[TungOil]

Drawer Fabrication

With the top completed, I move on to fabricating and installing the drawers. The drawers on this sideboard are 42" wide and quite deep. I elected to use commercial Blum full extension HD drawer slides and 5/8" thick hard maple for the drawer sides. Combined with a 1/2" baltic birch bottom the set up should be strong yet still work smoothly.

I begin by preping some rough hard maple for the sides. Since the bottom drawer is is about 9-1/2" deep, which exceeds the width of my 8" jointer, I have to use the 'rabbet' trick to flatten the face of the board. Basically, I begin by cutting a 1/16" deep by 8" wide rabbet on one face of the board. This cleans up and flattens most of one side of the board- enough that I can flip the board over and place a 8" wide piece of MDF on the face of the rabbet and use a thickness planer to flatten the other side of the board. Once the opposite side is flattened, I can then flip the board and flatten the side with the rabbet.

The rest of the drawer build is straightforward. Plane to 5/8" thickness, cut to width and length. I cut grooves in the bottom of the drawer sides to accept the 1/2" thick drawer bottoms using a dado stack on the tablesaw. I cut through dovetails using my Keller dovetail jigs, then assemble everything, making sure the boxes stay square during the glue up.

The Blum slides require that I add some spacer strips to pack out the sides of the case flush with the opening. I fabricate the spacer strips from some Sapele scraps then glue them in place, holding them with a few nails from the nailer until the glue dries.

The drawer slides are screwed to the spacer strips and the drawer box hardware is installed. The drawer fronts are applied after the boxes have been installed.

The drawer fronts are a bookmatched pair cut from the same piece of Sapele.

By using the same sapele board for both drawers and the veneer for the doors, the finished piece will have better grain and color continuity when completed.

NEXT STEP: Fitting the doors

 

[WhattheChuck]

Drawer Fabrication

With the top completed, I move on to fabricating and installing the drawers. The drawers on this sideboard are 42" wide and quite deep. I elected to use commercial Blum full extension HD drawer slides and 5/8" thick hard maple for the drawer sides. Combined with a 1/2" baltic birch bottom the set up should be strong yet still work smoothly.

I begin by preping some rough hard maple for the sides. Since the bottom drawer is is about 9-1/2" deep, which exceeds the width of my 8" jointer, I have to use the 'rabbet' trick to flatten the face of the board. Basically, I begin by cutting a 1/16" deep by 8" wide rabbet on one face of the board. This cleans up and flattens most of one side of the board- enough that I can flip the board over and place a 8" wide piece of MDF on the face of the rabbet and use a thickness planer to flatten the other side of the board. Once the opposite side is flattened, I can then flip the board and flatten the side with the rabbet.

The rest of the drawer build is straightforward. Plane to 5/8" thickness, cut to width and length. I cut grooves in the bottom of the drawer sides to accept the 1/2" thick drawer bottoms using a dado stack on the tablesaw. I cut through dovetails using my Keller dovetail jigs, then assemble everything, making sure the boxes stay square during the glue up.

The Blum slides require that I add some spacer strips to pack out the sides of the case flush with the opening. I fabricate the spacer strips from some Sapele scraps then glue them in place, holding them with a few nails from the nailer until the glue dries.

The drawer slides are screwed to the spacer strips and the drawer box hardware is installed. The drawer fronts are applied after the boxes have been installed.

The drawer fronts are a bookmatched pair cut from the same piece of Sapele.

By using the same sapele board for both drawers and the veneer for the doors, the finished piece will have better grain and color continuity when completed.

NEXT STEP: Fitting the doors

Awesome!

 

[sras]

Drawer Fabrication

With the top completed, I move on to fabricating and installing the drawers. The drawers on this sideboard are 42" wide and quite deep. I elected to use commercial Blum full extension HD drawer slides and 5/8" thick hard maple for the drawer sides. Combined with a 1/2" baltic birch bottom the set up should be strong yet still work smoothly.

I begin by preping some rough hard maple for the sides. Since the bottom drawer is is about 9-1/2" deep, which exceeds the width of my 8" jointer, I have to use the 'rabbet' trick to flatten the face of the board. Basically, I begin by cutting a 1/16" deep by 8" wide rabbet on one face of the board. This cleans up and flattens most of one side of the board- enough that I can flip the board over and place a 8" wide piece of MDF on the face of the rabbet and use a thickness planer to flatten the other side of the board. Once the opposite side is flattened, I can then flip the board and flatten the side with the rabbet.

The rest of the drawer build is straightforward. Plane to 5/8" thickness, cut to width and length. I cut grooves in the bottom of the drawer sides to accept the 1/2" thick drawer bottoms using a dado stack on the tablesaw. I cut through dovetails using my Keller dovetail jigs, then assemble everything, making sure the boxes stay square during the glue up.

The Blum slides require that I add some spacer strips to pack out the sides of the case flush with the opening. I fabricate the spacer strips from some Sapele scraps then glue them in place, holding them with a few nails from the nailer until the glue dries.

The drawer slides are screwed to the spacer strips and the drawer box hardware is installed. The drawer fronts are applied after the boxes have been installed.

The drawer fronts are a bookmatched pair cut from the same piece of Sapele.

By using the same sapele board for both drawers and the veneer for the doors, the finished piece will have better grain and color continuity when completed.

NEXT STEP: Fitting the doors

Any news on this one?

 

[TungOil]

Drawer Fabrication

With the top completed, I move on to fabricating and installing the drawers. The drawers on this sideboard are 42" wide and quite deep. I elected to use commercial Blum full extension HD drawer slides and 5/8" thick hard maple for the drawer sides. Combined with a 1/2" baltic birch bottom the set up should be strong yet still work smoothly.

I begin by preping some rough hard maple for the sides. Since the bottom drawer is is about 9-1/2" deep, which exceeds the width of my 8" jointer, I have to use the 'rabbet' trick to flatten the face of the board. Basically, I begin by cutting a 1/16" deep by 8" wide rabbet on one face of the board. This cleans up and flattens most of one side of the board- enough that I can flip the board over and place a 8" wide piece of MDF on the face of the rabbet and use a thickness planer to flatten the other side of the board. Once the opposite side is flattened, I can then flip the board and flatten the side with the rabbet.

The rest of the drawer build is straightforward. Plane to 5/8" thickness, cut to width and length. I cut grooves in the bottom of the drawer sides to accept the 1/2" thick drawer bottoms using a dado stack on the tablesaw. I cut through dovetails using my Keller dovetail jigs, then assemble everything, making sure the boxes stay square during the glue up.

The Blum slides require that I add some spacer strips to pack out the sides of the case flush with the opening. I fabricate the spacer strips from some Sapele scraps then glue them in place, holding them with a few nails from the nailer until the glue dries.

The drawer slides are screwed to the spacer strips and the drawer box hardware is installed. The drawer fronts are applied after the boxes have been installed.

The drawer fronts are a bookmatched pair cut from the same piece of Sapele.

By using the same sapele board for both drawers and the veneer for the doors, the finished piece will have better grain and color continuity when completed.

NEXT STEP: Fitting the doors

I'm behind on posting updates, Steve. I'll put something up shortly.