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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Groz planes, Plane and Simple

I have commented all over the net about Groz planes. I really think they are a good option to save some money. My set included a #4 smoother and a low angle block with adjustable throat. It was on sale for about $40-50 over at Woodcraft. Quality-wise they are comparable to a flee market or e-bay Stanley branded plane. I think the Stanley is a bit nicer, but it is definitely a buyer beware situation buying a 30-100 year old plane sight unseen (know what I mean Vern). With the Groz you get a virgin plane that is unlikely to have been truly messed up by someone with good intentions and a file/drill/sandpaper/whatever. With a Stanley of unknown background you can easily find yourself in over your head as a new entry into the world of hand planes.

You will notice that I have not mentioned saving time. Yes, that is the hook. You get a Stanley knock-off. Other than looks and basic features the similarities end and you have to choose your battles. You new plane will require sharpening, flattening of the sole, cleaning up the throat, and some adjustment to get the best performance out of it.

Before you go running off to buy a Lie Neilsen or Veritas check this video:
My initial thoughts on the Groz
I took this video after little use of the planes. I paid the $5ea to have woodcraft sharpen the blades and started using the tools as soon as they arrived. They do work just fine, but are not of the caliber to take to a $50 piece of exotic wood. Heck, they may never be.

At this point I have owned the planes for about a month. I have taken the time to flatten the soles on both. Neither were that great to begin with. Can't say that it drastically effected their performance, but I figured that it would be time well spent none the less. Only issue that I came across was that the block plane's adjustable toe sits differently open vs. closed, so it can only be flat at either extreme. I chose flat at the narrow throat position. Here is a shot closing in on flat. I went until I was flat across the throat, but left the hollow between the throat and heel.


The #4 required some filing at the entry of the throat. A poor casting job had left it uneven, almost jagged, at the edge. A small mill file and about 5 minutes was all that it took to remedy that. If you find that you need to go that route, keep a square close by to make sure you don't go off course and make things worse.

After dressing up the plane bodies it was time to move onto the blades. Here is an idea of what you will receive from Woodcraft sharpening…


Ewww gross. To their credit they do actually cut fair in this condition, but imo they are really not too sharp in this state.

The #4 received a Hock blade and cap iron. The Hock iron took a bit more work than I would have liked to get sharpened up initially. But the cap iron was beautiful right from the start. Actually just for s&g I placed both right into the plane and ran a couple of test cuts. They gave a similar cut to the sharpened factory setup. After a good sharpening of the Hock cut very nicely and remedied the chatter I was seeing in the cuts done with the factory blade. The combination of the nice Hock parts ($55 shipped at Craftsman Studio) and the tuned up plane body this smoother now lives up to its name and really can smooth hardwood. It still has some tearout on difficult grained walnut, but I have my doubts that any plane other than a scraper could deal with this board.

The low angle block got a full service sharpening. A few times over in fact. I got impatient the first couple of times and rushed to higher grit paper/stones before those deep factory marks were really gone. The state that this blade came from the factory is really a bit of work to get cleaned up. I ended up using a backer board, so I could apply more pressure at the courser grits. I went from 120g on granite to 220 on granite, 400g on cast iron, 4000g waterstone, and 6000 waterstone to flatten and polisth the back. The bevel was prepped on water stones (800,4000,6000), leaving the Woodcraft hollow grind.
Results:



With prep and tuning these Groz planes went from functional to enjoyable to use. I can pull shavings about .001" thinner than before (full width). Surface finish left by them is very smooth. Their only limitation seems to be that their throats don't adjust narrower. If you get into a situation that requires a narrower throat you will need to shell out for a high end plane from Lee Valley or Lie Neilsen.

So do I recommend these??
Yes. No. It depends on who the user is. If the user has no interest in tuning these planes to maximize performance then I definitely wouldn't recommend them. If the user is on a tight budget and can donate a bit of time to figuring out how to work these then I would recommend them. Personally I think they are a good value.
 

