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Alright i bought a used Delta table saw from a fella a few months ago. Im fairly new to wood working and power tools so bear with me. It doesnt seem like a cheap saw at all. Its all metal. WEll i bought the saw for 60 bucks. I only used it a few times for a few cuts. Well i used it a few weeks ago to rip a 2×4 to make some posts for my garden. Well in the midst of the cut the blade started struggling i guess and it cut off. I pressed the "reset " button and turned the saw back on. It started working. I thought maybe i was trying to feed the wood to fast so i tried again much slower.. . same thing happened except this time when i tried to press the reset button it wouldnt "click" if that makes sense. It wouldnt reset and i cant get the saw back on. Should i bite my toungue and accept a small loss of the saw or should i attempt to fix it? Is it worth fixing? Will it be hard or expensive to fix? Any help is appreciated

here is a picture of the saw

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Sounds like a thermal issue as that is what causes the protection to trip whether it be caused by a mechanical or electrical problem. Have you tried resetting after several hours to let it cool down? It may be that the bearings are bad causing the overheat or it may be that there is some other problem with the motor. Even considering that it was only 60 bucks I doubt if it would be worth it to have the motor replaced or repaired unless you could do it yourself.
 

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I'm no expert on electric motors at all, but… if you are not the electrical-genius type (no, me neither) who can take the thing apart and start troubleshooting on your own, having the motor fixed by someone else or replacing it is going to cost more than you paid for the saw. At some point, I guess the question becomes "How much am I willing to spend to have this saw working again?"

Only you can answer that, but I'd look at the prices of some new saws to get an idea before you decide.
 

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ok brent i have this same saw as a second saw it has a direct drive motor and more then likely the little thermal switch that you press to reset it ether needed time to cool or is bad i have replace it on mine many times over 15 years. the switch is worth replacing also make sure you didn't throw a beaker in the process. the next bit of advice i can give you on this saw is don't skimp on blades for it the better your blades for it are the less work it will have to do a good combination blade like a forest ww II or Freud fusion while expensive well keep this saw in service far longer then any thing else you can do.

one last thing if you tune up this saw it is almost impossible the get the blade perfectly true to the miter slot so make sure you set up you fence so its true to the blade and not the slot.

hope that helps

regards jason
 

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i have to chime in here too, I doubt your reset switch has gone all pear shaped on you but it might have, the cool down will likely fix your problem there, i feel it is the blade as Jason said, combine a dull blade with what was probably a wet 2X4 and you'll pop that switch every time. So I would get a new blade on that thing first, try it, if the problem still exists then order your switch…Just my thoughts.
 

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Since you were ripping 2×4's with the saw, sounds like it might have been a binding issue that caused the saw to overheat. Is your fence parallel to the saw blade? You might have to adjust the fence since its a used saw.

The 2×4 could be the problem too, as you rip it, the cut you are making could be closing up on you, pinching the blade. You might have to stop the cut and insert a wedge to open up the cut before you proceed to keep it from binding. Some saws are equipped with a Rifing Knife to keep the cut open, but not sure if the Delta saw ever had one.

I personally like the new "gold" blade from Home Depot by Rigid, titanium coated, for the money its a great blade and is holding up very well to all my cabinetmaking.

By the way, you can most likely get the owner's manual to your saw on the Delta website that comes in handy when looking for parts for it.
 

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I think your tablesaw functioned perfectly. The cuttoff switch removed power from a dull bound blade just before the motor launched a 2×4 into your chest.

Also, judging by the amount of rust on the top and the elevation screw the saw has led a neglected life well before you purchased it. No crime to put it out to pasture.

Since it is a direct drive motor I'd probably advise against sinking a lot of money into repairs, the lower end saws rarely have the safety features that will help you stay at happy "10," instead of sad "9 and 1/2."

For me, I'd unscrew the reset switch and make sure the componants aren't melted, sniff the motor and do other cleanup/wire tests. Make sure to not use an exension cord, they'll steal enough power to mess with a DD motor. Worst case engine repair/replace would exceed $100. For that price and maybe a little more you could get an okay used induction motor table saw that is built to last forever.
 

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Let us know if it fires back up after cooling down. If it does, spend $30 (or more) and get a decent blade….HD has the Freud Diablo D1040X (40T) for < $30 and it's a very good general purpose blade at a great price. If you plan to rip thick materials and don't need a fine finish, get something like the D1024X 24T ripping blade (<$28).

The alignment and blade selection are very important to performance, as is a good power supply.
 

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I can't believe all of the people telling you to buy a new one instead of fixing it, that is hardly the lumberjock attitude. Finding a used table saw for less that it will cost you to fix it is unlikely. Sure you bought this one for $60, but the next used one might cost you $200 or more. I almost never see used table saws for cheap, and I've been looking for some time.

If the thermal switch is only $14, just replace it. If that's not the problem, you aren't out much, and you'll know its new for the future when you do get the saw running. Worst case it'll need a new motor, find a used one on ebay and you'll be good to go.
 

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ok brent you can try by passing the thermal switch just to see if the motor still works but dont use the saw with out it
 

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It's just the thermal protection switch…it is probably reset by now…it takes 15 minutes or so after it kicks off to cool enough to reset. Ripping a long 2×4 can make the motor work too hard especially if the 2×4 pinches the blade or if you don't have a decent blade. It's probably just a stock 1.5 hp motor.

edit…if it still won't run check the other breaker for your electricity. Maybe you kicked the breaker.
 

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It's not terribly common for tp switches to go bad …pull the access plate to the motor and put a multi meter on the terminals at the motor to make sure you are getting voltage at the motor. Eliminate all the variables before making assumptions. In other words it could be the cord or plug or main switch or…
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mics when i plugged the saw in to the wall and flipped it on and it didnt come on. I wiggled the wires to the back of the reset switch and i felt the electricity going there. So im assuming its getting voltage?
 
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