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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey all! I got a message with some great info from CSmithWoodturnings and with is permission I am posting it on here. He didn't want to leave a long convoluted message, but I found it so informative I wanted to share it with everybody. Enjoy!!!

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"Basically, I buy my beeswax from local honey bee farmers, because if you buy it at woodcraft or other woodworking stores they want to charge you like $4 dollars for a 2oz stick. My local guy sell me a 2 pound block (32 oz) for $10! As far as Application goes, I used to just rub mineral oil with a paper towel into my bowl first( You always want to use mineral oil from your local pharmacy, never the mineral oil at hardware stores. Its a different product all together.) and after I have liberally applied the mineral oil, I would hold my stick of beeswax to my work while the lathe was running and then hold a rag to the work and let friction melt the beeswax into a finish. This process works great, but if you want a finish to where you don't need the power of the lathe to help, or you just want a higher sheen, you can make your own. I began doing this a few months ago. I typically shave and chip a 2oz stick of beeswax and put it in a pot with a cup of mineral oil. You want to heat this up so it will melt the wax, but not catch the oil on fire, so definitely don't boil. After a few minutes you will notice the color changing to a yellowish color. Once you no longer see solid chips, and they have mixed with the oil, put the mixture into a glass or mason jar to cool. Once cooled it turns to a gel form that allows you to apply by hand.

Most finishes are food safe, as long as they have time to cure, but the easiest way to do it, so you have no worries about toxicity is mineral oil and beeswax, or walnut oil. Hope this helps!"
 
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