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Groz planes, Plane and Simple

I have commented all over the net about Groz planes. I really think they are a good option to save some money. My set included a #4 smoother and a low angle block with adjustable throat. It was on sale for about $40-50 over at Woodcraft. Quality-wise they are comparable to a flee market or e-bay Stanley branded plane. I think the Stanley is a bit nicer, but it is definitely a buyer beware situation buying a 30-100 year old plane sight unseen (know what I mean Vern). With the Groz you get a virgin plane that is unlikely to have been truly messed up by someone with good intentions and a file/drill/sandpaper/whatever. With a Stanley of unknown background you can easily find yourself in over your head as a new entry into the world of hand planes.

You will notice that I have not mentioned saving time. Yes, that is the hook. You get a Stanley knock-off. Other than looks and basic features the similarities end and you have to choose your battles. You new plane will require sharpening, flattening of the sole, cleaning up the throat, and some adjustment to get the best performance out of it.

Before you go running off to buy a Lie Neilsen or Veritas check this video:
My initial thoughts on the Groz
I took this video after little use of the planes. I paid the $5ea to have woodcraft sharpen the blades and started using the tools as soon as they arrived. They do work just fine, but are not of the caliber to take to a $50 piece of exotic wood. Heck, they may never be.

At this point I have owned the planes for about a month. I have taken the time to flatten the soles on both. Neither were that great to begin with. Can't say that it drastically effected their performance, but I figured that it would be time well spent none the less. Only issue that I came across was that the block plane's adjustable toe sits differently open vs. closed, so it can only be flat at either extreme. I chose flat at the narrow throat position. Here is a shot closing in on flat. I went until I was flat across the throat, but left the hollow between the throat and heel.


The #4 required some filing at the entry of the throat. A poor casting job had left it uneven, almost jagged, at the edge. A small mill file and about 5 minutes was all that it took to remedy that. If you find that you need to go that route, keep a square close by to make sure you don't go off course and make things worse.

After dressing up the plane bodies it was time to move onto the blades. Here is an idea of what you will receive from Woodcraft sharpening…


Ewww gross. To their credit they do actually cut fair in this condition, but imo they are really not too sharp in this state.

The #4 received a Hock blade and cap iron. The Hock iron took a bit more work than I would have liked to get sharpened up initially. But the cap iron was beautiful right from the start. Actually just for s&g I placed both right into the plane and ran a couple of test cuts. They gave a similar cut to the sharpened factory setup. After a good sharpening of the Hock cut very nicely and remedied the chatter I was seeing in the cuts done with the factory blade. The combination of the nice Hock parts ($55 shipped at Craftsman Studio) and the tuned up plane body this smoother now lives up to its name and really can smooth hardwood. It still has some tearout on difficult grained walnut, but I have my doubts that any plane other than a scraper could deal with this board.

The low angle block got a full service sharpening. A few times over in fact. I got impatient the first couple of times and rushed to higher grit paper/stones before those deep factory marks were really gone. The state that this blade came from the factory is really a bit of work to get cleaned up. I ended up using a backer board, so I could apply more pressure at the courser grits. I went from 120g on granite to 220 on granite, 400g on cast iron, 4000g waterstone, and 6000 waterstone to flatten and polisth the back. The bevel was prepped on water stones (800,4000,6000), leaving the Woodcraft hollow grind.
Results:



With prep and tuning these Groz planes went from functional to enjoyable to use. I can pull shavings about .001" thinner than before (full width). Surface finish left by them is very smooth. Their only limitation seems to be that their throats don't adjust narrower. If you get into a situation that requires a narrower throat you will need to shell out for a high end plane from Lee Valley or Lie Neilsen.

