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I just purchased a Grizzly G1023 on Saturday from the original owner. The saw is in great shape. The owner said he'd be surprised if had more than 30 hrs of cutting on the saw. This saw is replacing a Ryobi BT3100 that I've used for the past 10 years.

Gas Machine tool Machine Composite material Wood


Here's what I've done so far.

1.) A thorough cleaning, lubricated the trunnions and gears as i removed top to get inside. I reset the tension on the belts. I need to order new belts as i'm sure they are the original belts.

2.) Squared up the table to the blade.

3.) Repositioned the rails as far left as i could so i could increase my cutting width from 25" to 36". I ordered a new self adhesive tape to replace the old one.

4.) Made a motor enclosure from MDF on a temporary basis that's screwed into place. I will replace with a metal enclosure when i have more time that hinges open.

5.) Added a 4" dust port.

Here are my immediate plans this weekend….

1.) Make a riving knife (preferred) or splitter.

2.) Add support legs at the end of the rails to better support the table on it's current mobile base.

3.) Add a top to fill in the area between the left wing of the saw to the edge of the rail.

Future plans….

1.) Possibly replace the fence and rails with beisemeyer or like.

2.) If space starts becoming too tight, i will incorporate my router table into the table saw….something like this.

Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Gas


Let me know if there are other things I should do or consider for the new saw….other than making lots of dust :)
 

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I took my belt into a local KAMAN bearing supplier and they found a new one. Same thing with the bearings.

The bearings in my motor were noisy so i replaced them. As well as the arbor bearings. I would check both to be sure.

The bearings in both are very easy to replace if need be. I have the same saw. Is your's a right tilt?

I love it. Especially for the price i paid! 3hp of pure power. :]
 

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I wouldn't go to the auto store for belts. If you look at the ones on the saw, there should be something that gives you a clue as to their size. Search for that and you will find a lot of on line companies that specialize in belts and will have an exact match. What you get at an auto store may be close, but not close enough. If you choose to go with lnk belts, all this is moot. I used to think that link belts were bad ju-ju on a multi belt drive, but I actually talked to Fenner and they said it will work just fine. I'm not totally convinced (yet), but they sure are. One other thing about belts, if you have an industrial supplier nearby (Graingers, McMaster, places like that) or a power transmission supply business, they would be good choices.
 

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I took my belt into a local KAMAN bearing supplier and they found a new one. Same thing with the bearings.

The bearings in my motor were noisy so i replaced them. As well as the arbor bearings. I would check both to be sure.

The bearings in both are very easy to replace if need be. I have the same saw. Is your s a right tilt?

I love it. Especially for the price i paid! 3hp of pure power. :]

- lateralus819
Thanks…..it's a right tilt. the table saw is quiet after it take off. I noticed a little vibration when it start but i really believe its related to the belts as each belts seems to each have some variance in slack between them.

My steal was prolly equal to yours and I feel guilty for what i paid for. Plus, he threw in a 50' extension cord, a box of turning wood he had for his lathe, and a box of 80's wood working mags, binders, etc. I felt so honored to receive all his old stuff as i knew his wood working days had come to an end.
 

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I wouldn t go to the auto store for belts. If you look at the ones on the saw, there should be something that gives you a clue as to their size. Search for that and you will find a lot of on line companies that specialize in belts and will have an exact match. What you get at an auto store may be close, but not close enough. If you choose to go with lnk belts, all this is moot. I used to think that link belts were bad ju-ju on a multi belt drive, but I actually talked to Fenner and they said it will work just fine. I m not totally convinced (yet), but they sure are. One other thing about belts, if you have an industrial supplier nearby (Graingers, McMaster, places like that) or a power transmission supply business, they would be good choices.

- Fred Hargis
Thanks…....i live near a 500k city so those stores are available. In fact, a Grainger store is about 5 min. drive from where i work.

I have a high curiosity on linked belts as i heard nothing but good things about them too. At twice the price though I just want to make sure i don't look back. Not that price is the issue but the investment towards is what I value the most.
 

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I don't know if I'd jump to replacing that fence. While that is an older griz thats a good looking fence. I had the 1023slx for over 10 years and it served me well and that fence is the bessy style.

Run it for a while, and if it cuts good then go with it. If you want to replace, I'd look at the verysupercooltools one that is made with 80/20.

DC on my griz was ok, but not great, so you putting the cover on will help.

Get your belts from Griz direct, if it's the ribbed belts.

Good score! enjoy. I would still be using mine today, if I had not upgraded to a 5hp sawstop.
 

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I removed the belts last night and notice the belts are FM26 but Grizzly replacement calls out for the 3L250 - FM25? I ordered the cogged version of a 3L250 from Kaman and now i m wondering if i should reorder a 3L260 cogged version instead.

Anybody had this issue before?

- augster
UPDATE: called grizzly's tech support and they said a 3L260 would work too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My new belts won't be here until Monday so i placed the old belts on today so i make an extension top. i know this is premature until i get the new belts but notice the belts closest to the blade is tight compared to closet to the motor by a good amont and the middle belt is has half the slack. this doesn't seem right to me. Is this normal? If not, what should i check or do to fix it.

Also, curious on the design of only having one motor bolt and the pivot point with the cotter hairpins. it seems to have a certain amont of play. is this normal? It would seem to me that having motor boats on bothe side would keep the motor more parallel.
 

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My new belts won t be here until Monday so i placed the old belts on today so i make an extension top. i know this is premature until i get the new belts but notice the belts closest to the blade is tight compared to closet to the motor by a good amont and the middle belt is has half the slack. this doesn t seem right to me. Is this normal? If not, what should i check or do to fix it.

Also, curious on the design of only having one motor bolt and the pivot point with the cotter hairpins. it seems to have a certain amont of play. is this normal? It would seem to me that having motor boats on bothe side would keep the motor more parallel.

- augster
The belts on my Unisaw are like this too. And they are brand new NAPA Golds! They work just fine, nothing to sweat.
 

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I think I'd get rid of that 3 wheel stand. I have the same one under my old grizzly and it likes to tip a bit with large pieces. I can't imagine having it under my table saw. I guess you can solve that problem a bit by making the legs you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think I d get rid of that 3 wheel stand. I have the same one under my old grizzly and it likes to tip a bit with large pieces. I can t imagine having it under my table saw. I guess you can solve that problem a bit by making the legs you mentioned.

- firefighteronthesides
I don't like it either and seriously thinking of biting the bullet and making a new mobile base with wheels out the legs. I'm also thinking of buying a longer box tubing and angle iron to extend my rip capacity.

For those with longer rails, what length did you select and why? I originally thought a rip capacity of 48" but since i redoing might as well make it with no regrets.
 
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