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Got my new Grizzly G0555 bandsaw today. Was very excited about it. Seems solid, well built! fit and finish are good. Screwed it all together cut a few things, seems good. I was even surprised it came with a Cast iron table.

Shipping box Gas Machine Service Fixture


First issue. You CAN NOT adjust the lower Blade bearing without taking off the Table. So if you have dialed everything in but have to switch bales you have to remove the table to gain access to the lower guide adjustment. This seems crazy on a seeming well engineered machine

The lowers can not be accessed unless you take the table off!

WTF?

I might ad assembly of this monster usually is a two man job. The main saw is almost 200 pounds. Of course me going to the gym everyday flipped it right up there, but it isa two man job… Or a pulley block and tackle thing. She's a heavy Bitch

That reminds me….

I have to call my chiropractor first thing tomorrow
 

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I can adjust mine just fine without removing the table. Try it with different hex keys or a T-handled one. That's what I use.
 

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I am sorry there seems to be no way to CLOSE the lower side bearings anywhere close to the blade on this saw. They seem to be set like an 8th of an inch away from the blade. They are nothing like the upper guides.

Any help?

- Garbanzolasvegas
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I think I may know what is going on. I pasted a photo from the owners manual of the UPPER assembly below to help explain a solution…...Each of the guide bearings are attached to a shaft that is eccentric… The issue may be that at the factory they assembled the Guide Bearings in the "UP" position…... Loosen Locking Cap Screw a fair amount, but not too much…...Then use the hex wrench and insert it into the left Guide Bearing Cap Screw and turn counterclockwise until the bearing rotates on the eccentric shaft downward…...Then use the hex wrench on the right Guide Bearing Cap Screw and rotate clockwise until the bearing rotates on the eccentric shaft downward…....By doing this this will lower both bearings against the blade and give clearance to adjust without removing the table in the future…...Once both bearings are lowered, then tighten the Locking Cap Screw until snug, then you will be able to fine turn the left and right bearing until they are perfect. Then tighten down the Locking Cap Screw. You may need two wrenches to prevent the bearings from moving. Insert one wrench into the bearing screw to hold it's position, then use the other to tighten the Locking Cap Screw…..
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Two men to set up this saw is a good idea but I did not have that option. I assembled the saw, with riser onto the stand with it all laying on the floor. I then grunted it upright. Although this was a few years ago when I was younger (seventy) I always take the cast iron table off of this saw when adjusting blade guides. It requires the removal of two plastic knobs, no big deal. I like this saw and use it mostly for re-sawing 6" & 8" maple oak and cedar.
 

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I can get my fingers in there just fine. A cruise sounds nice this time of year.

And the adjustments on the bearings are the same as the top. You loosen that socket cap bolt behind the 2 bearings, then you spin the socket cap bolts on the front of the bearings and it rotates them in and out.

Those knurled nuts that you circled control where the bearings are located by moving them forward and aft in relation to the blade. You loosen the thumb screws, and then just need to spin those knurled nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can get my fingers in there just fine. A cruise sounds nice this time of year.

And the adjustments on the bearings are the same as the top. You loosen that socket cap bolt behind the 2 bearings, then you spin the socket cap bolts on the front of the bearings and it rotates them in and out.

Those knurled nuts that you circled control where the bearings are located by moving them forward and aft in relation to the blade. You loosen the thumb screws, and then just need to spin those knurled nuts.

DAmn I need a video cam!

- jmartel
Yes I under stand but there is no way to get fingers in there without take the table off. PLUS there doesn't seem to be any way to MOVE the lower bears farther or close to the blade.

If one uses a 4mm allen wrench to CAM the lowers closer or farther to the blade the bolt simply loosen the bearing
 

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Rich,

Are you loosening all three bolts?

The wing nut and the knurl adjust distance front to back as mentioned.

The allen bolts adjust lateral position against the blade. One has to loosen the bolt on the side then one can camber the bearings by rotating the bolt in the center of the bearing. The bearing should move with the bolt, since you are also moving its mount.
 