So do I recommend these??
Yes. No. It depends on who the user is. If the user has no interest in tuning these planes to maximize performance then I definitely wouldn't recommend them. If the user is on a tight budget and can donate a bit of time to figuring out how to work these then I would recommend them. Personally I think they are a good value.
Nice review .
I agree with your summary entirely.
Often we overlook valuable tools that require a bit of tuning but with the cost of wood working today it is a very decent alternative to folks with a limited budget and the skills needed to tune these tools.
I have my eye on a 10 1/4 Jack Rabbeting Plane for $32.00 that normally would not get a place in my tool rack at $400.00 of more.
similar design to this Lie Neilson:

Bob
 

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Groz planes, Plane and Simple

I have commented all over the net about Groz planes. I really think they are a good option to save some money. My set included a #4 smoother and a low angle block with adjustable throat. It was on sale for about $40-50 over at Woodcraft. Quality-wise they are comparable to a flee market or e-bay Stanley branded plane. I think the Stanley is a bit nicer, but it is definitely a buyer beware situation buying a 30-100 year old plane sight unseen (know what I mean Vern). With the Groz you get a virgin plane that is unlikely to have been truly messed up by someone with good intentions and a file/drill/sandpaper/whatever. With a Stanley of unknown background you can easily find yourself in over your head as a new entry into the world of hand planes.

You will notice that I have not mentioned saving time. Yes, that is the hook. You get a Stanley knock-off. Other than looks and basic features the similarities end and you have to choose your battles. You new plane will require sharpening, flattening of the sole, cleaning up the throat, and some adjustment to get the best performance out of it.

Before you go running off to buy a Lie Neilsen or Veritas check this video:
My initial thoughts on the Groz
I took this video after little use of the planes. I paid the $5ea to have woodcraft sharpen the blades and started using the tools as soon as they arrived. They do work just fine, but are not of the caliber to take to a $50 piece of exotic wood. Heck, they may never be.

At this point I have owned the planes for about a month. I have taken the time to flatten the soles on both. Neither were that great to begin with. Can't say that it drastically effected their performance, but I figured that it would be time well spent none the less. Only issue that I came across was that the block plane's adjustable toe sits differently open vs. closed, so it can only be flat at either extreme. I chose flat at the narrow throat position. Here is a shot closing in on flat. I went until I was flat across the throat, but left the hollow between the throat and heel.


The #4 required some filing at the entry of the throat. A poor casting job had left it uneven, almost jagged, at the edge. A small mill file and about 5 minutes was all that it took to remedy that. If you find that you need to go that route, keep a square close by to make sure you don't go off course and make things worse.

After dressing up the plane bodies it was time to move onto the blades. Here is an idea of what you will receive from Woodcraft sharpening…


Ewww gross. To their credit they do actually cut fair in this condition, but imo they are really not too sharp in this state.

The #4 received a Hock blade and cap iron. The Hock iron took a bit more work than I would have liked to get sharpened up initially. But the cap iron was beautiful right from the start. Actually just for s&g I placed both right into the plane and ran a couple of test cuts. They gave a similar cut to the sharpened factory setup. After a good sharpening of the Hock cut very nicely and remedied the chatter I was seeing in the cuts done with the factory blade. The combination of the nice Hock parts ($55 shipped at Craftsman Studio) and the tuned up plane body this smoother now lives up to its name and really can smooth hardwood. It still has some tearout on difficult grained walnut, but I have my doubts that any plane other than a scraper could deal with this board.

The low angle block got a full service sharpening. A few times over in fact. I got impatient the first couple of times and rushed to higher grit paper/stones before those deep factory marks were really gone. The state that this blade came from the factory is really a bit of work to get cleaned up. I ended up using a backer board, so I could apply more pressure at the courser grits. I went from 120g on granite to 220 on granite, 400g on cast iron, 4000g waterstone, and 6000 waterstone to flatten and polisth the back. The bevel was prepped on water stones (800,4000,6000), leaving the Woodcraft hollow grind.
Results:



With prep and tuning these Groz planes went from functional to enjoyable to use. I can pull shavings about .001" thinner than before (full width). Surface finish left by them is very smooth. Their only limitation seems to be that their throats don't adjust narrower. If you get into a situation that requires a narrower throat you will need to shell out for a high end plane from Lee Valley or Lie Neilsen.

