Grizzly - G0771 Hybrid Table Saw (Rating: 4)

Thanks to everyone for their advice regarding my table saw choice. Now that I have it set up, I thought I'd share my observations and experience with it, hopefully this will help someone in their choice.

Delivery was reasonably quick (to CA), I purchased liftgate service and they brought the pallet into my garage for me. I feel sorry for whoever was receiving the pallet of Apple desktops I saw in the truck, a tall heavy package had toppled over and pierced about three of the boxes…

SETUP

Table flatness: 0.016" (which from what I read here is perfectly acceptable)
Arbor runout: 0.001"
Blade runout: 0.0025" (Forest Ply Veneer Worker 70T ATB Thin Kerf)
Blade // miter slot: 0.002" (0.007 factory)
Fence // miter slot: 0.003"

Setup was reasonably easy. One of the cast iron wings is slightly bowed in the middle and you can feel that it is higher than the table. It measured ~0.010 which is acceptable for table flatness from what I have read. The wings did not need shimming and are parallel with the main table across their length at the front and back. The bevel on the wings is about 1/16" smaller than the table, this isn't an issue, but it would have been nice if they matched.

When I originally measured the blade to miter slot parallelism it was around 0.007". After using the saw for a short time I checked it again and found that it had increased to 0.020". I discovered that the 4 bolts holding the table down were not loose, but definitely were not tightened down properly. I was able to get the parallelism down to 0.002" and tightened the table down.

I found that the blade shifts to the side by 0.007" when changing the direction of travel. Not sure if this is common or considered an issue, it does however stay in position throughout the whole range of travel. I took the measurement on the blade above the arbor, I should also check the front and rear of the blade to see what is going on.

I'm not a big fan of how the riving knife is adjusted. It's difficult to get parallel to the blade and very finicky. Not sure how this is done on other table saws but I think this could be improved.

ACCESSORIES

I ordered a Vega Pro 50 fence in anticipation of the issues I heard some people had with the standard fence and because I wanted extra rip capacity. Out of curiosity, I briefly set up the stock fence to see for myself. The front fence rail is a two piece unit, the ends were not cut well and needed filing to sit flush and parallel to each other. When moving the fence into the same position from the left and right it did locked down a couple of degrees either side of square. I didn't see any way to adjust for this so I moved on to setting up the Vega. If anyone wants to buy the stock fence PM me (located in Orange County, CA).

Getting the Vega set up parallel to the miter slot is tedious. The head is attached to the fence via 4 bolts which have to be loosened, the fence then tapped into place, and then the bolts tightened while hoping that it doesn't shift. I like the grub screws for adjustment I have seen in the head of Biesemeyer style fences. The front rail bolted up to the existing holes in the G0771 which was nice, however the measuring tape was slightly off at the limits of adjustability. This was easily fixed by removing the sticker with the red line on the measuring sight and marking it off center. I scored a line on both the top and bottom of the sight, then ran a sharpie over it to make the score lines visible. This reduced the parallax effect and makes it easier to position the fence accurately. The rear rail did not align with one of the holes in the table and required drilling a hole in the rail which wasn't a big deal.

The micro adjust feature of the Vega is nice, I find it useful when matching dimensions on non-consecutive cuts. One little criticism that doesn't affect functionality is the cover for the top of the fence is about 3/32 too short and slides back and forth in its slot.

So far I have to say that the Vega Pro 50 is a great product to use. It locks down repeatedly in the same position and is sturdy. Just for clarification (as I saw some comments that state otherwise), the rear rail is not used to lock the fence down. It is only used to stop the rear of the fence from lifting as well as providing a surface for the rubber stop on the underside of the fence to glide along.

The stock miter gauge has quite a bit of play when indexed to any position. I'm guessing min +/-1 degree. When locked down using the handle the is no play but it would need to be accurately set first.

OVERALL

I was a little surprised that Grizzly does not offer a zero clearance insert for this saw. I was going to make one, but I stumbled upon one at Woodcraft from Leecraft. The RG-5 insert is made for the Ridgid R4512 and costs ~$26. They also make the RG-6 without a riving knife slot.

Both handwheels had overspray in a few areas which doesn't really fit to the general good quality of this saw. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase and would likely get another Grizzly if I felt the need to upgrade. Power has been sufficient so far, however I haven't cut anything other than ¾ materials (ply, MDF and pine). With the upgraded fence I'm getting accurate and repeatable good quality (to me) cuts. I'm using a Forest Ply Veneer Worker 70T ATB Thin Kerfe.

Here's my original thread which shows a few bullet points about the pro's and con's I found of the saws I was looking at and the advice I received: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/132746