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Marc Adams School, Day 4

Today I finished up the second tenon for the lower stretcher, then cut mortises with the Domino 500. This was my first time using the Domino. Once set up it's a fool-proof method for cutting the mortises.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Bench Hardwood


I did another quick dry assembly to be sure the lower stretcher parts fit together nicely.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Hardwood Flooring


With the lower stretcher out of the way, I start working on the curved back slats. The back slats will be assembled with dominos, have angled ends where they meet the apron and crest rail (compound angles in the case of the two smaller ones), are curved and have a profile cut.

I start with the center back slat. To get the angles for the ends correct and cut to the proper length, Bob Lang worked out a clever solution using what is basically an MDF story stick. I use a scrap of MDF and carefully transfer the angle from the dry assembled chair to the MDF and cut on the miter saw. I carefully trim away the MDF until the part matches my layout lines. Once I have the proper length worked out on the MDF scrap, I cut the angled ends into the real part in sapele.

Next I layout and bandsaw the curved faces. When the curves are complete, I temporarily tape the cutoff back in place and bandsaw the profile.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Hardwood Gas


I originally thought the crest rail was going to be the most work on this chair, but I was wrong. Clearly the back slats are going to be the most difficult part of this project.

Next step- cut the dominos for the center slat then make the side slats.
lookin good tung.the domino is definitely a cool tool,expensive but worth every penny for what it does.im also wondering why you used the wide setting? was this too allow for easier alignment during assembly?keep it comin.
 

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Marc Adams School, Day 4

Today I finished up the second tenon for the lower stretcher, then cut mortises with the Domino 500. This was my first time using the Domino. Once set up it's a fool-proof method for cutting the mortises.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Bench Hardwood


I did another quick dry assembly to be sure the lower stretcher parts fit together nicely.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Hardwood Flooring


With the lower stretcher out of the way, I start working on the curved back slats. The back slats will be assembled with dominos, have angled ends where they meet the apron and crest rail (compound angles in the case of the two smaller ones), are curved and have a profile cut.

I start with the center back slat. To get the angles for the ends correct and cut to the proper length, Bob Lang worked out a clever solution using what is basically an MDF story stick. I use a scrap of MDF and carefully transfer the angle from the dry assembled chair to the MDF and cut on the miter saw. I carefully trim away the MDF until the part matches my layout lines. Once I have the proper length worked out on the MDF scrap, I cut the angled ends into the real part in sapele.

Next I layout and bandsaw the curved faces. When the curves are complete, I temporarily tape the cutoff back in place and bandsaw the profile.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Hardwood Gas


I originally thought the crest rail was going to be the most work on this chair, but I was wrong. Clearly the back slats are going to be the most difficult part of this project.

Next step- cut the dominos for the center slat then make the side slats.
sounds like festool just sold another domino!-lol.im savin up for the big brother!
 

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Marc Adams School, Day 5

Today I finished up the center back slat by cutting the mortises for the dominos. Most of the mortises could be cut with the Domino machine, but the two mortises on the underside of the crest rail had to be cut by hand since the domino machine would not fit inside the opening. To cut these mortises I first drilled out the majority of the waste on the drill press then cleaned up the mortise with a chisel.

Wood Line Floor Wall Automotive exterior


With the mortises cut I tested the fit of the center back slat. It took quite a bit of fitting to get the mitered ends just right. I'm starting to see why the original chairs used housed mortises for these parts.

Wood Building Composite material Engineering Flooring


I moved on to the side slats. These slats are mirror images of each other and have a compound angle cut on the end. To make the layout more challenging, the slats are slightly angled to follow the curve of the crest rail. Once I was happy that I had established the correct compound angles for the cuts using a scrap of MDF, I then transferred the angles to the sapele for the cuts on the final parts.

With the final length established and cutting completed, I used the templates to lay out the curve and profile of each back slat. At the bandsaw I first cut the front and back curves, then taped the waste pieces back in place to cut the profile.

I brought the rough pieces to the edge sander to clean up the bandsawn edges, cut the domino mortises and did another dry assembly.

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I am very surprised at how much work it is to fit the back slats. Bringing together three curved pieces, two of which have compound angle end cuts and getting all of the joints to fit without any gaps is tedious work to say the least. But I'm very happy with the results so far.

Tomorrow is the last day of class. We will not have a full day but should get to routing the center back slat for the ebony bars and talk about installing the ebony plugs and cutting the final angle on the front legs.
tung this is one great magical mystery tour buddy,and I'm glad to be along for the ride!thank you for all the time you take to document this journey!
 

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Marc Adams School, Day 6

Today was the last day of class. Bob Lang covered several points on installing the ebony plugs and bars in the center back slat. Bob also did a detailed demonstration on techniques for doing the Greene & Greene style round overs, which have some nuance beyond simply running a quarter round bit over the exposed edges. Often the protruding corners on G&G furniture have an extra amount of rounding, almost giving the piece a worn appearance. It is s subtle detail that could go unnoticed if not pointed out.

Some of my class mates used the class made template to route the slots for the ebony bars in their back slat. I elected to pack up early and deal with the remaining work at home so I could get a head start on the 10 hour drive back to Pennsylvania.

Overall this was an awesome class. Bob did a great job bringing us through the fabrication and construction of the chair components and assembly process. His full size drawings and detailed instructions helped assure we were successful. Marc Adams runs a first class school. The facilities are well maintained with plenty of excellent equipment to work with. Even though we didn't finish our chairs during the 6 days, I really didn't expect that we would. There is simply too much work involved in a G&G piece to complete in such a short time frame.