So do I recommend these??
Yes. No. It depends on who the user is. If the user has no interest in tuning these planes to maximize performance then I definitely wouldn't recommend them. If the user is on a tight budget and can donate a bit of time to figuring out how to work these then I would recommend them. Personally I think they are a good value.
Hand planes, just like chisels do require some work and prep to get them to do high quality performance. it's just part of the whole experience. and even if you did get a fully honed tool (does anyone really sell such a thing) - after some use, you'd have to resharpen a rehone it anyways, so it's not like you can avoid that normal routine by buying a sharpened tool off the shelf.

food for thought.

Nice review - very detailed! these look like nice tools.

p.s. when I got my stanley benchplane (brand new from the store) the sole was not flat, and I had to flatten it - not to mention the blade that needed sharpening and honing, and the throat that needed some fine cleaning…
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another plane rehab

Stanley 78 this time around. No patent dates and no marking other than the brand and model. Probably not very old. I saw this on e-bay a while back. All the parts, not much rust, and a buy-it-now price set below fair market value. So I snagged it up.


Upon receipt I gave it an inspection. Everything ship shape. Dull blade with a slight back bevel and no longer square may indicate a casual user as the previous owner. About 20 minutes on the granite slab with 120 and 220 grit paper cleaned and flattened the sole and sides. I left the slight hollow seen below. It would require a lot of sanding and I doubt it would improve performance by removing it.


After sharpening the blade, cleaning up the cap, and waxing it up with some parafin it was time to see what I had really bought into…



Verdict: works great, ready for years of service
 

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Another plane rehab

Stanley 78 this time around. No patent dates and no marking other than the brand and model. Probably not very old. I saw this on e-bay a while back. All the parts, not much rust, and a buy-it-now price set below fair market value. So I snagged it up.


Upon receipt I gave it an inspection. Everything ship shape. Dull blade with a slight back bevel and no longer square may indicate a casual user as the previous owner. About 20 minutes on the granite slab with 120 and 220 grit paper cleaned and flattened the sole and sides. I left the slight hollow seen below. It would require a lot of sanding and I doubt it would improve performance by removing it.


After sharpening the blade, cleaning up the cap, and waxing it up with some parafin it was time to see what I had really bought into…



Verdict: works great, ready for years of service
looks good, works good, looks like a keeper to me.
 

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Another plane rehab

Stanley 78 this time around. No patent dates and no marking other than the brand and model. Probably not very old. I saw this on e-bay a while back. All the parts, not much rust, and a buy-it-now price set below fair market value. So I snagged it up.


Upon receipt I gave it an inspection. Everything ship shape. Dull blade with a slight back bevel and no longer square may indicate a casual user as the previous owner. About 20 minutes on the granite slab with 120 and 220 grit paper cleaned and flattened the sole and sides. I left the slight hollow seen below. It would require a lot of sanding and I doubt it would improve performance by removing it.


After sharpening the blade, cleaning up the cap, and waxing it up with some parafin it was time to see what I had really bought into…



Verdict: works great, ready for years of service
Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum
 

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Another plane rehab

Stanley 78 this time around. No patent dates and no marking other than the brand and model. Probably not very old. I saw this on e-bay a while back. All the parts, not much rust, and a buy-it-now price set below fair market value. So I snagged it up.


Upon receipt I gave it an inspection. Everything ship shape. Dull blade with a slight back bevel and no longer square may indicate a casual user as the previous owner. About 20 minutes on the granite slab with 120 and 220 grit paper cleaned and flattened the sole and sides. I left the slight hollow seen below. It would require a lot of sanding and I doubt it would improve performance by removing it.


After sharpening the blade, cleaning up the cap, and waxing it up with some parafin it was time to see what I had really bought into…



Verdict: works great, ready for years of service
Interesting hand plane dsb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

Doug,

To truly see what you can get out of this puppy you need to "joint" the sole. This added attention will payoff big time. And doing it to a corrugated sole is a cinch. I use an offcut that I picked up from a glazier. It's a piece of float glass that's 5/16" thick and measures 11×36. I lay down two strips of self adhesive wet/dry [Klingspor] in four different grits [two on each face] starting w/240 and ending with 600. I can take off .0001" shavings all day. Also, if you work it hard, you might want to think about changing the blade/chipbreaker set. I use a Hock iron and a Clifton Stay-Set chipbreaker. Schweeet!

