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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Roughing It

The sapele has been in the shop for a week acclimating and my CNC cut templates will not be ready for a while, so I got busy roughing out parts. I started with the largest parts, the back legs. A leg blank 7 inches wide will allow me to cut both back legs for a chair from a single board, helping with grain and color match. Several of the boards were a bit over 14" wide, allowing me to get two pairs of legs from each cut length.

Rectangle Wood Floor Composite material Gas


To be sure I have spare material in case of an error, I cut enough parts for 14 chairs. I ripped the wide stock to 7" widths on the bandsaw, then joined one face and edge before planing to final thickness.

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Wood stain


As I started planing the stock to thickness, some internal compression damage was revealed on several pieces. All of the damage was located where the lumber had been stickered in the yard. In the image below you can still see some of the sticker stain next to the damaged area.

Wood Rectangle Table Slope Hardwood


I went back to the lumber pile to rough out some additional replacement boards. With these boards planed to thickness, they are as far as I can take them until I get the templates.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


Most of the damaged boards were salvaged later to make smaller parts such as the front legs (that's why we always start with the biggest parts first, right?). In some cases the grain was not running parallel to the edge of the board, requiring me to lay out the parts parallel to the grain and true up on the bandsaw and jointer. Truing up in this way helps avoid the diagonal grain seen in the top leg below, which will be used for setup only.

Grille Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Bumper


As I was working I kept a pair of diagonal cutters in my pocket to remove stray staples from the lumber yard. I don't cut the staples, but I find the diagonals get a good bite making them easier to remove.

Wood Natural material Composite material Tints and shades Brick


Next I roughed out the stock for the back slats. Ideally the center slat and two outside slats should come from the same board and be kept in sequence. It's going to be a real challenge to keep all of the parts properly labeled and oriented as I make these parts.

Brown Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor


With the two largest parts roughed out, I moved on to cutting the stock for the smaller parts. The crest rail and lower back seat rail are made from 8/4 stock. The side seat rails and front rail finish up at 7/8" thick so I will resaw the 8/4 stock to get two parts from each blank. The poplar blanks will be used as setup pieces.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The majority of the parts are rough cut at this point, with the exception of the lower stretcher components. These parts are small and can be easily cut from the drop offs left over from roughing out the main chair parts.

Outdoor bench Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle Art


Next step: Finish roughing out the remaining parts then joint and plane to size in preparation for pattern routing and sanding.
That's a good idea Earl, I need to pick up some sheet goods to make the routing fixtures for this project anyway, I should grab a sheet of MDF while I'm there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
nice progress,have fun buddy.
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
Just want to say that I love following your progress on these builds; it's nice to see the attention to detail and your learning process. It's clear you are very thoughtful and plan extremely well - the total opposite of me!

As someone who makes plenty of mistakes when building, I have gotten into the habit of making the largest parts first. Then, when I screw them up, they have the potential to be re-purposed for some of the smaller pieces.
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
What did I miss here, I thought you were going to pattern sand the parts? Change of heart?

I know the feeling of proceeding without many extra chair parts. Spooky.
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
I know what you mean about pattern-routing endgrain…..... I tried that once (and learned my lesson-never agin!) and in the process had the workpiece flung across the shop. Scared the hell out of me….......

From then on, endgrain is always shaped on the spindle sander. Which is what I thought you were going to do.

By the way, don't get timid now that you have little margin for error-I've found, if I'm too concerned about screwing up, I usually screw up. Just work as you normally do,
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
What did I miss here, I thought you were going to pattern sand the parts? Change of heart?

I know the feeling of proceeding without many extra chair parts. Spooky.

- pintodeluxe
Pinto- I plan to pattern sand only the parts that are too wide for the router/shaper (crest rails, lower seat rails and back slats). The narrow parts can be pattern routed so that is the faster way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
I know what you mean about pattern-routing endgrain…..... I tried that once (and learned my lesson-never agin!) and in the process had the workpiece flung across the shop. Scared the hell out of me….......