Next step is to get started on the full set of twelve.
well tung I don't envie what lies ahead making all those chairs I do envie all the experience you gained this week and will carry with you the rest of your life.im sad for you ending this incredible journey you've takin us on and thank for taking the time time to do it my friend.take a rest and get back to work showing us what you've learned.thank you.
 

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Planning the Construction of 12 Chairs

Since returning from the Gamble House chair class at Marc Adams, I have been thinking through the construction process for a full set of 12 chairs. In the class, we performed many of the operations with hand tools which can be time consuming and lead to variation in the parts, especially across 12 chairs. We also used the Domino 500 for several of the joints, which I don't own.

One aspect of the project I have been pondering is cutting and cleaning up of the curves on the wide faces of the back seat apron, crest rails and back slats. In class, we roughed these in using the bandsaw, then cleaned them with various hand tools. I'm not very good with hand tools, so this is a very time consuming process for me that will lead to irregularity in the finished parts. As I spent time researching and thinking through various ways to machine cut these parts, I developed and then rejected several ways that I might accomplish this.

My first thought was to utilize my shaper to pattern cut the parts to templates. This is the same concept used when pattern routing parts, only with bigger tooling. The advantage of utilizing the shaper over a router for this operation is that the larger shaper cutters leave a much smoother finished surface when complete. My first thought was to simply stack rabbeting cutters, which would work but might lead to tear out issues since some of the cuts climb the grain slightly. I then investigated helical shaper cutters like the Byrd Shelix, which would leave a much smoother surface than a straight cutter but are costly. Ultimately I could not come up with a good way to cut all of my parts in a single pass since my shaper spindle is not tall enough. In addition, the shaper cutter required to cut such a large surface would be very dangerous to use, even with a sturdy sled. I abandoned the idea of pattern shaping.

As I browsed the internet for alternative ways to consistently shape these parts, I came across a few people that had adapted spindle sanders to follow patterns. The concept of bandsawing away the majority of the waste and abrasively cleaning the parts up to a template appealed to me as being a safe way to get consistent, smooth results for these large parts (albeit a bit slow). The 6" tall spindles also have sufficient reach to shape the entire face of my parts.

I decided to test the concept with a drill press mounted sanding drum before investing in a spindle sander. I bored a clearance hole in some scrap MDF slightly larger than the drum. After rounding the outside edge I had a quick and dirty pattern follower that will follow an offset template.

Brown Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


I attached a template to a scrap of sapele with some double sided tape. The template rides face down on the table, against the pattern follower. After a few minutes sanding, I had a well shaped part, offset slightly from the template, without the usual irregularity associated with freehand use of a spindle sander.

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Chair


With my concept proven, I stopped at Woodcraft to pick up a spindle sander. I need the tool in hand to get exact measurements of the sanding sleeves and throat plates so I can design my pattern follower and determine the offset for the templates.

Hat Tints and shades Composite material Cylinder Circle


The 2 inch sanding sleeves are actually 2-1/16 outside diameter. The opening in the plate is 2-3/8. I'd like to use a 1/4 inch offset for my templates so my pattern follower will need an outside diameter of 2-9/16. I can turn a follower on the lathe that will press into the opening in the plate. I ordered a short length of 2 inch ID x 2-3/4 inch OD UHMW-PE tubing from McMaster Carr to fabricate the pattern follower from, but it could be made from a piece of hardwood or plywood as well.

With my process for shaping the large parts worked out, I start working through the process flow for each part. With complex projects, I mentally work through the process steps to make each part, sketching as I go. I find that even rough sketches help me to visualize the proper order to do the operations to get the best result. As I sketch, I'm thinking through the templates I will need as well as any tooling or special materials and I note them along the side. By thinking through the steps I can identify errors in my process order that might make a later operation difficult or impossible, all before I cut any material. Here, I am working through the process steps to make the back legs and back seat apron.

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Next Steps: Fabricate a pattern follower for the spindle sander, finish developing my process flow diagrams and finalize the templates in CAD.
tung I think for speed and reproductivity ya gotta go with with a pattern and use a flush trim bit to achieve repettative pieces.ive kinda gotten a love for spiral bits buddy.they make clean cuts and do it fast!just my opinion!in my opinion spindle sanders are to clean up the cuts not make them!good luck buddy.
 

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Planning the Construction of 12 Chairs

Since returning from the Gamble House chair class at Marc Adams, I have been thinking through the construction process for a full set of 12 chairs. In the class, we performed many of the operations with hand tools which can be time consuming and lead to variation in the parts, especially across 12 chairs. We also used the Domino 500 for several of the joints, which I don't own.

One aspect of the project I have been pondering is cutting and cleaning up of the curves on the wide faces of the back seat apron, crest rails and back slats. In class, we roughed these in using the bandsaw, then cleaned them with various hand tools. I'm not very good with hand tools, so this is a very time consuming process for me that will lead to irregularity in the finished parts. As I spent time researching and thinking through various ways to machine cut these parts, I developed and then rejected several ways that I might accomplish this.

My first thought was to utilize my shaper to pattern cut the parts to templates. This is the same concept used when pattern routing parts, only with bigger tooling. The advantage of utilizing the shaper over a router for this operation is that the larger shaper cutters leave a much smoother finished surface when complete. My first thought was to simply stack rabbeting cutters, which would work but might lead to tear out issues since some of the cuts climb the grain slightly. I then investigated helical shaper cutters like the Byrd Shelix, which would leave a much smoother surface than a straight cutter but are costly. Ultimately I could not come up with a good way to cut all of my parts in a single pass since my shaper spindle is not tall enough. In addition, the shaper cutter required to cut such a large surface would be very dangerous to use, even with a sturdy sled. I abandoned the idea of pattern shaping.