If you need any more particulars, just ask.

always,
J.C.

P.S. If you joint the sole, remember to keep the blade in it but retracted. In other words, the plane must be in tension as it would be in use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

Thanks for the comments. Normally I would flatten the sole and have done so to all my other planes. I just wanted to get a feel for how this one would do in factory condition. It will take shavings down to about .003 on HM. For a jointer I didn't think that finer work would be necessary. My no.4 and no.5 both can take thinner cuts and smooth after the jointer. I may invest the time down the line, but for now I will test drive it as is.

I will invest in a Hock blade and breaker. This iron has seen about it's fill. It only has about 1/2" left to the slot, so either this plane has seen some use or someone was a bit happy with the grinder during sharpening sessions. End result is that it will need a new iron. The chip breaker has also seen some use and quite a bit of hammer time. I don't know why it would have been hammered on, but it is a bit beat up. Whenever I get the $70 in hand I will promptly pass it on to Hartville or Craftsman Studio for the Hock replacements.
 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

wow…i am really glad i checked this entry…because i was worried YOU were on your 7th re-hab…and like you said they are getting more expensive each time…

beautiful job on the re-hab--and may your health continue…
 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

Nice job on the restoration. You got me to thinking when you mentioned buying these planes from online auctions. My wife got into antiquing a few years ago. (Thank God she doesn't buy much) I've noticed that in several antique shops we've been in and in flea markets you can find all kinds of planes for $15 to $25. I'm not a plane guy but that may be a new source for someone who's into these things. I've looked at a bunch of these and most seem to be just in need of some TLC.
 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

Hah, funny stuff Napaman. Nope, my only affliction is to that marvelous malted adult beverage. I think one actually snuck on camera. Oops.

Darell, one issue with antique dealers is that they mix the valuable and run of the mill together. Now, you could end up with a sweetheart of a plane for a song but you can also end up paying $25 for a plane that is really worthless. My woodie and transitional planes are a great example of this in action. I got both of them for $10. At an antique store they would likely have been priced around $20ea. I think it is great to find these where you can. If you happen to already be into antiques or if you are regularly dragged into places by the spouse then I recommend keeping an eye out. Personally I don't spend the time searching, so I pay a bit more on ebay and take my chances. I have had very good luck so far.
 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum
 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

That's one fine plane. I love my #7.

When will you have enough? ;)
 

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No.7 rehab

I got my No.7 in the mail on Thursday. They have been getting a bit higher in price on e-bay as of late. At least the nicer ones are going more than I care to spend and the rust seized ones are creeping up to about $30-45 at auction close. So I decided exactly what I wanted, a Stanley No.7 in user condition with a corrugated sole. I watched auctions for about a month got outbid on a couple, but stuck within my price limits on each so I don't feel bad about being outbid. Finally one popped up that I was sure wouldn't get too much attention:


A bunch of paint overspray, very minimal rust showing, handles looked decent, but the blade looked short. I had hopes that the paint overspray may have actually protected the plane as well as deterred other bidders. I ended up right on both instances.

The plane arrived in good shape. I put it on my cast iron saw top and got no rocking. I then removed the handles and sanded them down with 180g. After a couple coats of polyurethane they are looking good. I still need to buff them out but I will let them dry a few more days.


I treated the body and the irons/cap to a scotchbrite and wd-40 bathing. The scotchbrite is a bit too abrasive on the japanning, so I will likely skip it there next time. I found that my dremmel tool with a soft wire wheel worked great to remove the paint overspray and not damage the epoxy much.



The end result of about 2 hours of restoration and tuning…










One shot of the growing family.
Roll call:
Stanley Bailey no.7, n0.5
Stanley others: no.78, 60-1/2, no.29 transitional
Groz: no.4 smoother, LA block
Woodies: unknown manufacturer

Chico, there is no such thing as enough. Just ask my missus. HA!

always,
J.C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My newest sweety

Once I started using scrapers I was caught with the bug. They are just so handy, but the drawback to card scrapers is that they can and do catch the second your focus wanders. So I started looking around for the typical scraper, the no.80. I had been watching e-bay for a few days when this 80M shows up.

