[Blake]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Shooting boards will probably be the next blog in the series… unless I get distracted by dovetail practicing. But I've always wanted a shooting board.

 

[Alonso83]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Thats a beautiful plane restoration, great job

Alonso

 

[brianhavens]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Restored? More like a resurrection! These are the most fun and satisfying, though. Nice results. Can't wait to see some shavings.

 

[sbryan55]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Blake, this plane looks better now than it did when it was new. Great restoration job.

 

[Radish]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Great job(s)!

 

[Timbo]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Very nice restore Blake, looks as good as new!

 

[bigike]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

oh man blake this came out real nice, i wish i got the one i bid on but my money wasnt right at the time. it was in the same shape as yours was too so now i know it would have came out real nice. now i get stuck with buying one of the new style ones from stanley, but still when i get my money right anyway u have a real nice plane there hope to see the work it produces?

 

[blockhead]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Excellent job Blake. It feel great giving an old tool new life. Looks like new.

 

[WayneC]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

You might be interested in this restoration. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/Stanley%2062%20Low%20Angle%20Jack%20renovation.html

Note the reference to the LN blade. Something to consider when you have tried it out.

 

[OhValleyWoodandWool]

Stanley No. 62 Restored, Bench Finished!

Stanley No. 62

After putting the Stanley No. 62 low angle jack plane through electrolysis still had quite a bit of work to do. Here is a "before photo" as a reminder:



In my last post WayneC commented:
I would seal the japanned area using a clear schallac. This will prevent further rust. 3 in 1 oil on the adjustment screw. On the knobs they look repairable to me. Glue and refinish. Given the value of this plane, I would keep the original knobs. I would use a good paste wax on the rest of the metal parts.

Well thats exactly what I did (Thanks Wayne). The Shellac looked great on the old Japanning. Even though it wasn't all there it re-emphasized whats left of it.

And I did decide to repair and refinish the tote and knob and they came out great. The tote was broken in two places (three pieces). So I drilled three holes up through it and drove 2 1/2" finish nails into the holes to reinforce the epoxied joints. Then I stripped the old finish off and applied thee coats of Shellac.

Anyway, here is the finished result:







Woodworking Bench

I also finished my bench! Sorry, I didn't take any more progress photos toward the end. But since the last blog I basically just drilled the 3/4" dog holes, made vice handles, and finished the top with Danish Oil and Wax. Here is the finished project:



Now its time to put it all together and make some shavings!

Wow that sure cames out great

 

[Blake]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

 

[Cory]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

looks pretty good to me, Blake. I've never done dovetails of any kind, much less hand cut. With your skills you should be a pro after a few more attempts.

How do you flush them up? Sanding?

 

[jstegall]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

It turned out good. My first set I could one end backwards. After that I learned to mark the insides or outsides of my boards. I think I made a box…not sure. I practiced on maple because soft woods like pine were too hard to cut to the line. I never really got very good at it, but I did learn how to hide the gaps when necessary.

 

[Blake]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

you flush them with a block plane

 

[mpatman]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

Hey Blake,

They ended up looking not too bad…I am just about to attempt my first dovetails as well on my first project that I will be posting soon.

Mark

 

[lew]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

Blake,

Wish my first (second, third, for…..) attempts were this good!

Nice Job! Really like the little brass layout jig.

Lew

 

[FlWoodRat]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

Blake, you did a great job on those DTs. FYI, I find it easier to cut the pins first, then the tails. Paring blocks make it very easy to clean up the cheeks on the tenons and the pins. You can prevent the tear out of the shoulder cut if you only chop out half way, then flip the board and chop out from the other side. When you do chop out the waste on the first side, don't take it from the outside end of the waste area. Pare down from about half way from the end. This leaves some support of the waste for when you flip the board. Hope this helps and keep up the good work.

Bruce

 

[sbryan55]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

Blake, those look pretty good to me. I have worked on dovetails a lot like I started on Sketchup- a lot of starting and stopping without producing anything that is anywhere near as good as this. This is an inspiration to "get back into the saddle" and try again.

 

[Timbo]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

Looks like a good first attempt Blake, now do that every night after work and you will be pretty darn good by next weekend. Great bench too.

 

[Beginningwoodworker]

First Hand-Cut Dovetails

I finally got a chance to practice hand-cutting dovetails. This is the first time I've made a cut with my new Japanese dovetail saw and use my new bench too.

I started out with a couple scrap pieces of pine:



I drew the tails:



First cut… didn't follow the line so well. It will take some getting used to.



Here are all the cuts. Some are pretty good and some are pretty far off the line.



This photo is AWESOME. Because as you can see, I did a beautiful job at chopping away my tails (instead of the waste). Notice the X's that should not be intact…



Ok, take TWO…

Not even close:



A lot better:



Chop, Chop, Chop:



Not bad for 2nd try:



Cutting the pins went well. It is easier to saw straight down vertically then at an angle like the tails. Here are the pins being chopped:



It did take a little chisel work to get them to fit but not too much.

And here it is (first completed hand-cut dovetails)

Blake nice work, looks better than my first attempt try at hand cut dovetails.