my dilemma. All of a sudden I can't keep the wood tight against the fence. The blade forces the wood away from the fence. I'm using a feather board just before the blade and one of my jointer push paddles but no matter how much pressure I put against the fence the saw forces it away from it. I stopped and reset everything. The blade and it's tracking, I squared the table to blade and reset the fence for drift all to no avail. So while I'm thinking how to correct this I decided to joint and plane what I have. Now the second problem. I put the Walnut into the planer after I jointed a face and it chattered like a bitch and the planer chewed it up. I figured I didn't have enough pressure on it so I lowered the cutter head a bit and tried it again. This time it kicked back on me. I ripped my planer apart, cleaned everything and changed the blades. That didn't help. My questions are :
Bandsaw, could all of the problem be due to a dull blade? I did work it pretty hard. Planer, is the wood to short or too hard? It seems the lighter of a cut I make the more chatter I get. Any advice or help would be welcome 'cause I don't want to ruin any more of this Walnut.
Thanks,
 

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The band saw problem sounds like a dull blade.
The planer problem, again sounds like the head isn't locked. But, you probably checked that.
I take it that you had no problem at the jointer?
Is the grain pretty wild on the side you wanted to plane?
You might try feeding it at an angle.
BTW, did you try another species on the planer…..just to check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking it was a dull blade on the band saw. As to the planer. I did have some chatter on the jointer that bothered me but it wasn't terrible. I did run some Maple and Alder through the planer and that went through without a hitch.
 

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I agree that the first thing to try on the Bandsaw is a fresh, sharp blade. If you are having excessive resistance when pushing the wood through. I had a similare problem while resawing some beech recently and the problems went away immediately with a new blade. The plane sounds as if you could be going against the grain, causing it to lift the grain (tearout). You could flip the board so the the opposite end goes in the planer first and see if that helps. You could try building an auxilliary table that fits inside of your planer that cane provide better support for the work piece. This improved the performance of my planer a bunch. It also help to minimize snipe a lot.
 

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If your bandsaw is well adjusted and tracking properly it's probably a dull blade. As for the jointer, I think 13" is too short. I would advise you to tape it to a longer piece of Melamine coated chipboard with double sided tape. The longer board will keep your work piece on the rollers all the way through instead of tipping at the end. Melamine because it's very flat and the tape should be relatively easy to remove. You should also make sure to feed it through so the knives are not cutting against the grain. You can see grain direction on the edge of the workpieces.
 

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I'll get a new blade for the band saw. I did turn the wood around also thinking I was going the wrong way. It still chattered and chewed up the wood. It's scaring me especially when it kicked back. I have never have that happen with the planer I've run shorter pieces through the planer with no problems but this Walnut is rock hard.
BTW. What is the best resaw blade for a 14" Delta band saw? If I can't plane the Walnut then I'll resaw it to the thickness I want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stefang, If I tape the Walnut to a longer board How would the longer board contact the rollers to keep the wood still? Or does it matter?
 

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Don,

I think that what he meant was to tape it to a piece on the sides, not face to face. I had a short piece I wanted to plane recently and that was how I did it. I used a piece the same thickness as my work piece, but longer, and attached them to each edge of the work piece. This kept the work piece going through. I actually used hot melt glue instead of tape. It worked beautifully. In my previous comment, I did not notice the length of the work piece. Another idea, 13" isn't a large piece, why not hand plane it. It would probably take less time than trying to rig up something to work on your planer.
 

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I don't doubt the possibility of a dull blade on the band saw. Also have you tried using a pivot point instead of a fence. The question I have and hasn't been mentioned yet is what size blade are you using to re saw with? You should be using at least a 1/2" to 3/4" wide blade with about 3-4 teeth per inch. Doing this made a difference in re sawing some figured walnut I have. Which also raises the question as to is the grain straight or is it figured grain? If your grain is figured it will chatter and tear out going through the planer.For figured grain I would use a toothing plane or use a drum sander to thickness the wood to avoid chatter or tear out. The length of 13" falls into the minimum size to safely run through the planer. What Stefang was referring to is on the sled you also double tape runners to the side that allow the rollers to catch and allow you to run smaller stock through the planer.
 

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I'm so gland to find LJ. There are so many good people here sharing their knowledge and experience. I'm learning things even before I have the tools to try the techniques. I just got a 13" band saw and haven't done anything with it yet.

Don, thanks for posting a good question and thanks to all for sharing your solutions.

What a great place to learn.
Bob
 

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I feel like I've seen this question before somewhere :) One other thing I'd mention is that one time I ran into this problem because I had raised the height of my bandsaw guides a good 6", and forgot to double check the rear bearing guide adjustment. As such, the side bearing guides were actually contacting the tooth bevels of the blade until I realized the issue. By that time, the guides has essentially burnished one side of the blade, causing it to want to wander quite a bit to the left where I previously had no drift. This likely isn't the problem here, but just a gotcha to look out for. It doesn't take very long to ruin a perfectly good blade, as these things can be pretty sensitive even minor problems with the blade.
 
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