Dang, that's too bad! I'm not an expert, so I'll refrain from giving advice, in fact, I'm curious what the best fix is too. Scraping off that much veneer would not be fun.
Help from Veneer experts needed
Hi All,
I am in the midst of a 6 table job, stretching my skills a bit with veneer. All has been going well with some previously gained advice from Y'all. I've hit a snag because of a veneer defect in a sheet that I did not notice until after the piece came out of the vacuum bag. I've got a delamination in the 2ply on the edge of the table top and need to fix it. The vendor has been great and is replacing the veneer at no cost, but I'm still out the initial labor and the re-do. I know there is no way to patch the defect and I need to redo the top, but I really need to preserve the substrate. For those of you with the experience here how would you do the best, time efficient repair to the top?
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I am in the midst of a 6 table job, stretching my skills a bit with veneer. All has been going well with some previously gained advice from Y'all. I've hit a snag because of a veneer defect in a sheet that I did not notice until after the piece came out of the vacuum bag. I've got a delamination in the 2ply on the edge of the table top and need to fix it. The vendor has been great and is replacing the veneer at no cost, but I'm still out the initial labor and the re-do. I know there is no way to patch the defect and I need to redo the top, but I really need to preserve the substrate. For those of you with the experience here how would you do the best, time efficient repair to the top?
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My initial thought is to cut out the failure, patch in a piece of veneer, fill any hairline joints and then re-veneer the top… but I'm curious to hear more ideas
I am certainly no expert but the straight grain in that veneer may allow you to carefully cut off a strip that includes the damage and glue a new strip in place on with a similar grain. In fact, it sort of looks like there is already a seam about 3" from the edge that would be a perfect place to cut and remove the old veneer. If you get a nice straight line, patching in a new strip will be fairly easy once you get the old veneer off. Depending upon the type of glue you used, getting the old glue off may be the hard part. If you used hot hide glue, it would be an easy repair because hide glue doesn't have to be completely removed.
Use a Router and rout off to that line where 2 flitches meet. Put in a new piece. No need to do the whole thing.
This is one of the downfalls of using 2-ply. Sometimes these problems don't arise until it's too late. I have done the above multiple times with success.
I actually think single ply, if done properly, is just as good.
If you look in my projects, the 72" coffee table, I had to replace a full flitch in between 2 others. Approximately 12"x 72". Couldn't even tell I did it after. Your would be easier since it is on the edge.
This is one of the downfalls of using 2-ply. Sometimes these problems don't arise until it's too late. I have done the above multiple times with success.
I actually think single ply, if done properly, is just as good.
If you look in my projects, the 72" coffee table, I had to replace a full flitch in between 2 others. Approximately 12"x 72". Couldn't even tell I did it after. Your would be easier since it is on the edge.
Not many know more about veneer than this guy. ^Use a Router and rout off to that line where 2 flitches meet. Put in a new piece. No need to do the whole thing.
This is one of the downfalls of using 2-ply. Sometimes these problems don't arise until it's too late. I have done the above multiple times with success.
I actually think single ply, if done properly, is just as good.
If you look in my projects, the 72" coffee table, I had to replace a full flitch in between 2 others. Approximately 12"x 72". Couldn't even tell I did it after. Your would be easier since it is on the edge.
- CWWoodworking
Loren I used Unibond OneWhat type of glue?
- Loren
CW, there is another issue with the need to match the left half to the right half. Once the other sheets arrive on Friday, I suppose I can look to match the replacement to the left half too…Use a Router and rout off to that line where 2 flitches meet. Put in a new piece. No need to do the whole thing.
- CWWoodworking
Yes. In most cases picking the right flitch/coloration matters. Being straight grained like it is helps.Use a Router and rout off to that line where 2 flitches meet. Put in a new piece. No need to do the whole thing.
- CWWoodworking
CW, there is another issue with the need to match the left half to the right half. Once the other sheets arrive on Friday, I suppose I can look to match the replacement to the left half too…
- ChefHDAN
You may be able to soften it with heat and lift off the damaged veneer. I would use something like a cutting gauge to slit a line then soften the glue and peel the strip off. This approach may not work so test first. With at least some PVA glues you can put glue on both surfaces, dry, then apply veneer with an iron.
This will probably work. We use a glue that's basically the same as unibond one. It will release with enough heat.What type of glue?
- Loren
Loren I used Unibond One
- ChefHDAN
You may be able to soften it with heat and lift off the damaged veneer. I would use something like a cutting gauge to slit a line then soften the glue and peel the strip off. This approach may not work so test first. With at least some PVA glues you can put glue on both surfaces, dry, then apply veneer with an iron.
- Loren
Although if you plan to just replace the small section, I'd opt for just routing it off. Probably faster and you don't have to worry about damaging the part you are keeping.
Loren & CW, I contacted Vacupress and spoke with Darryl, the president and designer of the Unibond One glue. He said that yes it will soften with heat and recommended a heat gun to remove the veneer. They have been a stellar company to work with, I sent an email with the question and received a reply to call the number and ask for Darryl, didn't expect to get the president of the company to answer a pretty simple question but he was a great help and nice guy to boot.
What is it about the substrate that stops from just starting over?
It's 1" C2 ply with a 1"x1"x1 1/8" edge wrap on 3 sides with 1"x1 1/8"x1/2" on the 4th side and it's also already got a polybak laminated to the bottom. Lot's of time & $$$ to start overWhat is it about the substrate that stops from just starting over?
- Robert
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