As I browsed the internet for alternative ways to consistently shape these parts, I came across a few people that had adapted spindle sanders to follow patterns. The concept of bandsawing away the majority of the waste and abrasively cleaning the parts up to a template appealed to me as being a safe way to get consistent, smooth results for these large parts (albeit a bit slow). The 6" tall spindles also have sufficient reach to shape the entire face of my parts.

I decided to test the concept with a drill press mounted sanding drum before investing in a spindle sander. I bored a clearance hole in some scrap MDF slightly larger than the drum. After rounding the outside edge I had a quick and dirty pattern follower that will follow an offset template.

Brown Wood Flooring Wood stain Floor


I attached a template to a scrap of sapele with some double sided tape. The template rides face down on the table, against the pattern follower. After a few minutes sanding, I had a well shaped part, offset slightly from the template, without the usual irregularity associated with freehand use of a spindle sander.

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Chair


With my concept proven, I stopped at Woodcraft to pick up a spindle sander. I need the tool in hand to get exact measurements of the sanding sleeves and throat plates so I can design my pattern follower and determine the offset for the templates.

Hat Tints and shades Composite material Cylinder Circle


The 2 inch sanding sleeves are actually 2-1/16 outside diameter. The opening in the plate is 2-3/8. I'd like to use a 1/4 inch offset for my templates so my pattern follower will need an outside diameter of 2-9/16. I can turn a follower on the lathe that will press into the opening in the plate. I ordered a short length of 2 inch ID x 2-3/4 inch OD UHMW-PE tubing from McMaster Carr to fabricate the pattern follower from, but it could be made from a piece of hardwood or plywood as well.

With my process for shaping the large parts worked out, I start working through the process flow for each part. With complex projects, I mentally work through the process steps to make each part, sketching as I go. I find that even rough sketches help me to visualize the proper order to do the operations to get the best result. As I sketch, I'm thinking through the templates I will need as well as any tooling or special materials and I note them along the side. By thinking through the steps I can identify errors in my process order that might make a later operation difficult or impossible, all before I cut any material. Here, I am working through the process steps to make the back legs and back seat apron.

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Next Steps: Fabricate a pattern follower for the spindle sander, finish developing my process flow diagrams and finalize the templates in CAD.
tung I think for speed and reproductivity ya gotta go with with a pattern and use a flush trim bit to achieve repettative pieces.ive kinda gotten a love for spiral bits buddy.they make clean cuts and do it fast!just my opinion!in my opinion spindle sanders are to clean up the cuts not make them!good luck buddy.

- pottz

Agreed, too bad they don t make router bit that will produce a 5"cut! I will pattern route all the "low sides" of the parts with spiral bits. Cutting the wide faces is the issue. This photo shows the three parts in question- the center back slat is just under 5" wide at the base and the crest rail is nearly as large. The lower seat apron is 3-3/4" wide.

Wood Composite material Gas Hardwood Flooring


I don t have any equipment large enough to make that cut. I had hoped that I could cut most of it with a pattern setup on the shaper, then flip the part and use a top bearing setup following the cut I just made to finish it up, but my equipment just doesn t have the capacity.

- TungOil
I hear ya bud,5" not that i know of sorry.but where theres a will there will always be a way!let me what that will is buddy!-lol.good luck!
 

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Pattern Sander Setup and Bandsaw Upgrade

With my pattern sanding technique proven and a length of UHMW-PE tubing delivered I got to work making a bushing for the spindle sander. I roughed out a 1" piece of tubing to start.

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There is just enough clearance between the sanding drum and the table insert to fit a bushing. I turned the bushing on the lathe to a nice press into the existing table insert.

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The bushing provide a 1/4" offset from the sanding drum which will make design of the patterns easier.

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A nice property of UHMW-PE is that it is extremely low friction. This will allow the patterns to glide smoothly along the bushing and also facilitate insertion and removal of the bushing from the table plate.

The spindle sander project kept me busy while I was waiting on delivery of a new bandsaw. My trusty 12" Craftsman served me well over the years, but it was time to upgrade to something with more capacity for this project. Every part on these chairs is touched by the bandsaw except the two front legs and the small lower connecting stretcher. Some of the parts, like the center back slat, are 5 inches thick. A Bigger saw was definitely needed.

I researched a few options on bandsaws. I was looking for something larger than a 14" saw, but not so big that it would be difficult to get into my basement workshop or take up too much room. The Powermatic PM1500 was on my very short list, especially after working on one while at the Marc Adams school a few weeks ago. As luck would have it, SCM put the Minimax saws on sale right around the time that I called to get pricing, putting the MM16 in the same price range as the PM. With larger capacities nearly everywhere, including a 4.8 hp motor, the choice was pretty easy.

About a week after placing my order I received a call from the freight hauler that my crate was ready to pick up. The crate nearly filled my 8 foot utility trailer and had a shipping weight of nearly 800 lbs! I was starting to get worried about getting this thing into my shop.

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Luckily, the shipping crate was very substantial and accounted for about 200 lbs. of the weight. Even so, moving this saw was not going to be a 2 man job. With the help of my neighbors backhoe and some clever rigging we were able to lower it down my outside stairs into the shop.

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Next steps: clean and tune up the MM16, finish designing and order my routing templates in AutoCAD to be CNC cut and pick up another load of Sapele.
I just love the smell of new tools in the morning!nice addition to the shop, too bad they don't paint them like the old mini max s45 I have its the same color as Powermatic.there good tools or at least they used to be,enjoy your new toy tung.
 

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A Lumber Mill Run

The Sapele that I ordered arrived at Hearne Hardwoods earlier in the week. I need about 300 bf for this set of chairs. I can get all of the components for a single chair from one 8/4 board as long as it is at least 9" wide and 10' long, so I need at least 12 boards. Ed at Hearne brought in 400 bf of wide 8/4 quarter sawn Sapele for me to select my boards from. The boards are all 16-18 foot lengths, and 10"+ wide.

