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Went shopping, today...out of the $20.38 spent...most was on a plane...$15...may have over spent?
Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Scrub plane Hand tool

Not sure IF that is a Model number?
Tool Wood Gas Hand tool Metal

Wood base has a Razee profile...
The metal plate on the handle..
Wood Bumper Metal Concrete Automotive exterior

Design feature, previous owner's fix? There is also a metal wear plate in the mouth opening

Toe is imprinted with "GAGE TOOL CO. Vineland, NJ"

Interesting?:unsure:
 

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Went shopping, today...out of the $20.38 spent...most was on a plane...$15...may have over spent?
View attachment 3853199
Not sure IF that is a Model number?
View attachment 3853200
Wood base has a Razee profile...
The metal plate on the handle..
View attachment 3853201
Design feature, previous owner's fix? There is also a metal wear plate in the mouth opening

Toe is imprinted with "GAGE TOOL CO. Vineland, NJ"

Interesting?:unsure:
Thats an original Gage plane before Stanley got their paws on them
 

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Yep. Corelz beat me to it, but it’s a Gage, Bandit. I’ve been studying up on them. If you have questions, I’ll try to answer. The “auto-set” feature isn’t really all that, but they’re nice enough users for only sorta having a lateral adjustment (move the piece that attaches to the blade left and right in the slot to adjust laterally).
 

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Kent, are the pieces rocking in the jig because they are warped?
I didn't think so. They passed my go/no-go check with the cheapy calipers.

Stairs Wood Tool Floor Flooring


I was using a "factory second" strip of wood to dial-in the jig when it started giving me the issues. There's no sense in risking damage to a production piece if you don't need to, right?

After swapping in a production piece and taking a lot of care, the jig started working better. Dialling-in the plane's settings helped more. It started to work more like it was supposed to.

Automotive tire Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Rim



Wood Engineering Auto part Track Electrical wiring


After switching to a set of calipers that my poor eyes can read, I was able to adjust the height of the auxilliary bed with a shim at one end (worn-out Skip-Bo cards) and get the finished pieces to within 0.010". That's close enough for me.

Now to move on and prepare the stock for some tool trays and some small boxes. This wood is all reclaimed and resawn from pallet stringers, so there were a lot of nail holes to work around but still plenty of clear lumber in small chunks like this. Some of the strips still have nail holes in them. Thes will be used first to make some tool trays. That will give me some practice before I move on to making the boxes with the clear pieces.
 

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@Mosquito (spits out coffee) say what?

that sounds like one helluva deal! What do you have planned for it?
Re-reading it, I guess it was actually 23 orders (for 23rd anniversary), but still, I'll take it lol

To date, despite all the combination planes and bench planes I've had, I've almost exclusively used Stanley mini block planes (#101 and recently #100-1/2), so my intention is to make this my "next step up" block plane, as I've mostly been using my #2 single handed for the sorts of tasks one would normally use a block plane for.

I had been thinking about getting a LN #102 block plane, but this was half the price with the sale and now 1/8 the price after the refund lol
 

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I own that low-angle block, Mos. There are a few jobs where it’s indispensable, but mostly it’s just another BCT too fancy (for me) tool. At some point I’ll replace the allen-head screws with thumbscrews so I don’t have to go find the tiny allen wrench in order to change the height of the skates.
 

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Ok...have taken the Gage Tool Co. plane apart..cleaned every bit of rust off...Trying to decide what to do with the rear handle...replace it, repair the missing horn...keep that metal plate? Or let the fellow I'll be shipping this to in December, figure that out...Iron and chipbreaker have been tuned up. The 2 bolts that fasten the "Frog" to the wood body? I have had way easier bolts to install. They screw into threaded inserts...and it is a bit rough to even get them to start...

Wood sole has a couple small cracks...nothing major...sole is a bit worn from a LOT of use.

Is that "1048" the model number? Waiting on a board, before giving the plane a test drive...

Metal plate under the tote.....I need to pull that off, and clean it, and whatever screws there are, up....tote could stand a refresh on the finish, too.

Stamped into the "stern" is....J.C.Grove...and a "4" under that..
Stay tuned..
 

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I own that low-angle block, Mos. There are a few jobs where it’s indispensable, but mostly it’s just another BCT too fancy (for me) tool. At some point I’ll replace the allen-head screws with thumbscrews so I don’t have to go find the tiny allen wrench in order to change the height of the skates.
Yeah, that's almost my impression of it too. Getting the iron out is clumsy, and I'm probably going to make a place to store the side whatever they're calling them, so I don't have to live with them on it all the time (so I can hunt for the allen key, and allen screws every time I want to use it lol)
 

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Is that "1048" the model number? Waiting on a board, before giving the plane a test drive...
Nope. The model numbers were stamped on the toe, I think. Mostly they’re just the length, but once Stanley bought them, I think they got numbers that matched up with the Stanley system, and then when they went all metal, they got Stanley numbers, but followed by a G.

The metal plate on the tote is part of the “signature” of a Gage. I would keep it, even if I replaced the tote wood. When I replace that wood, I’ll also clean up the bits that attach the tote to the wood.

I’m not sure which size you have, but I have a batch of 2-¼" blades and the plate that attaches to the cap (chip-breaker-ish) that should be ready before thanksgiving. Not sure what the price will be yet, but probably too high for the $50 spending limit, even if I just charge materials cost for the O1 steel.
 

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I know there's been "debates" in the past about whether anodized aluminum would hold up for a plane, so there was a morbid curiosity to find out for myself. I don't see any indication I should have to flatten it, but that would be a concern. I look forward to getting to put it to use, and will probably do a video like I did the Walke-Moore router
 

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Oh, is the sole Aluminum? I have to retract my previous statement. Paying tax and shipping is a price far too steep. These companies making “premium” tools out of aluminum really chap my ass.
 
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