Hmmm, what's that? Off to Blood & Gore for a quick ID. Apparently it is the ductile iron version of the scraper. Well, that could come in handy. The japaning looked good, but the sole was rusty and no picture of the blade. Seller claimed it to be a sweetheart, so I figured it was worth a gamble. Even at close it was less expensive than a new no.80 and much cheaper than the Veritas.

So it came in yesterday and I hit the net to find some information on sharpening and settings. I gave it a quick hone and was able to pull shavings (smaller shavings in first picture). But it was obvious that a bit more tuning and homework was necessary.

Today I got home and tackled it again, but armed with a bit more knowledge and familiarity with the intended settings. I flattened the sole, lapped the blade holder, flattened the casting where the blade rests, and took a bit more care and time to properly hone the blade. I was rewarded with fluffy shavings and a much more predictable scraper.

I haven't tried it with a burr. There is some debate as to the need for a burr. For now I figure that I will try it out w/o one. If I need to get more aggressive I will burr it.

A few more glamour shots of this Ol'gal. She did cleanup nice for being close to 90 years old.


 

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My newest sweety

Once I started using scrapers I was caught with the bug. They are just so handy, but the drawback to card scrapers is that they can and do catch the second your focus wanders. So I started looking around for the typical scraper, the no.80. I had been watching e-bay for a few days when this 80M shows up.

Hmmm, what's that? Off to Blood & Gore for a quick ID. Apparently it is the ductile iron version of the scraper. Well, that could come in handy. The japaning looked good, but the sole was rusty and no picture of the blade. Seller claimed it to be a sweetheart, so I figured it was worth a gamble. Even at close it was less expensive than a new no.80 and much cheaper than the Veritas.

So it came in yesterday and I hit the net to find some information on sharpening and settings. I gave it a quick hone and was able to pull shavings (smaller shavings in first picture). But it was obvious that a bit more tuning and homework was necessary.

Today I got home and tackled it again, but armed with a bit more knowledge and familiarity with the intended settings. I flattened the sole, lapped the blade holder, flattened the casting where the blade rests, and took a bit more care and time to properly hone the blade. I was rewarded with fluffy shavings and a much more predictable scraper.

I haven't tried it with a burr. There is some debate as to the need for a burr. For now I figure that I will try it out w/o one. If I need to get more aggressive I will burr it.

A few more glamour shots of this Ol'gal. She did cleanup nice for being close to 90 years old.


Cool… I love a good find. It cleaned up nicely- you'll get years of good use from it I'm sure…
 

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My newest sweety

Once I started using scrapers I was caught with the bug. They are just so handy, but the drawback to card scrapers is that they can and do catch the second your focus wanders. So I started looking around for the typical scraper, the no.80. I had been watching e-bay for a few days when this 80M shows up.

Hmmm, what's that? Off to Blood & Gore for a quick ID. Apparently it is the ductile iron version of the scraper. Well, that could come in handy. The japaning looked good, but the sole was rusty and no picture of the blade. Seller claimed it to be a sweetheart, so I figured it was worth a gamble. Even at close it was less expensive than a new no.80 and much cheaper than the Veritas.

So it came in yesterday and I hit the net to find some information on sharpening and settings. I gave it a quick hone and was able to pull shavings (smaller shavings in first picture). But it was obvious that a bit more tuning and homework was necessary.

Today I got home and tackled it again, but armed with a bit more knowledge and familiarity with the intended settings. I flattened the sole, lapped the blade holder, flattened the casting where the blade rests, and took a bit more care and time to properly hone the blade. I was rewarded with fluffy shavings and a much more predictable scraper.

I haven't tried it with a burr. There is some debate as to the need for a burr. For now I figure that I will try it out w/o one. If I need to get more aggressive I will burr it.

A few more glamour shots of this Ol'gal. She did cleanup nice for being close to 90 years old.


Great job of cleaning her up. You'll find lots of uses for that baby.
 
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