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At 16 to 18 feet long these boards are too big for my trailer and wood rack. I had the mill cut them to 11 foot lengths for easier transport and handling in the shop. At 11 feet they hang off my utility trailer a bit front and back.

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I also received the quote for the CNC cut templates, a very reasonable $345. The templates will be made from 1/2" MDF and should be ready in about 2-3 weeks.

While I wait for the templates, I will start roughing out my chair parts on the bandsaw.
looks like a load of fun to me tung.cant wait to follow your journey on this build,
 

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CNC Templates and Begin Back Leg Fabrication

My routing templates arrived Friday from the millwork shop so I headed out to pick them up. A few of the corners were damaged in transport, so I unwrapped everything to take a closer look.

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After inspecting the templates closely I was relieved to find that the damaged corners were all in non critical areas. It's a good thing I made my routing templates a bit long on the ends to have a little lead in.

Time to get to work. For this project, I plan to fabricate the back assembly first, then cut the angled side rails and finish up with the front assembly. By working in this order, I can adjust the length of the front rail to account for any errors that might accumulate during fabrication and be assured of tight fitting joints.

I start by laying out the back legs. I trace the full size template onto the leg blanks. For darker woods like walnut and sapele, I use a white fabric pencil for my layout lines for visibility. I cut enough parts for fourteen chairs leaving four extras in case of mistakes.

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I head to the bandsaw to rough out the back legs.

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While cutting out the blanks, I came across hidden checking on four of the parts. There goes all of my spares! Any mistakes going forward will require me to make more parts.

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After hardening the edge of the routing template with some thin CA Glue, I affix the template to the poplar set up piece and make a test cut at the router table.

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With my test blank completed, I moved on to pattern routing the legs. This is a large piece at 43 inches long and each part takes quite a while to pattern route.

This is a tricky cut, even with a spiral carbide cutter, due to the end grain and tight radius at the top of the leg. Not surprisingly I lost several parts while routing the top of the leg. Cutting against the grain, even with a spiral cutter, is always iffy.

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Since I have no spares left, I head back to the lumber rack and rough out several more blanks and pattern route replacements. After all the dust settled I end up with eight damaged leg blanks- four with checking and four damaged while routing. I'm down to a single spare leg at this point.

In preparation for laying out and cutting the mortises I arrange the legs on my shop cart, flipping then into pairs of right and left legs. Most of the leg pairs are matched from the same board, but due to the damaged pieces unfortunately not all of the legs could be matching pairs.

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Next steps- lay out and cut the mortises, then move on to the back seat rail.
nice progress,have fun buddy.
 

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Back Leg Mortises and Back Seat Rail

Now that the back legs are routed to shape, I move on to cutting the mortises. I start with the back seat rail mortises. The back seat rail sits flush with the inside of the back leg, so it makes sense to cut both mortises using the same setup to assure the parts fit perfectly flush.

I first lay out the mortise on the end of the back seat rail setup piece, which is made from poplar. The Leigh FMT jig only requires that the center of the mortise be marked with cross hairs, but as a double check I layout the full mortise to verify size and location along with the mortises for the back slats and the final profile of the rail.

Next I lay out the matching mortise on the leg and verify that everything is aligned correctly.

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The Leigh FMT jig is equipped with toggle clamps and a stop that, once setup, allow multiple parts to be made very quickly with perfect repeatability.

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The cross hairs that mark the center of the mortise are used in conjunction with the 'targeting sight' on the FMT to very accurately locate the center of the mortise.

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First, I cut all of the mortises on the ends of the back seat rails. All mortising is done before I bandsaw the back scalloped profile to provide large flat clamping surfaces.

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Next, I route the matching mortises in the back legs utilizing the same setup in the FMT, assuring a perfectly flush fit. Since the mortises are near the center of the back leg, I must use the extension feature of the FMT to create a stop with a scrap block of wood and a clamp.

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The legs are mortised in mirror image pairs, so two setups are required on the FMT to make sets of left and right legs.

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With the back seat rail mortises complete, I move on to creating the mortises for the crest rails. These mortises are cut at an angle into a curved section of the leg, so the FMT jig will not work easily for these mortises.

To solve this problem, I use a jig made from two CNC machined templates. Together they form a jig for routing the mortise. One template has an oversize slot that matches a router bushing. The other template has a leg shaped opening that positions the leg to properly mortise. This image shows the bottom of the jig with a leg fit in place, ready to be flipped over to route the mortise.

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The template is designed to be used for both the left and right hand legs by simply switching the locating template to the other side. After a little fine tuning of the opening in the template to allow my router bushing to clear smoothly, I cut all of the mortises.

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The remaining mortises on the back legs for the side seat rails and lower stretchers are parallel to the front face. These will be cut later.

Next I build a mortising jig to cut the four mortises on the top of the back seat rail that will be used for the back seat slats. Since two of these mortises are angled, the FMT would be difficult to use. I build the jig from a CNC cut template that locates all four mortises.

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The finished mortises are quick to cut using the jig.

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With all of the mortises cut in the back seat rail, I bandsaw the scalloped outer profile.

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To prepare for pattern sanding the profile, I assemble another jig using a toggle clamp and CNC cut template. The template mounts to the bottom of the jig and is 1/4" undersize to account for the pattern follower mounted on the spindle sander.

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The pattern sanding technique does a nice job cleaning up the bandsaw marks and developing the final shape on the rails. Due to the height of the part, the top 1/8" of the seat rail does not get sanded. It is easily cleaned up using a spiral pattern bit in the router table after the sanding is completed.

