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Gun Cabinet Design

1452 Views 23 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Watercolor, 7 mo ago

Austin6

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago (Edited)

Hello, I'm hoping someone can give me advice on something I'm going back and forth with in my mind before I build a commissioned gun cabinet. The cabinet will be built out of solid white oak and in total will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 120 BF. With the doors and lower drawers being removable, I would say the cabinet will be somewhere around 100BF on the actual main cabinet portion. I originally wanted to build this as one solid unit that doesn't come apart because I wanted to provide a rock solid and sturdy project for the client. But as I was offloading the lumber the other night, it occurred to me that I severely underestimated how heavy 6/4 white oak is. Even with the doors removed, I think this cabinet would be very close to 500 lbs which seems absurdly heavy. My question is, should I leave this as one solid unit or break into 2 pieces? If I should separate into an upper and lower, what is the absolute best way to attach the two sections that will be as rock solid as humanly possible? For reference, my general design will be similar to the link below, but mine will be slightly larger to accommodate 2 more guns.

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/mountain-woods-furniture-10-gun-cabinet

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Knockonit

· #2 · 7 mo ago

unless, imo if being site built most that i have seen custom or otherwise were in two pieces, upper long gun cabt. with lower base seperate, however one can build it how ever they like, depends on design, and type of build, good luck, looking forward to see design and execution
rj in az

Reactions: 1

RichT

· #3 · 7 mo ago

I agree about making it in two pieces. I'm confused about your numbers though. I fail to see how that will require 120 BF of lumber.

BurlyBob

· #4 · 7 mo ago

My only suggestion is no glass doors. In today's world you would be wise not to show off your guns. Your friends would probably not cause issues but they might talk to others. Red flag laws and theft can cause you lots of heartache and legal problems.

Reactions: 1

rwe2156

· #5 · 7 mo ago

3

I made mine in two parts just for ease in moving.

@BurlyBob there are display cases, and they are not intended to use as gun safes.

I used acrylic in the door.

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CommonJoe

· #6 · 7 mo ago

Build in 2 halves, I would mount the top of the lower section to the bottom of the base.

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BurlyBob

· #7 · 7 mo ago

RWE, that a real nice looking gun cabinet. My issue on solid doors is security. I remember a few burglary case I has back when I was a cop. A locked cabinet door only keeps honest people honest. Glass or acrylic can be easily defeated.
I don't show people my guns anymore, no one needs to know what I have or where I store them.

Reactions: 1

Austin6

Discussion Starter · #8 · 7 mo ago

RichT said:
I agree about making it in two pieces. I'm confused about your numbers though. I fail to see how that will require 120 BF of lumber.

I was just trying to do a quick add up in my head while making the post. I'm in the preliminary design for this so I don't have the actual numbers in front of me but it will be a very big cabinet. May be closer to 80-100BF.

Austin6

Discussion Starter · #9 · 7 mo ago

BurlyBob said:
My only suggestion is no glass doors. In today's world you would be wise not to show off your guns. Your friends would probably not cause issues but they might talk to others. Red flag laws and theft can cause you lots of heartache and legal problems.

I totally see where you're coming from, but since I'm building it for a client, I really can't make that decision for him.

Austin6

Discussion Starter · #10 · 7 mo ago

rwe2156 said:
I made mine in two parts just for ease in moving.

@BurlyBob there are display cases, and they are not intended to use as gun safes.

I used acrylic in the door.
View attachment 3857799

View attachment 3857800

View attachment 3857798

That is beautiful, how did you do the connection of top and bottom? I didn't want to use screws out of fear of splitting on wood movement. Awesome idea on going with acrylic for the door.

Austin6

Discussion Starter · #11 · 7 mo ago

CommonJoe said:
Build in 2 halves, I would mount the top of the lower section to the bottom of the base.
View attachment 3857797

Any recommendations on best method of mounting two things this heavy together while still accounting for wood movement?

sunnybob

· #12 · 7 mo ago

Build the base as a stand alone with a thin back board.
Build the cabinet as a stand alone with a thin back board.
Build a full length sturdy back.
Once on site, screw both sections to the strengthened back piece, which can be bolted to the wall.
Strongly recommend laminated glass to the customer.

Reactions: 1

CommonJoe

· #13 · 7 mo ago

Austin6 said:
Any recommendations on best method of mounting two things this heavy together while still accounting for wood movement?

Yeah, sorry, I didn't give much thought to wood movement. I live in such a dry area and build with a lot of plywood core material, I don't have many issues with wood movement.

bondogaposis

· #14 · 7 mo ago

You could save a lot of weight if you make the sides out of 4/4 instead of 6/4 and money too.

Austin6

Discussion Starter · #15 · 7 mo ago

CommonJoe said:
Yeah, sorry, I didn't give much thought to wood movement. I live in such a dry area and build with a lot of plywood core material, I don't have many issues with wood movement.

I tried to lobby for using veneer plywood for the panels but it was to no avail.

JCamp

· #16 · 7 mo ago

I would built two separate pieces and screw them together with at least 4 screws or bolts. They need to be hidden.. ish. Make them easy enough to find for the next time it is moved.
One tip, scoped rifles require extra distance from the back. Take that into account when you design it otherwise they won’t fit correctly.

Reactions: 1

Knockonit

· #17 · 7 mo ago

all the cabts i have built we make a spacer for the upper groove for scoped units, as for screwing it down, hmm, probably gonna be heavy enough to set there, might take a look at that, or if you felt the bottom for butt stocks, might put screws under the felt or pad, with a note or something, or use a clip on back, screwed to carcass of cabt base and upper, similar to a tab used on table top.
have to say, my bit 12 unit cabt upper is heavy enough i did not screw it down, my SIL, looked all over for screws when he took it home, i wasn't around them was out of country, but he fingered it out.
sounds like a great project, design and patience, will guide you to success
rj in az

Reactions: 1

rwe2156

· #18 · 7 mo ago

Austin6 said:
That is beautiful, how did you do the connection of top and bottom? I didn't want to use screws out of fear of splitting on wood movement. Awesome idea on going with acrylic for the door.

Thanks, there are runners on both sides so the top slides onto the bottom.

There are two screws to secure, which are under the pad on the bottom of the top part.

The guy who bought it didn't know I made a secret compartment in the top and I forgot about it for a couple months..

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Austin6

Discussion Starter · #19 · 7 mo ago

rwe2156 said:
Thanks, there are runners on both sides so the top slides onto the bottom.

There are two screws to secure, which are under the pad on the bottom of the top part.

The guy who bought it didn't know I made a secret compartment in the top and I forgot about it for a couple months..

View attachment 3857868

Okay, I'm sorry but I am 100% stealing this idea. That is literally genius.

Austin6

Discussion Starter · #20 · 7 mo ago

Knockonit said:
all the cabts i have built we make a spacer for the upper groove for scoped units, as for screwing it down, hmm, probably gonna be heavy enough to set there, might take a look at that, or if you felt the bottom for butt stocks, might put screws under the felt or pad, with a note or something, or use a clip on back, screwed to carcass of cabt base and upper, similar to a tab used on table top.
have to say, my bit 12 unit cabt upper is heavy enough i did not screw it down, my SIL, looked all over for screws when he took it home, i wasn't around them was out of country, but he fingered it out.
sounds like a great project, design and patience, will guide you to success
rj in az

Would you see any problem with screwing it together and wood movement?

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