- Mean_Dean
I've had that happen as well, it's sobering to know how much force these tools can generate. Good reminder to keep body parts well clear of things that spin!

in this case I realized as I was taking the router bit out after I was done, that I had grabbed the down spiral bit by mistake instead of the up spiral. The down spiral, when table mounted, has a tendency to lift the workpiece, making it difficult to control around the end grain. Wish I had noticed it sooner!
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
That has to be frustrating to lose so many planks this soon. At least you have plenty of test pieces for the mortises…

Are you using double sided tape only when pattern routering? I've never been able to get the tape to stick well enough so I use a clamp sled to hold the pattern and the piece. How tall are the legs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
Are you using double sided tape only when pattern routering? I ve never been able to get the tape to stick well enough so I use a clamp sled to hold the pattern and the piece. How tall are the legs?

- EarlS
Earl, I'm using both double sided tape and my clamping sled, which has four De-Sta-Co clamps on it. I started using the double sided tape from MLCS about a year ago, I find it has really good holding power but I can still get it off the part fairly easily- much better than carpet tape. Legs are 43" long, which is longer than my 36" sled, so I need to reposition the leg several times to make the full cut. I'm using the tape to be sure the pattern doesn't move when I reposition.
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

Wood Office equipment Machine Box Automotive exterior


After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain


I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

Wood Machine tool Machine Gas Hardwood


While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Publication Flooring


After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

Wood Comfort Automotive design Flooring Beige


With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood Bumper


Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

Wood Outdoor furniture Automotive design Automotive exterior Hardwood


Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
I can't believe how much you're getting done between blog posts! These chairs are turning out great! The blog posts are very informative and make my mornings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
 

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18,919 Posts
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
damn tung you make feel lazy buddy-lol.im lovin the journey,lets go for a ride!
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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4,315 Posts
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
I'm worn out just reading all of the work you've accomplished. That is a lot of work that you've completed. Sounds like things are going smoothly as well.
 

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In Loving Memory
Joined
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8,391 Posts
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
I can already see that your meticulous efforts are going to result in some really fine chairs. I love the G&G style. Looking forward to seeing them finished.
 

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1,075 Posts
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
Yeah! This is better than Saturday morning cartoons!
 

Attachments

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Registered
Joined
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3,082 Posts
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
So much fun to follow along on this!
 

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Registered
Joined
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1,192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
Having a few days off work certainly helped with my progress.

The hardest parts are coming up next. The crest rails will be quite a bit of work, since they are curved and profiled. The back slats are going to be very challenging as well since they are also curved on all four sides and the ends have a compound miter cut and need to fit exactly.

After those parts are finished, the rest of the construction is actually pretty straightforward.
 

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Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
Looks like you're making some amazing progress!

So, how do you like routing your mortises, as opposed to using a dedicated mortising machine?

I have a mortising machine, but it tends to leave the mortises a little rough, which then need to be cleaned up. I like the idea of using a router, as it gives nice, clean mortises-but then you need to make all sorts of routing jigs. So you're sort of damned if you do, damned if you don't. Anyway, just curious what you think.
 

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Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

Table Furniture Desk Wood Pen


The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

Table Wood Milling Workbench Machine tool


The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

Wood Rectangle Gas Fixture Metal


First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

Table Furniture Cabinetry Wood Rectangle


Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

Table Wood Office equipment Desk Electronic instrument


The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

Wood Folk instrument Musical instrument Hardwood Machine


With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

Wood Toy airplane Flooring Floor Toy


The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

Wood Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

Drill Wood Power tool Machine Engineering


The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

Wood Wooden block Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Plank


To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

Wood Tool Hardwood Vehicle Flooring


The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

Wood Gas Composite material Saw Tool


The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

Tire Wheel Wood Vehicle Automotive tire


I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Plank Hardwood


So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
I love watching chair builds. Yours is right up there with the best I've seen.
 

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