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The back seat rails are now ready for final sanding.

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I do a quick test fit to verify everything looks correct.

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So far so good!

Next step: fabricate the crest rails.
damn tung you make feel lazy buddy-lol.im lovin the journey,lets go for a ride!
 

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Crest Rails

The next component to be made is the crest rail. This part has a complex profile as well as a curved face and back, making it a bit more difficult to fabricate. I begin by laying out the part on all of the faces of my poplar setup piece.

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The order of operations is critical for this part to assure that everything comes out as accurate as possible.

I begin by cutting the mortises. The two mortises in the ends of the piece are easily done using the Leigh FMT jig, as are the two center mortises on the underside. The outer mortises on the underside are angled, so I use a CNC cut template to machine those.

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I decided to take my poplar setup part completely through the shaping process to vet out the proper order of operations. I started by roughing the concave curve using the bandsaw. I save the cut-off, as I will need it later. I then use a CNC cut template and the spindle sander to bring the concave face to final shape. The part is too tall to complete using the spindle sander, so I clean up the last 1/2" using a pattern bit in the router table. After the first curve is completed, I bandsaw the opposing curve, spindle sand and route that face. I now have the curved shape completed, ready to move on to shaping the profile. I tape the cutoffs from the bandsaw back in place on the part, then rough out the profile. I use a 5/8" Forstner bit to rough out the inside radii, while the rest of the profile is cut with the bandsaw and a saber saw to remove the waste from the hand hole. Another jig and template are used to pattern route the profile. The part looks good in the profile, but there is a problem- I bored the holes with the Forstner bit after I had cut and shaped the curve in the crest rail, with the cut-offs taped back in place. The clearance between the cut-offs and the part was large enough that there was some blow out on the back side of the part.

Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Hardwood Wood stain


Good thing I decided to take my setup piece completely through all of the fabrication steps before I moved on with my actual parts!

To eliminate the issue, I re-arranged the order of operations to put the boring of the holes first and tested the new order of operations on the next part.

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I rough the inside curve on the bandsaw, pattern sand and route the shape, then rough the outside curve.

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Mounted in the next jig, the part is ready for pattern sanding the outside curve.

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With the inside and outside curves completed (and no blow-out!), I tape the parts back together and rough out the profile using the bandsaw and saber saw.

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Mounted in the routing jig with the template, I pattern route the profile.

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The finished part looks nice, so I do a quick dry assembly to verify the fit is good.

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With the first part completed without any issues, I'm ready to move on to the next step: finish out the crest rails for the remaining 13 parts.
I goota take my hat of to ya tung,im working on a maloof rocker this week myself and I know what your going through-hell! but enjoyable hell.id blog mine but I'm afraid somewhere along the way I'm gonna f it up and be too embarrassed to show it.so I'm not given nothin till its done-lol.see ya at the finish line,whenever that might be-ha.
 

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Crest Rails

The next component to be made is the crest rail. This part has a complex profile as well as a curved face and back, making it a bit more difficult to fabricate. I begin by laying out the part on all of the faces of my poplar setup piece.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring


The order of operations is critical for this part to assure that everything comes out as accurate as possible.

I begin by cutting the mortises. The two mortises in the ends of the piece are easily done using the Leigh FMT jig, as are the two center mortises on the underside. The outer mortises on the underside are angled, so I use a CNC cut template to machine those.

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I decided to take my poplar setup part completely through the shaping process to vet out the proper order of operations. I started by roughing the concave curve using the bandsaw. I save the cut-off, as I will need it later. I then use a CNC cut template and the spindle sander to bring the concave face to final shape. The part is too tall to complete using the spindle sander, so I clean up the last 1/2" using a pattern bit in the router table. After the first curve is completed, I bandsaw the opposing curve, spindle sand and route that face. I now have the curved shape completed, ready to move on to shaping the profile. I tape the cutoffs from the bandsaw back in place on the part, then rough out the profile. I use a 5/8" Forstner bit to rough out the inside radii, while the rest of the profile is cut with the bandsaw and a saber saw to remove the waste from the hand hole. Another jig and template are used to pattern route the profile. The part looks good in the profile, but there is a problem- I bored the holes with the Forstner bit after I had cut and shaped the curve in the crest rail, with the cut-offs taped back in place. The clearance between the cut-offs and the part was large enough that there was some blow out on the back side of the part.

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Good thing I decided to take my setup piece completely through all of the fabrication steps before I moved on with my actual parts!

To eliminate the issue, I re-arranged the order of operations to put the boring of the holes first and tested the new order of operations on the next part.

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I rough the inside curve on the bandsaw, pattern sand and route the shape, then rough the outside curve.

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Mounted in the next jig, the part is ready for pattern sanding the outside curve.

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With the inside and outside curves completed (and no blow-out!), I tape the parts back together and rough out the profile using the bandsaw and saber saw.

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Mounted in the routing jig with the template, I pattern route the profile.

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The finished part looks nice, so I do a quick dry assembly to verify the fit is good.

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With the first part completed without any issues, I'm ready to move on to the next step: finish out the crest rails for the remaining 13 parts.
oh trust me I do plenty,this chair is kickin my ass,but teaching me plenty.maloof has always been one of my idols and to do an interpretation of his signature piece is on the top of my ww bucket list.this is one project I'm not rushing,so if it takes a month or a year I'm in no hurry.one screw up can take multiple hours to make a new piece so I'm going back and forth to the video instructions many times.all I can say tung is if you can do what your doing now the maloof will be breeze for you buddy.see ya at the finish line.
 

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Center Back Slat- Part 1

After finishing up the crest rails, I move on to the center back slats. I begin by making up the loose tenon stock I will need. After cutting the stock to width, I fine tune the thickness with the drum sander and add the rounded edges with a bullnose bit in the router table.