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I see what you are talking about not being able to extend the bearing out any further. Something appears to not be lined up correctly. This is probably why you can't get your fingers in there also. The shaft that the bearing is on shouldn't be extended all the way out like that. It looks like you are at the end of your stroke and still not close enough to the blade.

Is your blade centered on the wheels?

Are you 100% positive the table is mounted correctly?

I recommend that you remove the table again and check if there is any way to adjust/move the entire blade guide assembly closer to the blade. Something is not right here. Hopefully it is a simple fix.
 

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A while back somebody in a thread recommended watching Alex Snodgrass' clinic on bandsaws:

After watching that video and then tuning my Grizzly bandsaw using those techniques, I won't go back to not removing the table. It's held on by two bolts and takes almost no time to take it off and put it back on. Yes, you do have to remove it, but I can view the bearings better that way anyhow.

I'd second the recommendation that somebody else had and watch the video. I followed Alex's steps and my saw runs much better now.
 

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I can get my fingers in there just fine. A cruise sounds nice this time of year.

And the adjustments on the bearings are the same as the top. You loosen that socket cap bolt behind the 2 bearings, then you spin the socket cap bolts on the front of the bearings and it rotates them in and out.

Those knurled nuts that you circled control where the bearings are located by moving them forward and aft in relation to the blade. You loosen the thumb screws, and then just need to spin those knurled nuts.

DAmn I need a video cam!

- jmartel

Yes I under stand but there is no way to get fingers in there without take the table off. PLUS there doesn t seem to be any way to MOVE the lower bears farther or close to the blade.

If one uses a 4mm allen wrench to CAM the lowers closer or farther to the blade the bolt simply loosen the bearing

- Garbanzolasvegas
Maybe I'll just take a video for you when I get home tonight to show. It's quite easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can get my fingers in there just fine. A cruise sounds nice this time of year.

And the adjustments on the bearings are the same as the top. You loosen that socket cap bolt behind the 2 bearings, then you spin the socket cap bolts on the front of the bearings and it rotates them in and out.

Those knurled nuts that you circled control where the bearings are located by moving them forward and aft in relation to the blade. You loosen the thumb screws, and then just need to spin those knurled nuts.

DAmn I need a video cam!

- jmartel

Yes I under stand but there is no way to get fingers in there without take the table off. PLUS there doesn t seem to be any way to MOVE the lower bears farther or close to the blade.

If one uses a 4mm allen wrench to CAM the lowers closer or farther to the blade the bolt simply loosen the bearing

- Garbanzolasvegas

Maybe I ll just take a video for you when I get home tonight to show. It s quite easy.

- jmartel
You know I just may do that tonight. Need to get liquored up first of course… Also, would it be woodworking
heresy to use my grizzly BS to quarter up a chicken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am sorry there seems to be no way to CLOSE the lower side bearings anywhere close to the blade on this saw. They seem to be set like an 8th of an inch away from the blade. They are nothing like the upper guides.

Any help?

- Garbanzolasvegas

v
v
I think I may know what is going on. I pasted a photo from the owners manual of the UPPER assembly below to help explain a solution…...Each of the guide bearings are attached to a shaft that is eccentric… The issue may be that at the factory they assembled the Guide Bearings in the "UP" position…... Loosen Locking Cap Screw a fair amount, but not too much…...Then use the hex wrench and insert it into the left Guide Bearing Cap Screw and turn counterclockwise until the bearing rotates on the eccentric shaft downward…...Then use the hex wrench on the right Guide Bearing Cap Screw and rotate clockwise until the bearing rotates on the eccentric shaft downward…....By doing this this will lower both bearings against the blade and give clearance to adjust without removing the table in the future…...Once both bearings are lowered, then tighten the Locking Cap Screw until snug, then you will be able to fine turn the left and right bearing until they are perfect. Then tighten down the Locking Cap Screw. You may need two wrenches to prevent the bearings from moving. Insert one wrench into the bearing screw to hold it s position, then use the other to tighten the Locking Cap Screw…..
v
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- kdc68
That is the UPPER GUIDE my issue is with the LOWER GUIDES
 

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