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I start by making a test center slat from poplar. I cut the angled ends and mortises while the stock still has straight edges. To determine the angles for the end cuts, I use a MDF story stick. By cutting the angles on the end of the story stick, I can sneak up on the correct length for the part. Using the side profile template, I mark the story stick to show the outline of the part.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Table Floor


I transfer the angles to the miter saw and trim the ends.

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After the end cuts are made, I set up the parts in the Leigh FMT and cut the mortises.

Wood Rectangle Audio equipment Hardwood Gadget


With the mortising complete, I move on to cutting the curves. First I rough cut the inside curve with the bandsaw. My original plan was to pattern sand the curves. I set up the pattern sanding jigs and did a test with my poplar set-up part. The sanding time was excessive, so I decided to go old school and broke out the spoke shaves to perform the preliminary cleanup work, then finished off the part on the belt sander.

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Once the curves are complete I tape the cutoffs back in place and band saw the profile. A few strokes with the spoke shave cleans up the edges. A float and some thin files clean up the 'V' cut in the bottom. The spoke shaves and floats work well to break the edges.

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A quick test shows the center slat fits nicely.

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With my poplar test piece completed, I move on to making the real parts. For the actual chair components, I rough out fourteen blanks 9 inches wide then rip 1-3/4 inches off either side.

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I make sure to keep the parts carefully labeled to maintain grain alignment for the finished chairs.

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I set aside the side slats for now to work on the center slats. Back at the miter saw I cut the angled ends. After cutting one side, I set up a stop block to assure all of the center slats are the same finished length.

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With all of the stock cut to length, I'm ready to move to the next step, cutting the mortises and curves.
this just inspires me to do more and be better buddy,thank you for taking the time to do these awesome project tutorials! fantastic work my friend.
 

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Center Back Slat- Part 1

After finishing up the crest rails, I move on to the center back slats. I begin by making up the loose tenon stock I will need. After cutting the stock to width, I fine tune the thickness with the drum sander and add the rounded edges with a bullnose bit in the router table.

Wood Flooring Floor Red Gas


I start by making a test center slat from poplar. I cut the angled ends and mortises while the stock still has straight edges. To determine the angles for the end cuts, I use a MDF story stick. By cutting the angles on the end of the story stick, I can sneak up on the correct length for the part. Using the side profile template, I mark the story stick to show the outline of the part.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Table Floor


I transfer the angles to the miter saw and trim the ends.

Automotive design Rim Bicycle part Automotive tire Engineering


After the end cuts are made, I set up the parts in the Leigh FMT and cut the mortises.

Wood Rectangle Audio equipment Hardwood Gadget


With the mortising complete, I move on to cutting the curves. First I rough cut the inside curve with the bandsaw. My original plan was to pattern sand the curves. I set up the pattern sanding jigs and did a test with my poplar set-up part. The sanding time was excessive, so I decided to go old school and broke out the spoke shaves to perform the preliminary cleanup work, then finished off the part on the belt sander.

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Wood Composite material


Once the curves are complete I tape the cutoffs back in place and band saw the profile. A few strokes with the spoke shave cleans up the edges. A float and some thin files clean up the 'V' cut in the bottom. The spoke shaves and floats work well to break the edges.

Table Wood Tool Machine tool Gas


A quick test shows the center slat fits nicely.

Wood Automotive exterior Floor Hardwood Wood stain


With my poplar test piece completed, I move on to making the real parts. For the actual chair components, I rough out fourteen blanks 9 inches wide then rip 1-3/4 inches off either side.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Brick Gas


I make sure to keep the parts carefully labeled to maintain grain alignment for the finished chairs.

Brown Rectangle Wood Material property Wood stain


I set aside the side slats for now to work on the center slats. Back at the miter saw I cut the angled ends. After cutting one side, I set up a stop block to assure all of the center slats are the same finished length.

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With all of the stock cut to length, I'm ready to move to the next step, cutting the mortises and curves.
tung you have more scrap left from one project than most guys have in there total wood supply-lol.
 

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Center Back Slat- Part 1

After finishing up the crest rails, I move on to the center back slats. I begin by making up the loose tenon stock I will need. After cutting the stock to width, I fine tune the thickness with the drum sander and add the rounded edges with a bullnose bit in the router table.

Wood Flooring Floor Red Gas


I start by making a test center slat from poplar. I cut the angled ends and mortises while the stock still has straight edges. To determine the angles for the end cuts, I use a MDF story stick. By cutting the angles on the end of the story stick, I can sneak up on the correct length for the part. Using the side profile template, I mark the story stick to show the outline of the part.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Table Floor


I transfer the angles to the miter saw and trim the ends.

Automotive design Rim Bicycle part Automotive tire Engineering


After the end cuts are made, I set up the parts in the Leigh FMT and cut the mortises.

Wood Rectangle Audio equipment Hardwood Gadget


With the mortising complete, I move on to cutting the curves. First I rough cut the inside curve with the bandsaw. My original plan was to pattern sand the curves. I set up the pattern sanding jigs and did a test with my poplar set-up part. The sanding time was excessive, so I decided to go old school and broke out the spoke shaves to perform the preliminary cleanup work, then finished off the part on the belt sander.

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Wood Composite material


Once the curves are complete I tape the cutoffs back in place and band saw the profile. A few strokes with the spoke shave cleans up the edges. A float and some thin files clean up the 'V' cut in the bottom. The spoke shaves and floats work well to break the edges.

Table Wood Tool Machine tool Gas


A quick test shows the center slat fits nicely.

Wood Automotive exterior Floor Hardwood Wood stain


With my poplar test piece completed, I move on to making the real parts. For the actual chair components, I rough out fourteen blanks 9 inches wide then rip 1-3/4 inches off either side.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Brick Gas


I make sure to keep the parts carefully labeled to maintain grain alignment for the finished chairs.

Brown Rectangle Wood Material property Wood stain


I set aside the side slats for now to work on the center slats. Back at the miter saw I cut the angled ends. After cutting one side, I set up a stop block to assure all of the center slats are the same finished length.

Saw Machine tool Electrical wiring Engineering Gas


With all of the stock cut to length, I'm ready to move to the next step, cutting the mortises and curves.
Looks like you re making some pretty good progress! I ve been enjoying this project so far!

As for your scraps, I d hate to see you burn them. I ve had some success selling my scraps on Craigslist, as pen-turning blanks, or other small-project pieces. Not only does selling them get them out of your shop, another woodworker gets some nice wood cheaply, and you get a few coins in your pocket to use on future projects.

- Mean_Dean

Not a bad idea, how big is a typical pen turning blank? I can probably cut about 1,000 of them from my scrap pile…....

- TungOil
</bloc> long-hundreds-ha.
 

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Center Back Slat- Part 1

After finishing up the crest rails, I move on to the center back slats. I begin by making up the loose tenon stock I will need. After cutting the stock to width, I fine tune the thickness with the drum sander and add the rounded edges with a bullnose bit in the router table.

Wood Flooring Floor Red Gas


I start by making a test center slat from poplar. I cut the angled ends and mortises while the stock still has straight edges. To determine the angles for the end cuts, I use a MDF story stick. By cutting the angles on the end of the story stick, I can sneak up on the correct length for the part. Using the side profile template, I mark the story stick to show the outline of the part.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Table Floor


I transfer the angles to the miter saw and trim the ends.

Automotive design Rim Bicycle part Automotive tire Engineering


After the end cuts are made, I set up the parts in the Leigh FMT and cut the mortises.

Wood Rectangle Audio equipment Hardwood Gadget


With the mortising complete, I move on to cutting the curves. First I rough cut the inside curve with the bandsaw. My original plan was to pattern sand the curves. I set up the pattern sanding jigs and did a test with my poplar set-up part. The sanding time was excessive, so I decided to go old school and broke out the spoke shaves to perform the preliminary cleanup work, then finished off the part on the belt sander.

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Wood Composite material


Once the curves are complete I tape the cutoffs back in place and band saw the profile. A few strokes with the spoke shave cleans up the edges. A float and some thin files clean up the 'V' cut in the bottom. The spoke shaves and floats work well to break the edges.

Table Wood Tool Machine tool Gas


A quick test shows the center slat fits nicely.

Wood Automotive exterior Floor Hardwood Wood stain


With my poplar test piece completed, I move on to making the real parts. For the actual chair components, I rough out fourteen blanks 9 inches wide then rip 1-3/4 inches off either side.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Brick Gas


I make sure to keep the parts carefully labeled to maintain grain alignment for the finished chairs.

Brown Rectangle Wood Material property Wood stain


I set aside the side slats for now to work on the center slats. Back at the miter saw I cut the angled ends. After cutting one side, I set up a stop block to assure all of the center slats are the same finished length.

Saw Machine tool Electrical wiring Engineering Gas


With all of the stock cut to length, I'm ready to move to the next step, cutting the mortises and curves.
pen blanks are about 3/4 square and 6" long,so yeah hundreds-ha.
 

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Shaping and Sanding

It's been a while since I posted an update on this project, largely because I spent most of the summer shaping and sanding. Pretty boring stuff but I thought I'd post a few progress pictures anyhow.

The top of the rear legs on the original chairs is quite heavily rounded. To approximate this look, I lay out the shape on the leg with a white pencil. I mark the centerline of the leg as well as the curve on both sides so I have a reference line to work to.

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The round over is shaped with various floats and progressively finer rasps.

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Completed batch.

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The bottom of the legs are shaped as well, but just a slight round over.

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The bottoms of the rails and most other parts get rounded over and softened as well. The original G&G pieces all have a 'worn soft' shape that is subtle but really helps complete the look. It's also time consuming to reproduce.

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Cleaning up the bandsaw marks on the tapered slot in the center back splat proved to be a challenge. Luckily I had a very thin file that fit at the narrowest point.

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The rest of the parts were shaped similarly, using spokeshaves, rasps and files. Figuring out how to hold these parts was half the challenge. My old benchtop Workmate with a Kreg self adjusting clamp was a big help.

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Before and after shaping and sanding the back splats.

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After that just a lot of boring sanding. I went through quite a few disks on the ROS sanding these parts.

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A very large pile of parts, almost ready for assembly.

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Next step: cut the pockets for the ebony splines in the center back splats.
wow im tiered just looking at these pics buddy,all that shaping and sanding.your work always inspires me,your a true craftsman,great job as always.
 

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Chair Assembly

I do the chair glue up in several stages. First, I glue up the front legs and rail into one sub-assembly.

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Since the outside edge of the front leg is angled to match the side rail, I use wedges on my clamping pads to apply even clamping pressure.

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Next I glue up the back legs, rail, splats and crest rail into a second sub-assembly. There are twelve loose tenons to glue and seven parts to align. I have to work fast to get the back sub-assembly aligned and clamped up before the glue sets.

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I set these aside to dry overnight. The next day I bring the sub-assemblies together with the side rails and lower stretcher assembly. To assure a good clamp up of the angled sides, I cut a complimentary angle in some scrap wood cauls and mark the centerlines for the clamps.

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I leave the chair assembly clamped overnight to dry.

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While the chair assembly is drying, I fabricate the ebony plugs. To make the plugs, I mount the square ebony stock in the lathe using a four jaw chuck. A few swipes with a smooth mill file pillows the end of the plug, followed by a quick sanding with a 400 grit sanding sponge. I cut the plug to length, then chamfer the inside corners on the belt sander.

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After the chair is dry, I remove the clamps and insert the the ebony plugs and splines. I use a bamboo skewer to apply glue to the inside of the plug holes.

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I set the depth of the plugs using a block of hard maple with a shallow dado.

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The splines are installed in a similar way. A few dabs of glue hold the spline in place.
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I set the splines flush to the face of the splat. Each spline has a pillowed face.

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The chairs are glued up, ready for corner blocks and slip seats.

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Projects this size remind me why a shop can never be too large.

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Next steps: fabricate and install corner blocks and slip seats.
after doing a g&g hall table i know how much work that went into this project and my head hurts-lol.nice step by step tutorial tung.nice work on the plugs and splines those came out great.im exhausted just looking at this buddy.
 

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Chair Assembly

I do the chair glue up in several stages. First, I glue up the front legs and rail into one sub-assembly.

Wood Gas Hardwood Composite material Auto part


Since the outside edge of the front leg is angled to match the side rail, I use wedges on my clamping pads to apply even clamping pressure.

Rectangle Wood Publication Linens Flooring


Next I glue up the back legs, rail, splats and crest rail into a second sub-assembly. There are twelve loose tenons to glue and seven parts to align. I have to work fast to get the back sub-assembly aligned and clamped up before the glue sets.

Table Wood Tool Automotive exterior Desk


I set these aside to dry overnight. The next day I bring the sub-assemblies together with the side rails and lower stretcher assembly. To assure a good clamp up of the angled sides, I cut a complimentary angle in some scrap wood cauls and mark the centerlines for the clamps.

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I leave the chair assembly clamped overnight to dry.

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While the chair assembly is drying, I fabricate the ebony plugs. To make the plugs, I mount the square ebony stock in the lathe using a four jaw chuck. A few swipes with a smooth mill file pillows the end of the plug, followed by a quick sanding with a 400 grit sanding sponge. I cut the plug to length, then chamfer the inside corners on the belt sander.

Wood Sculpture Art Metal Helmet


After the chair is dry, I remove the clamps and insert the the ebony plugs and splines. I use a bamboo skewer to apply glue to the inside of the plug holes.

Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Paint Rectangle


I set the depth of the plugs using a block of hard maple with a shallow dado.

Furniture Table Wood Rectangle Grey


The splines are installed in a similar way. A few dabs of glue hold the spline in place.
Watch Wood Rectangle Flooring Font


I set the splines flush to the face of the splat. Each spline has a pillowed face.

Wood Rectangle Grey Floor Flooring


The chairs are glued up, ready for corner blocks and slip seats.

Wood Interior design Floor Flooring Wood stain


Projects this size remind me why a shop can never be too large.

Chair Wood Art Flooring Hardwood


Next steps: fabricate and install corner blocks and slip seats.
Judging from your photo I am surprised you could build anything let alone Green & Green style chairs, but you obviously aced it. Great work. I love that style of furniture. Unfortunately my wife doesn t, so I can t go there, but at least I can enjoy seeing the good ones like yours.

- stefang

Yeah the foam hands and lack of opposable thumbs makes it difficult at times. On the flip side, I never mar a finely sanded surface!

I didn't give my wife any choice. If I did, we would have wound up with some boring milk painted country pine, or worse….

- TungOil
i think she's gotta agree what your doing beats that choice any day.
 

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Chair Assembly

I do the chair glue up in several stages. First, I glue up the front legs and rail into one sub-assembly.



Since the outside edge of the front leg is angled to match the side rail, I use wedges on my clamping pads to apply even clamping pressure.



Next I glue up the back legs, rail, splats and crest rail into a second sub-assembly. There are twelve loose tenons to glue and seven parts to align. I have to work fast to get the back sub-assembly aligned and clamped up before the glue sets.



I set these aside to dry overnight. The next day I bring the sub-assemblies together with the side rails and lower stretcher assembly. To assure a good clamp up of the angled sides, I cut a complimentary angle in some scrap wood cauls and mark the centerlines for the clamps.



I leave the chair assembly clamped overnight to dry.



While the chair assembly is drying, I fabricate the ebony plugs. To make the plugs, I mount the square ebony stock in the lathe using a four jaw chuck. A few swipes with a smooth mill file pillows the end of the plug, followed by a quick sanding with a 400 grit sanding sponge. I cut the plug to length, then chamfer the inside corners on the belt sander.



After the chair is dry, I remove the clamps and insert the the ebony plugs and splines. I use a bamboo skewer to apply glue to the inside of the plug holes.



I set the depth of the plugs using a block of hard maple with a shallow dado.



The splines are installed in a similar way. A few dabs of glue hold the spline in place.


I set the splines flush to the face of the splat. Each spline has a pillowed face.



The chairs are glued up, ready for corner blocks and slip seats.



Projects this size remind me why a shop can never be too large.



Next steps: fabricate and install corner blocks and slip seats.
Judging from your photo I am surprised you could build anything let alone Green & Green style chairs, but you obviously aced it. Great work. I love that style of furniture. Unfortunately my wife doesn t, so I can t go there, but at least I can enjoy seeing the good ones like yours.

- stefang

Yeah the foam hands and lack of opposable thumbs makes it difficult at times. On the flip side, I never mar a finely sanded surface!

I didn't give my wife any choice. If I did, we would have wound up with some boring milk painted country pine, or worse….

- TungOil

i think she s gotta agree what your doing beats that choice any day.

- pottz

Ha! You obviously have never met my wife

- TungOil
sounds like mine bill-lol.
 

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